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usaf-lt-g

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Everything posted by usaf-lt-g

  1. usaf-lt-g
    Do you mean the hinges? The thing that attaches to the body and the lid, and to which the gas pressure spring is attached? If so, for the front: 996 511 151 01 (left) 996 511 152 01 (right) Rear: 986 512 151 01 (left) 986 512 152 01 (right) I mean the actual "silver levers" that you "pull upwards located on the driver's side that release the hood and the rear luggage compartment. Mine are all scratched up from shoes hitting them, and some of the paint is chipped off.... looks crappy which is why I want to replace them.
  2. usaf-lt-g
    Interesting, so my rear trunk release stopped working from the remote and after I read this thread, I thought well maybe I'll check that cable then... sure enough.... one of the cables was broke. The other one (which i assume is the one attached to trunk release lever on the inside of the vehicle works fine. Anyone know the part #s / procedure to replace the other cable? How hard of a job is it to fix?
  3. usaf-lt-g
    Hey guys, I'm trying to figure out what the difference is between the Stock 00' Boxster S wheels I have which are the Sport Edition 3 wheels, silver painted. I want a rim that allows me to still use the factory center caps with Porsche Logo, but something that's slightly more "shiny" (but not chrome) then the ones i currently have. I don't feel the stock 18" give the car any justice and I've been looking at rims for a long time. I don't think Chrome will look right on the silver body. These are 19" fit the vehicle, and in the picture "appear" to be a bit more "flashy".... but the decription says: Finish: Silver Painted This is the Wheel I have currently. I dunno, what do you guys think?
  4. usaf-lt-g
    Just wanted to give a great thanks to Sunset Imports, and inform some people of a few great prices! I needed some replacement parts for my 00' Boxster S, and I couldn't find anywhere else to beat the prices. I got a brand new HVAC Control Unit (my old one's digital readout screen was almost dead) - $241.00 The Plastic trim piece that covers the Security Alarm blinking LED light - $20 The driver's side triangle plastic trim piece that houses the side mirror controls - $18 10 quarts of Mobil Synthetic 0W-40 - $5.00 a quart!!! That was WAY cheaper than my local autozone or pepboys around here. And of course the filter and o-ring - I can't remember what the filter cost, but the little metal o-ring was $0.47. :) I ordered a bunch of door paneling replacement clips as well... I think I got 2 bags of 10 for about $2.48 as well. Also curious... Anyone know the part # and how much the pull-arms for the front and rear hoods are (just the silver pull-arms, don't need new springs or anything). Mine are all scratched up. Kudos
  5. usaf-lt-g
    Ya, I've known about the "monney" installation for some time, but it just doesn't seem to fit a "prime" location in my opinion. I'm going to run with the idea of modifying the rear speaker box. My windshield is being replaced as we speak right now, and then I'm going to run over to a local audio shop and show them my ideas and see what can be done. The goal is take something similar to the article on the rear speaker box mold, and modify it to fit the 2 3.5" mid-range speakers I have + the 2 6.5" woofers from JL. I'm thinking they can be angled slightly and present through the middle. between the two hoops.
  6. usaf-lt-g
    So I called JL audio today and spoke to a tech support rep concerning good mounting locations for the subs they currently offer. He ended up calling one of his reps who had a 2000 Boxster S in which he said he mounted 2 6w3v3 subs (one under the passenger side dash, and one under the driver's side dash). He said this is an ideal location because #1, it doesn't infringe upon foot space, and #2 they're out of sight which is ideal for the setup I'd like. Curiously enough, I can't find any information where anyone has actually done this, and I'm wondering if anyone out there has attempted this or has any other info or pics so I can get an idea of where and how exactly these would be mounted. The rep on the phone indicated that small enclosures were also made to fit these subs. He said the sound produced from them in the boxster with this location setup was superb.
