fpb111

Where did you have problems?  I remember reading another thread where he had to cut ~2"? off of the lid at the bumper.  Is that where yours had problems?

Smoke test should be able to expose compromised lines much quicker than visual inspection of each line. 

There are three valves that control the evap system. One vent valve on the charcoal can, one on the fuel filler and one above the alternator in the engine compartment. Under certain conditions the evap system is tested for leaks. Something like, fuel between 1/4 to 3/4 full, engine at operating temp,etc... The two vent valves are closed and the engine mounted purge valve is opened to build vacuum in the system. Purge valve closed monitor vacuum. If leak detected throw a code.

I would check the valves first as they are moving parts that wear. Of those the purge valve on the engine is the most active. Also If you do a search for 996 vent valve you will see a tutorial on the fuel filler mounted vent. That seems to be the one most folks change first.

"Porsche 996 fuel vent valve" on Pelican parts tech articles. Good luck, don't forget to tell us what fixed it for you.

It might help to know what year and entertainment system your car has. Try pulling the fuses, D8&9? to Reset the system.

One bar (1/4qt) is pretty good for 10k miles at 6000 rpm. Not good if you parked it 1 month ago and just went out to check it 30 days later.

The electronic gauge is often not exact. It really depends on, how warm the oil is, if you parked it in the exact same level spot, phase of the moon...

Look at these threads:

http://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/809409-list-of-common-faq-fixes-issues-etc.html

That bar is for checking/locking cam timing.  Folks have made cam "clamps" out of wood that work fine.

You are right about the other, $300, set not suitable for 3.6 ltr.

_{Read through this thread}

_{http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/47831-36-engine-tear-down/}

weight is ~75lbs.

Get a Bentley Service Manual before you take any more of the engine apart.

http://www.amazon.com/Porsche-Carrera-Type-Service-Manual/dp/0837617103/ref=sr_1_3?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1437413883&sr=1-3&keywords=bentley+manual+Porsche

The valve covers are also 1/2 of the cam bearings.  If you pull a valve cover you need to support the cams with "clamps" that hold them in place.  To check valve timing you remove the green plugs on the ends of the cam covers (without removing the valve covers) and check the "slots" in the ends of the cams while the flywheel is at top dead center. 

The $300 set is more complete.  You might end up needing both tool sets.

Sir Tools "Sir P 254 Engine Support Bar"  http://www.sirtools.com/stuttgart_05_page_2.pdf

This tool is very helpful when you need to support the engine when you remove the transmission. 

It makes pulling the trans much easier. Beats using a floor mounted screw jack. You can tilt the engine/trans to get clearance to pull the brackets out and replace them, move the lift up and down for bolt and slave cyl access etc. Also enables engine tilt to match trans during installation.

http://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/741797-got-to-use-my-new-p-254-engine-support-bar-for-the-996-yesterday.html

These two tool sets make changing coils and spark plugs much easier.

1. Kobalt "24 piece right angle bit driver set. #0338552"  SKU #09919852324

2. Service Kits "3 piece spark plug service kit #41740"

The small ratcheting handle in the driver kit allows you to remove the coil bolts with a lot less aggravation.

The magnetic spark plug sockets are permanently attached to the extensions so you don't lose them in the plug wells. And the short extensions are perfect for the job. 

??Bragging or complaining?? :huh:

Keith Peare, Mike Daino and the crew at Power Tech in Rockaway, NJ have a good reputation and a lot of experience with these engines.  They are also very active in the local PCA region NNJR.

http://www.pwr-tech.com/

Too bad Automotion takes so long to ship the bar.

Check eBay or Sir tools

http://www.etoolcart.com/enginesupportbarforthe996.aspx

http://www.autotoolworld.com/Sir-Tools-P254-Engine-Support-Bar_p_205929.html

etc...

Coolant residue around the cap might be related to the plugged line?  At any rate update the cap to part # ending in 04.

Mine does the same thing. Rattle noticeable at lower speed when hot. Because it happens only when well heat soaked, hydraulic oil or radiator outlet heating the rack/inner tie rod?, I'm thinking inner tie rods also. 

Make sure to put the mounting bolts back in the right places.  If you put a long bolt in the wrong spot you can break pieces of the engine casting.

There is also a fancy tool that supports the engine while the trans is removed. It has an adjustable saddle that helps with lining up the trans input shaft. SIR Tools SIR-P 254 http://www.sirtools.com/stuttgart_05_page_2.pdf

If you search they can sometimes be found for under $200.  I got a lightly used one for ~$100

You can remove the slave cylinder from the trans and tie it aside so that you don't have to bled the clutch system.  You need to drop the trans a little to get to the top bolt.

Sometimes helps to push toward plenum to relieve pressure until you feel the back side clip release.

Or Sears - AGM batteries

http://www.sears.com/diehard-advanced-gold-agm-battery-group-size-48/p-02850748000P?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1

http://www.sears.com/diehard-advanced-gold-agm-battery-group-size-49/p-02850749000P?prdNo=8&blockNo=8&blockType=G8

Loren,

I think you got it fixed.

Thank you,

Frank

So after I donated this year my account was semi locked because emails sent to me were bouncing, old email was still in system?

  Now email is corrected.  Still get "fix email" popup window after every thread change, also at login.  Try to correct by filling out popup and get "That email is in use"  Well no S--t Sherlock it's mine.  How to get this straight?

Thank You,

Frank Baker

Member since May 2008.

So I donated and my account was semi locked because emails sent to me were bouncing, old email was still in system?

  Now email is corrected.  Still get "fix email" popup window after every thread change, also at login.  Try to correct by filling out popup and get "That email is in use"  Well no S--t Sherlock it's mine.  How to get this straight?

Thank You,

Frank Baker

Member since May 2008.

Sorry this should have been a new thread.

You should also make sure that PO used the correct mounting bolts on all ends of the axles.  If they are not the stock bolts you may not be able to reach correct torque, even if you can get to full torque value incorrect bolts are likely to stretch and fail.

Sounds like a failed wheel bearing cage.

The bearing is a double ball bearing. One side can fail and allow the balls to gather together and click like billiard balls while the other holds together for awhile. At Watkins Glen my garage mate had one (rear on an air-cooled 911) that was loose and he re-torqued it. It seized and spun in the carrier 2 sessions later.