Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

soopster

Members
  • Posts

    61
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by soopster

  1. Well I still think 5k is better spent on a vacation ! Didn't know they had that many different intensities. Even though I majored in Physics at first for University, I still think light is just light. Have fun! It's just spring up here, so the Boxsters are just starting to come out ...
  2. Short shifter upgrade was the first mod I did to mine when I got it. The throw is shorter (hence the name ) but it is also a little tighter. I had it done at the dealer and I believe it was a re-branded B&M shifter. From what I read, it's not a hard DIY, probably moderate level if you are inclined and have the time. I really like the feeling of the short shift kit. The next mod was the clear front side markers and clear/red tail lights. Dead easy. Perhaps an hour for all four with 75% time fooling around. The HID lights are nice but 5K seems like a lot of money for lights, perhaps the short shift kit and a Mediterranean / Carribean cruise.
  3. I have an '02 Boxster base with about 50K miles on it (80K km). I get the reported problems with engine mounts: vibration down-reving at 3000 and trouble shifting especially 1st to 2nd. So I suspect the engine mount and will be bringing in to a shop to get a new engine mount in the next few weeks. Any opinions on whether I should get just the engine mount replaced or engine mounts & transmissions mounts replaced? I would sooner not spend the extra bucks on the transmission mounts but also don't want to make two trips to the shop.
  4. This is what I do when the car gets into this mode: Put the key in the driver door lock, turn the key to unlock (do not lift handle), pull key out of the lock, press the unlock button on the remote. Open the door. Everything works fine after that. BostonBoxster seems to say he is leaving the key in the lock while pressing the unlock button, perhaps that works as well.
  5. Bostonboxster, I don't think your issue has anything to do with the cold. It sounds like a normal "feature". This happens when you don't drive the Boxster for more than a week at all times of the year. The exact rationale is probably in the manual but I think it's a battery saving mode. When you don't use the car for more than a week it stops recognizing the remote. You just unlock the door with your key (but do not open the door) and then press the unlock button on the remote. If you open the door without pressing the unlock button first, you will set off the alarm but still has the same affect. Good luck with the new ride. Mine is stored away under cover for the winter as well. :( If you are seeing the red light flashing on your remote, I doubt it's the battery.
  6. What's everyone's opinion on the auto-dimming mirrors? I have one in my BMW and absolutely hate it. It dims too dark and at the wrong times. If I get a car coming up quick on my behind at night, it dims and I can't see anything else behind me. I know the solution is to stomp on the gas so this doesn't happen :P but I actually would prefer a manual switch.
  7. That sounds pretty high. In comparison to an engine mount replacement, which seems to be a more painful repair by the comments on this board, a local P dealer in Toronto quoted me just under $500 CAD part and labour for the engine mount. I can't imagine the transmission mounts would require $1700 in labour alone.
  8. Thanks to you guys I just installed the sills that are the subject of this thread without the "gap" problem. The instructions above were very helpful. I'll only add that the allen bolts on the driver's side are 5mm and only have to be loosened a few turns, rather than removed for the plastic parts housing to slide upward. The Bentley manual actually said to remove the seat to do this which is completey unnecessary. These sills are just what I wanted.....to blend in and look like they came form the factory (which they sorta did!). Bob I finally got around to installing my sill covers (one year after ordering them). Actually I found this thread again and that reminded me. :D Thanks Bob, for this final post. I couldn't get the driver's side switch cover off until I read your post that it's a 5 mm allen key. Unless you know that and to only turn it a few turns to loosen and you know to slide the cover up; you sit there scratching your head how to do this wondering if you are going to break something. I still had to pry with some force to get the covers off though, even after the allen bolt and torx screws but this was the first time removing the covers after the factory I assume. I agree taking the seat out is not necessary, just move it forward for the back one and back for the front one. They look great ... shoulda done this a year ago.
  9. Not sure whether it helps though! Sounds like he is in Newfoundland, which is about 2000 miles away! That would be too far to go at lunch next week. B) Thanks for the contact. I sent him an email.
  10. Thanks Loren. I searched first but missed that thread. The trick with searching I guess is knowing what to search on. :huh: That helps greatly!
  11. What's involved in replacing the clock adjustment knob. It's the knob located at the top of the console between the tachometer and the temperature gauge. I was quickly cleaning my the interior the other night (in the dark of course, since I left it to the last minute). When I was wiping the top of the console the cloth caught on the knob and snapped it off. Is it a relatively straight forward replacement (I doubt it) or is it something you plan to dedicate the day to? Thanks.
  12. I had the same comment when I first bought mine with a stock shifter. I had the dealership put in a Porsche short shifter, which I believe is a rebranded B&M. I love the feel of short shifter. The play is gone and the shift is much stiffer and obviously shorter. Good luck!
