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JeTexas

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Everything posted by JeTexas

  1. I would try to calibrate the top once you get the ram re-installed and see if that cures things before you start messing with the clamshell motor. The entire top mechanism is very dependent on timing and microswitches. If one thing is off, it won't start moving the next piece. You can also check the clamshell's position sensor, which is right by the hydraulic release nut.
  2. What is strange is that it does the surging while just cruising, not when the car is in need of a shift. I can go to manuel tiptronic and force it to stay in a gear at that rpm and it still surges. Would this still possibly be the torque converter? It also does it in all the gears as long as it is that particular rpm range. It does get worse as it is pulling a hill. Yes, that is the torque converter.
  3. I agree that this sounds like a torque converter problem. When they are failing, the transmission will still make its shift, but the torque converter will make your RPMs wander up and down causing the car surge under normal acceleration.
  4. Just an update. I'd been driving with the traction control off for the past year to remedy the idle issue. I was very paranoid that when I finally bought new tires, the issue would remain and that the problem would be in my electronics somewhere. I bought new tires last weekend and got the correct 265/35ZR18 rears. The issue is completely gone, and everything is working perfectly.
  5. I passed 136,000 miles a couple weeks ago. Original engine and transmission are still running strong.
  6. The tension cable going across the car from side to side is probably bound up in the sleeve. It happens on my car every once in a while. Open the top halfway to take the tension off, and you can fiddle with it until the top sits flat again.
  7. Unplug the amp and jumper the cables. If the sound remains the same, you know it's the amp.
  8. I think you're looking for the air-oil seperator. Also check the oil filler neck because it can crack and cause a vacuum leak that will give you an extremely high idle.
  9. Not to be insulting, but have you tried adjusting the left/right fader? If you set it completely to the weak side, is there static in the music or is it just soft? To me, static would indicate a loose wire or dirty connection whereas if it's just soft, you may only be getting line level signal through the amp instead of an amplified feed. Good luck.
  10. The week before Thanksgiving I got nailed doing 104 mph on my way to El Paso. There's pretty much nothing but ranches and windmills between San Antonio and El Paso, so the speed limit is already 80 mph, and generally in the states, if you're doing less than 25 over the speed limit you can drop the ticket with a defensive driving course. Apparently that only applies if you're doing less than 90 mph. It cost me about $300, but thankfully here in Texas they don't take your license away. The officer was nice enough, but I didn't have the balls to ask for a photo of the radar gun. lol
  11. When mine went out, I got a rebuilt pump from NAPA. It was creaking and leaking within 6 months. Like yours, I was able to replace mine under warranty, but it was a hassle. I won't stray from OEM on waterpumps again.
  12. Don't use vaseline. The best is silicone grease. It's also know as dielectric grease. You can get it in tubes or in spray bottles at the auto parts store. I wipe mine down with a damp towel to remove the grime, then once they're dry, I'll slather them up with the thicker silicone grease that comes in a tube. I'll let it sit overnight, and then I'll wipe it down to remove the excess. I do that about every six months to keep them from squeaking or sticking.
  13. At age 30, I bought a 9-year-old 996. Now I'm 32, the car is 11, and we're at 127,000 miles - almost 50,000 of those spent together.
  14. When I bought my car, I paid an independant $120 to give the car a thorough inspection. I then used his checklist to have the seller agree to fix the airbag light seatbelt ground issue as well as a leaky motor mount along with some other odds and ends. If the car is out of warranty, I figure the best you can hope for with an inspection is to warn you of any giant mechanical issues you may have not noticed and to give you some bargaining leverage on pricing.
  15. It's a consumer protection law. As someone mentioned before, tons of cars in the area get flooded after hurricanes. Lots of them are easy to get running again, but the long term damage from being dunked in water causes major problems down the road. In this case it seems like a shame because it's an expensive specialty car, which all of us here have a love affair with, but for this one 911, there's probably 100 ruined Ford Focuses that would have been sold to unwary buyers had the law not been in place. The effectiveness of the law is debatable, but I believe that was the intention when it was put on the books.
  16. It could have been the Mass Airflow Sensor being touchy or a stuck Secondary Injection Valve solenoid that unstuck itself.
  17. Actually, I just noticed you're in Houston. I can read the codes for you this weekend. Shoot me a message or email if you want to set something up.
  18. It's most likely your emmissions system. The EGR valve or whatever it is that Porsche calls it. If that's the case, then yeah, you're ok to drive it for a while. HOWEVER, until you read the codes, you won't know for sure, so read the codes first and report back here.
  19. Some early 996 models have issues with second gear. After some wear it will develop a tendency to pop-out of gear. In my opinion, this excessive wear/damage is generally caused by drivers shifting into second at speeds below 20 mph. Other than that, as far as I know the manual transmissions will last forever (not including the clutch, of course, which is a part designed to wear out). I have 125,000 miles on mine with no issues.
  20. If the waterpump was not evenly torqued it could have loosened and the seal finally gave way. I torque them in a star pattern and go around two or three times. Other than that, I don't know.
  21. The more I look at it and the way the headlight is sitting, I don't think it's the headlight tray that's broken. I think it's the inner fender assembly that the bumper and headlight trays attach to. I don't know how much that piece costs, but replacing it is going to take a lot of disassembly/reassembly and be a pain in the ***. Add in the cost of at least an alignment, more likely a bent control arm. Even if you fix the cosmetics, if you don't fix the suspension it will eat through a tire every couple of months, and Porsche tires are not cheap.
  22. Ask the tech to "recalibrate" the top. It's a diagnostic sequence that determines the range of motion and position of each sensor/switch and resets them to work in the correct order. Are the little wing flaps moving? They have to change position before the lid can close. One of them might be freezing on its worm drive, which then stops the rear deck.
  23. Used bumpers are easy to come by as many people replace them with aftermarket kits. I'd say $200 for the bumper. $500 for paint. It's also questionable as to whether or not the bracket the bumper bolts to would have to be replaced. It looks bent up. No idea on the price for that. That is the A/C condensor that is dented up and leaking. The radiator behind it is most likely damaged as well. Probably $300 for the radiator, $150 for the condensor. Another $40 for the A/C dryer. Probably another $100 - $200 to have the system put under vacuum and recharged. You'd also need a corner reflector for the headlight and a new rim. $40 for the reflector. Not sure on the wheel. Probably $200 depending what you can find to match. Then there's the question of whether or not the suspension and frame were damaged. Impossible to tell without inspecting underneath. Remember, adding up those numbers that you can probably double it to account for labor costs.
  24. Yes, I'd go peruse the parts store to find the thinnest hose clamp possible. That would probably solve your drip. I tried to open my coolant drain plug once, and it wasn't budging, so I usually end up draining it by pulling the hose off the thermostat housing. It usually ends up making a mess.
  25. Oh, and you need a skinny hose clamp on that radiator outlet. The fatter ones hit the flare and won't seal.
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