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santambrogio

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Everything posted by santambrogio

  1. Thanks for the promt reply. If I buy the updated post 2003 switch & bracket as sold by Sunset it is then neccessary to remove the old lock barrel and reinstall that to the new switch & bracket assembly. I would assume that the lock barrel is pressed in to the bracket and not easy to remove / replace from the old to the new bracket. Anyone actually removed the lock barrel?
  2. Key is hard to turn or insert at times. No hadlights, parking lights on. Gong on when key is out. Streering wheel lock does not work. Lock has no detent holding to the off, locked position. Alarm honks when attempting to arm, indicating an 'open' somewhere. Did a search on the site and all points to the igniotion switch. What would be the fastet way to fix this? Get a non OEM switch? Get the new, revised switch from Sunset and replace the switch & lock assembly? Would an after market switch fit the older style lock bracket, like the Audi part would? Assuming that: A. Factory switch is revised and needs new lock bracket. B. After market or Audi will fit current bracket, 2000 Box. Even in LA its a little too cold to tke the bike to work, so I'm looking for a relatively qick but good fix. Related to this one of the 2 remote key does not enaged the alarm, is this a dealer's program job?
  3. To clarify the previous post: Just called Sunset imports where I ordered the new can of Pentosin; the say that Pentosin CHF 202 in the silver can replaces and is compatible with Pentosin CHF 11S.
  4. Thanks that is a very good info. How is the adeseive from the old logo best removed? Will a solvent damage the paint?
  5. Ordered and received some 'Pentosin 220' power steering fluid and have lerned from the forum that the 11 or the 110 Pentosin are what goes into a 2000 Box. Does anyone know if the 220 Pentosn is compatible with the 11 or the 110 that was specified previously? Is in fact the 220 a newr version that replaces the previous? The 'Boxster' logo the rear trunk need replacing, a replacement has been received, what is a good way to remove the old one and the related adesive? TIA,
  6. The car is the fun car used for the fun drives and sometimes the canyons. The car had this tires on when bought last August. Tirerack does not list the Neros that are on the car (255/40 ZR 17's) as Boxster tires, they are N rated. Pressures are checked and per car sticker. I really do not want mismatched tires and am buying matching fronts. The wheels are factory 17's
  7. The '00 bought last August came with Dunlop Sport 8000 front in 205/50 zr17 and with Pirelli P Zero Asimmetrico 255/40 ZR 17 rear also labelled "NERO" I want to replace the front Dunlops with matchin Pirelli P Zero, the tirerack site has OEM listings for Porsche N3 and N2 waht does that mean? The rear is a P Zero Asimmetrico matching front for this are a symmetrical "direzionale" recommended for possible wet weather or a assimmetrico for dry conditions. The concen is that the rear I've got on the 255/40 17 'nero' is not listed by the tirerack site as a OE tire. The rosso is.
  8. The 2000 Boxster has a plastic panel that mounts the front plate, 2 screws attaching the plate are too long and have left marks on the bumper. Are there factory fasteners for the front and rear plates? I've found sone stainless steel 'security' fastener that look decent. I prefer not to use a license plate frame and would like to use 4 neat fasteners on both plates. If P. makes correct fasteners than i'll use those. Any ideas? On the B(mw) car I've used 4 black screws with matching metal grommets years ago, and these have rusted, time to buy 16 licence fasteners.
  9. The car was in a carport with a non water proof cover on. The two wheels on the open side of the carport had the center caps with the P. crest become opaque as if the transparent plastic has absorbed water and turned white. The wheels on the 'dry' side instead are OK. It appears as if water got below the plastic over the crest. Replace? Wait and see if the moisture dries?
  10. Replaced the air filter, oil change & filter, washed the motor, and even managed to replace the cracked oil separator. Really thanks for the great resource that this list is! The power steering fluid is low where do I buy the 'pentosin' (sp.?) or can I use another brand of PS fluid?
  11. thanks for the good info. I've cleaned the area at the bellow with contact cleaner, and will try to replace the bellow without removing the separator. Angled needle nose pliers seem the best bet to expand the clamps. The stealer said that removing the cat portion of the exhaust was neccessay, the bolts at the flange on the header are spot welded on, do not want tho break that weld. Your experience suggest that removing the cat is not necessary.
  12. I've found that on the '00 the front "X" points are covered by a plastic bellypan as is most of the uncercarriage. The rear "X" points at the diagonal bar is as the pictures show, exposed. In the quest to avoid paying the stealer $650 to replace the oil separator bellow I've jacked the boxster by using the rear jack points for the jack and supporting the car on jack stands at the rear "X" points and at the front factory jack points. I am using the 2 rear XI points and the two front factory supports. And if there was an easy way to get the bellow out...
  13. I've posted on a similar issue, i've got to replace the separator bellow which is leaking in to the block. To do this it is necessary to remove the separator as you have done. Did you remove the exhaust manifold? Or Just the rear wheel? I'll start on this this weekend. Thanks,
  14. The oil separator bellow is torn, there is a nice oil puddle filling the space between ribs on top of the block and some oil mist on the top right of the motor. How difficult is this to replace? Do I remove the passenger rear wheel? Is it necessary to remove the ex. manifold? With the top motor cover off I can hear pressure escaping and continuing for a short period after the motor is off
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