  13. Replacing the engine mount (there is only one aka front engine mount) is about a $500 CAD job in Canada including parts at a Porsche dealer. That should give you a ball park on the cost in Australia.
  14. Take a look at Pedro's article on replacing the engine mount. Describes the symptoms as well. Pretty much what I am feeling and what I outlined above. http://www.pedrosgarage.com/Site_3/Install...gine_Mount.html
  15. Symptoms that I have heard from a failed engine mount include: vibration particularily around 3000 RPM when decelerating, trouble shifting in manual transmissions and a clunk as engine moves upon shifting/turning. When I let off the gas and the car goes through 3000 RPM I get a low vibration from behind me. I also have a notchy feeling when trying to shift, especially between 1st to 2nd, it can stick significantly but not always. I will be replacing the engine mount in September, so will let everyone know if those two problems get better. I could be wrong but from what I've researched my understanding is that the Boxster engine mount is not hydraulic (ie. no liquid, oil etc). The two transmission mounts are hydraulic though. The engine mount looks to be simply rubber. Pedro has a version that is filled with a resin around the rubber that people seem to like better for the track but does generate more vibration. I will be going for the stock part since my racing is restricted to getting to the coffee shop in the morning on the way to work.
  16. The Porsche Club of America magazine (Panorama) had a good article on buying a Boxster in an issue from earlier this year. Provides a good overview of the model years and what to look for. I believe this is the full article: http://www.pca.org/Panorama/HowToBuyAPorsc...ngaBoxster.aspx Now that I look at who is asking, you may already know all of this. It's pretty basic stuff if you know Boxsters already.
  17. Is the grinding coming from the transmission (behind you) or from the base of the shifter? Does it always grind or just sometimes. An earlier post suggested looking at the engine mount. If it's heavily worn or blown out, it can cause the engine to sometimes shift slightly and make it so that shifting is not smooth. On mine, I suspect my engine mount needs replacing. Shifting is occaisionally smooth as silk but most often notchy, especially upshift between 1st and 2nd. I get a slight grinding feeling/sound when I try to shift fast between first and second but it comes from the base of the shifter not from the transmission. That will be my September expense on the car (my wife is still recovering from new tires in the spring). Just another possibility to look at (and less scary).
  18. Is it only when the Boxster is cold. Is it more extended than a quick chirp? I saved this post from a while back since mine does the whining as well: Originally Posted by ppbon Most likely it was the secondary air system. When the car is cold, in order to meet exhaust emissions regs, the car will run a secondary air pump which injects air into the system. It's located next to the passenger's air vent and sometimes can whine. Once the car warms up the pump shuts off. Happy Boxstering, Pedro
  19. Haggis, I remembered seeing some info on Pelican Parts. It mentions DRL but not sure if it says how to do it (no time to read thoroughly) but I thought this might be handy for you. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?t=288322
  20. Take a look at Yoseif's Boxster Gallery. You can select body colour, top colour, interior colour etc. I just tried it and it didn't seem to work but it has in the past (I also just upgraded to IE 8 though), so I can't comment on what pics are there. http://www.whiteson.org/boxster/gallery/
  21. I am more worried about rain than theft with the top down. I leave it it top down at work and if it feels like a safe area. I have the red clip, bought a few at the Porsche dealer. Can't remember exactly but under $10 each I think. There is a controller under the driver's seat that if it gets soaked can be costly to fix.
  22. Sounds exactly the same as my 02 Boxster. Shifting is stiff and notchy as it passes the mid point between 1st and 2nd mostly and worse when it's cold. However sometimes shift is perfectly smooth. I really suspect the motor mount is causing the notchy feel and will have it replaced this summer when I get some time. This is my only major disappointment with the car after buying it last March. Fast shifting is impossible between the notchy shift and stiffness. Even when perfectly smooth it does require more effort than other standards I have owned. I had the Porsche Short Shifter installed last year (I think it's a rebranded B&M if I remember right). Definitely the throw is shorter but only down to what I had expected it to be stock as a sports car. The short shifter is a little bit stiffer shift as well but it does feel more precise. I would definitely recommend the short shifter. If I can get rid of the notchy shift, the rest would be ok. Let us know the difference that the motor mount makes. Thanks. Still a great car to drive though!
  23. Thanks Jim. I will take a look at rennlist.com as well.
  24. I guess I'm just nervous since I had a car when the Drive Clean first started that did not pass. I was lucky at the time that I had a good mechanic and he didn't charge me much to resolve things cheaply. I had to have the exhaust manifold scraped/cleaned to remove the carbon build up to make it pass. There are lots of reasons a stock car won't pass emissions though. Sputter, I see you are Bowmanville. I'm in the east end as well. Any local activities you have found in the east end? I joined UCR PCA last year but haven't had time as yet to make it out to any events but they all seem west end based.
  25. I'm due for my Ontario (Canada) emissions test this year when I renew my plates. Any advice of things I should do before the test to help passing? Any thoughts on those "guaranteed-pass fuel additives" on a Boxster engine?
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.