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adonkin

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Everything posted by adonkin

  1. All this talk about oil quality is intriguing but how in the world does that relate to a sealed IMS bearing. I read this over and over to change your oil every 5K and use the absolute best oil money can buy for IMSB health. Porsche always thought Mobil 1 was good enough and any oil you use has no effect on the IMSB!Alan in Boston
  2. One thing I find a bit disingenuous in FabSpeed's advertising is that they refer to the over axle cats as secondary giving the impression that they're not really needed. In our US systems with 4 cats, the ones built into the headers are warm-up cats and the ones not really needed for DOT compliance. Therefore, the over axle cats are indeed the stock primary cats although they are downstream of the warm up cats. That probably led to the confusion our friend in the UK had expecting a set of cats in the headers which would be sufficient for compliance. Not so for the ROW and not even compliant in the US with 4 cats. The FabSpeed system does it completely differently as they graft the one set needed onto the header and delete the over axle cats. And then of course they can tell you that you don't need the over axle cats.To be compliant, you could do a set of standard aftermarket headers (no cats), stock over axle pipes with cats, and your choice of muffler. The only hassle would be in welding in O2 sensor mounts in the piping before the muffler (but after the OEM axle cats) and lengthening the sensor wires. You need sensors before and after any cat and the stock 4 cat system does that with the warm-up cats. I totally agree with Jacques. The wheezy sound of the base 986 sucks! It doesn't even come close to justify what the car really is in terms of even stock performanc!Alan in Boston2000 986 2.7
  3. Thanks logray. I've got the codes (posted in my first reply) and read (from Wayne Dempsey's 101 Boxster Projects - I think) that if you disconnect the battery for >20 secs. but less than 50 secs., you'll erase the CEL codes and preserve the radio code. Either way, if I loose it, I have the proper radio code somewhere in my docs. or dig into the radio FAQs you mentioned if I can't find that.
  4. I'll give the air blast a try this weekend and get back with the results. Is it really a no-no to reset the fault codes with a 30 second battery disconnect (still preserving the radio code)? Thanks for the help!
  5. Thanks for hanging on to this thread, JFP. I plan to break the connection under the car and blow back towards the intake above the manifold split. But replacing this baby looks like a PITA. Have you done the R&R?
  6. :help: I'm another one cursed by the glowing CEL beast with a P0446 code, this one accompanied by P1128 and P1130. I've read all the posts in the various threads on a P0446 search and now my 2000 986 base is also stalling and hard starting. The current symptoms were proceeded by some unusual behavior that's grown worse over the last 6 months. History: It started with an annoying whistle (like blowing across the top of a bottle) coming from the EVAP vent under the gas filler door. It was suggested that I stuff a small piece of open-cell foam into the opening to damp the resonance and that worked like a charm for the last couple of years with No CELs. Thanks to the board! :notworthy: But all changed one day after restarting the car after a trip through a high blast "touchless" car wash. But I've done this many times before. This one threw the CEL but the car was still running fine. That is till the first gas fill-up! I never top and always pump my own but after my standard fill of Sunoco Ultra my box won't start for the first time in the 4 years that I've owned her. :huh: Eventually, in a panic, I held the gas peddle to the floor (like in the older flooded carb days) and cranked and cranked and cranked till it finally caught with much jazzing the throttle to keep it alive for a minute or two. Then absolutely no more issues with starting or driving till the next fill-up and there I have to go through the floor it and crank routine. We read and interpreted the codes (above), then read through all the related posts and narrowed the fault to maybe a vacuum leak (full disclosure: I did change out the coolant recovery tank a few hundred miles ago) or one of the three solenoid controlled valves in the EVAP system. After scouring the lines for leaks, finding none, a call to Sunset (a board sponsor) confirmed my suspicion that the culprit was most likely the purge control valve located under the left intake manifold. They mentioned they were selling many of these compared to the other two (under the right front inner wheel well). The responses from the much appreciated, experienced, and learned folk on this board have found this valve to a common failure point evidenced by these symptoms and codes. Sunset sent me a replacement (996 110 129 06) and I set about to swapping this out. Now here's my current dilemma. The attached pipe to this valve is pinned to the underside of the intake manifold with a metal strap/rubber bushing combo with a screw or bolt which appears to be unremovable without removing the intake manifold! Boy did this job balloon by several orders of magnitude. That job isn't even covered in Bentley's. Am I wrong about this? I could just cut the pipe and see if I can route the new one around this clamp. But I also read JFP in PA's response which suggested just a "pffft" of compressed air through the line should take care of things. Really? I assumed the air blast should come from the manifold end (reverse the normal flow direction) but with the under-car end open or closed? I don't want to pull that intake if I don't have to and any help will certainly be appreciated. Alan
  7. I just was reading recently (Excellence, Panorama?) that erratic cam timing strongly indicates imminent IMS failure. I think that I'm hearing the death rattle starting in my 2000 986 base. what a drag!
  8. Moosey, See if the sound is coming from under your fuel fill door. The coke bottle blown accros the top sound was driving me nuts till I checked the board and got a suggestion to dampen the sound coming from the carbon canister vent pipe with a small piece of open cell foam. That worked for two years on my 2000 2.7 till last fall - but that is another story. Alan in Boston
  9. brucwnoh1956, "Any idea what caused the bang?" Yup! Same issue exactly with my '00 986. The "parking brake" (remember when they called them "emergency?") shoes are out of adjustment. They wear if the p-brake was ever engaged while driving, but cables slacken too and clearances grow. When the slop gets to be excessive, the brake shoes end up rotating a partial revolution within their "drums" inside your rear rotors upon engagement while rolling until they bang into their stops. It sounds horrific if your rolling with any speed. The first time I tried a rapid, brake light-less slow down (any guesses why?) with my "new" 8 year old Boxster, I thought that I might have blown the transaxle not knowing how the setup worked . What a Bang! It turned out to be a simple adjustment of the shoe adjusters followed up by cable slack adjustments at the lever to take care of it. Alan Y2K Ocean Blue 986 base Lots of plans Boston
  10. Now I'm starting to think that I should return that snorkel to my '00 base 986. The thought of rain saturating the filter element doesn't seem like the right thing to do. It was mentioned that this device was purely for sound abatement bet now I'm wondering. -alan
  11. Thank you again Maurice! Your always there to help and I'm sure everyone going through the top replacement routine appreciates your thoughtful insight not to mention a bit of hand holding on what seems at first to be such an onerous project. I think that I'd rather due a clutch R&R, but here goes anyway. I will leave the assembly on the car as I do this as I don't want to build a bench and holding jig. If I don't finish it one day, I can always stow the works and get back and forth to work with the hardtop on the car. Believe it or not, the arctic silver top on the ocean blue base surprisingly doesn't look all that bad! I'll get some pics when the gloomy rain clouds go away. Right now I'm waiting for all those 986-561-xxx-xx parts to come in to do this right. Regards, Alan
  12. Folks, It's so great to receive the insight of those that have gone before me. Thank you all so much for your contributions, especially Maurice and Mike Focke. :thankyou: My new GAHH is sitting in the box and I'm about to order up those clamping rails, sliders and material to fabricate the seals as most recommend. My one question to start is: is this project feasible with the top and frame removed from the car? I'm lucky enough to have a hardtop for our New England winters and could keep on driving (i.e. getting back and forth to work) while I worked evenings in the garage on the top and frame. Mike has a DIY for removing the assembly and it has been discussed here as well. Just wondering how much added hassle it would be and if it can even be done that way. Thanks so much, Alan
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