  7. usaf-lt-g
    Alright, well... After having NUMEROUS issues with compatibility problems (XM, DVDs, Audio Processor, etc...) I decided to switch to the IVA-505/P1 instead of the IVA-W203/P1 that I previously had. The good news is, the IVA-505 has no issues, fully compatible with everything, has extra features, and I traded it for a meer $200 difference. The bad news, is that the "Black Trim" piece that covers the sides like in the above picture, didn't fit exactly the way I had it before because the clearance needed for the screen to drop (to insert cds etc) wasn't high enough. So... I had to turn it around and upside down to make it fit properly. And now it's perfect.... EXCEPT that there's no more nice "Porsche" emblem on it. Does anyone know where I can get a couple of these exact Porsche Stickers (like above) so I can re-apply them to this side of the Trim Piece? Please let me know. Thanks! :rolleyes:
  8. usaf-lt-g
    Hmm, would the IPAS Security Codes be written anywhere on the car per chance? What do they look like typically? If I don't have them already does the dealership charge "extra" for the security codes because I don't have a clue what mine are, i only got 1 key with the car. I take it the dealership will "cut" the blank(s) in that service time charge? Advance Thanks for the help Loren.
  9. usaf-lt-g
    So if the key gets pushed more than 256 times, it loses sync, and more than 1024 times (as could easily happen in a pocket), it will never ever ever work again? Isn't there some way to reset them both back without having to pay $300 for a new key? So, I know I've seen websites out there where you can purchase the "head" (metal cut part of the key) and the black porsche cover (not sure if it comes with a chip or not) for pretty cheap. That being said, let's say you purchase that for $25. What's the cheapest route to either get a new key and have it programmed, or have the one that's not working programmed. There has to be a cheaper route than $300. Yes I realize with a PIWIS or OBDII you could do this yourself... but I don't have one :) Only the Durametric kit, and that doesn't allow you to program your own keys :) Would be curious what the cheapest route is. I know i've seen some places recently (hardware stores) that will cut fancy cars keys and have the capability to program the chips. Not sure if that applies though.
  10. usaf-lt-g
    I am right there with you on the silly $300. I was quoted $325 just to figure it out by my dealer. We will get an answer. :huh: All I can do is laugh at this... I have the EXACT same problem, on the EXACT same model and year! 2000 Boxster S, LEDs work, alarm works, manual key works etc. Tried all the same steps and no result... I gave up a while ago too... but glad to see it's not just me :) I'm staying in the loop on this one as I'm hoping for a solution. :) Actually, here's a little bit more diagnosis.... on my remote (after trying all steps as indicated above). The RED LED does not blink at all when pressing the lock/unlock button... the trunk release button however, if i hold it down, blinks fast 5 times, then stops, then blinks 5 times, stops, etc... until the button is depressed. :huh:
  11. usaf-lt-g
    I am right there with you on the silly $300. I was quoted $325 just to figure it out by my dealer. We will get an answer. :huh: All I can do is laugh at this... I have the EXACT same problem, on the EXACT same model and year! 2000 Boxster S, LEDs work, alarm works, manual key works etc. Tried all the same steps and no result... I gave up a while ago too... but glad to see it's not just me :) I'm staying in the loop on this one as I'm hoping for a solution. :)
  12. usaf-lt-g
    Yep I'm well aware of the ol' "gels" they use to fix cracks. However, since the crack is on the "inside" of the windshield, SafeLite can't fix it with their tools as it's gravity fed in, and gravity doesn't work well upside down :)
  13. usaf-lt-g
    Well, filed a claim with my insurance company (actually I didn't know that filing a claim for a winshield didn't affect the premium in any form). $250 deductible but that's not bad considering they're going to replace it with an OEM Porsche Stamped windshield that's a lot more expensive. Thanks for the info.
  14. usaf-lt-g
    I'm likely to supercharge my boxster S in the coming month with the iA Supercharger. In order to get the most of the system, pretty much all the performance experts point to upgrading the exhaust system and the air intake. In terms of exhaust I really like the NHP 3.2L Full exhaust system, which comes with: Performance Exhaust Headers with 200 Cells Catalytic Converters 200 Cells Catalytic Converter Mid-Pipes 2 x U Bend Pipes Performance Muffler 2 x Muffler Clamps Gaskets and Hardware Has anyone used or experienced this exhaust system before? I want a good performance exhaust system that will compliment the supercharger, but at the same time, won't kill my eardrums while crusing around town. Performance should be there when I call for it. From the soundbytes, it doesn't sound too bad. Also, I've heard many people complain about "upgrading the intake system."
  15. usaf-lt-g
    I agree... Just looking for the best "success" one out there for ease of use / future use. Wondering what everyone recommends.
  16. usaf-lt-g
    Normal... I asked about this myself not too long ago :) It's recommended you "warm up" your boxster S to the operating temp before driving it anyways. You'll notice that once it's warmed up a little, the shifter will run a lot smoother. But yea... short answer is.... normal.
  17. usaf-lt-g
    Hey guys, I may be replacing my rear CV boots and drive axel (not sure yet if any of it needs replacing or not yet... but i always research first :) ). In any case, I'm looking at the tools, and it talks about special tool 9560 for the ball joint press. I saw a previous post about using the Harbor Freight Tools equivalent. This is ITEM 92882-1VGA on their website, which is a 5 piece kit. However, it's labeled 5 piece "FRONT END" service tool kit. Does that matter? Also in regards to the drive axel, I understand that a new drive axel was introduced for the 2003 model and that in my case, my 00 Boxster S uses M8 bolts to secure the inner cv joint and the newer uses M10 Bolts, but that there's some "transitional style M8 bolt equipped with an M10 guide." What the heck part # is needed for that? Is there anything else special I would need if I wanted to replace both the CV boots and drive axels? I'm guessing this a prime Loren candidate question :)
  18. usaf-lt-g
    Hey guys, I'm considering replacing my OEM shifter with the billet Schnell Short Shifter and Linkage Upgrade. Curious if anyone has any opinions on the product, or if it's worked out well and does the job. Let me know! Thanks!
  19. usaf-lt-g
    Well... I did have a pro look at it originally, a glass fixing company (i've used them before, do a great job). I originally thought the crack was on the OUTSIDE of the windshield.... turned out it's not, and he couldn't do anything about it with his equipment. At the same time that cracks been there now for 2 years, and hasn't changed... it's just annoying to look at it. If you weren't me, and I didn't say anything, you wouldn't even notice it. Since it's on the inside of the glass, there's little chance of it moving, especially since the car is garaged. Still.... If there were someway to fix it, i'd be greatful for suggestions.
  20. usaf-lt-g
    A KTS 500 is not a PST2. A PST2 has Porsche specific software and an interface cable that different from the generic KTS 500. You can turn a KTS 500 into a PST2 (clone) with the right cable and software. There is no difference between the capabilities of a PST2 on the property hardware and a PST2 on a laptop - the Bosch I/F box for voltage inputs has always been an option. So as a matter of "budget" per say Loren... What's the easier most cost effective way to go about obtaining it, and where would you suggest getting a hold of the necessary parts? I've tried google searches on PST2 hardware, the Bosch PCMIA card etc, and have found very little.
  21. usaf-lt-g
    Lol... yea i'll get RIGHT on that ;) :eek:
  22. usaf-lt-g
    So here's the question, I have the durametric software already, which is fine for checking on codes etc. I'd really to get something better, preferably so I can change settings, add and program a new key to my vehicle, etc. I don't feel or see the need to purchase a completely new laptop or the Porsche touch screen bosch knock-off for $2500. I'm a pretty computer saavy guy, in fact my job is software engineering. I've got more laptops, servers, and old pcs laying around the house that I can't justify paying more for things I already have. For an 00' boxster S, I don't quite fully understand what the difference is between the KTS 500 and the PST2, or if an even older model such as the KTS 300 would even work. I don't understand the relationship as to why people are saying they need a PST2 vs. a KTS 500 and what the differences or "lack of functionality" exists between them. On the otherhand, isn't there some simplistic way to either "build" an interface cable, purchase whatever PCMCIA card you need for a laptop, and obtain and install the software yourself vs. paying for a closed-loop system? What's the value in a PST2 / KTS 500? I assume it's the "key" to unlocking all the things you normally have to take your car to a porsche dealership for, such as programming a new key to your porsche? Thoughts? :huh:
  23. usaf-lt-g
    Holidays have "delayed" my tinkering at the moment. But I'll be back on track in a few weeks and will post an update :)
  24. usaf-lt-g
    It was a good time foster... let me tell you :) Hey at least you didn't cut your right headlamp wires by accident ;) Fixed that though...
  25. usaf-lt-g
    Hi guys, So here's an interesting one... I have a small maybe inch and half crack on the INSIDE of my winshield, right where the rear view mirror adhesive clip is that attaches to the windshield. It hasn't expanded, and it's really only noticeable to me, but it's rather annoying in my opinion... Is there anyway to fix this without replacing the whole windshield? Anyone else ever had this problem?
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