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I circled the mold outline of where the sensor should be according to the diagram. The yellow is the lever arm for a flap adjusting servo. I can get a better picture tomorrow. The photo is looking up from the drivers foot well with the foot-well air vent removed. This is an early '05. Maybe there were some more running changes? I also pulled the stereo out to get a better view of the center and no luck spotting a sensor. I have the sensor that I am looking for in a baggie so I have a visual reference of what to look for. I appreciate the help, May have to step back and do a sanity check again. Thanks again! -Greg
So I have scoured factory manuals and the internet to no avail. My A/C is not working due to the compressor being in 'CAN shutdown' state. This is because the 'Air intake temperature sensor' reads -42 degrees. I found the one linked to the AC condenser on Pelican and bought one just to have it. After much digging I found that there are two sensors and the computer takes the lowest reading. If that reading is below 38 degrees it will not allow the compressor to engage. Now here comes the problem. I cannot for the life of me find that sensor. The one up front behind the grill is easy, that one is working fine. But I have only found reference to the one in the ventilation system for condenser intake temp. I removed the glove box, cabin air filter and blower fan. I only see what might be a humidity sensor in the air path. Do I need to pull the whole dash off? I have poked around with a mirror but cannot find the location of the sensor. For reference the sensor that I am looking for is part# 1H0-907-543-A-M5262 Anyone have any hints or suggestions? I really want A/C back! I have only found one mention of this kind of issue and the result was 'a bad wire'. But that was after extensive work was done to the car. I want to find out if it is the sensor itself or a bad connection. Thanks in advance! And here is a fun image of some of the other projects that I have been working on.
I've heard horror stories about the sound 'shack' at laguna Seca. It's designed to be as harsh as possible and not fair at all. A stock car should not fail, even at WOT. A custom 'turned' set up tips needs to be made by a shop, probably not too bad to have it done.
I believe my '05 has the original battery. It has been driven daily for its whole life. I do have an Optima standing by waiting for it's turn in the car. I'm debating wether or not to let the original die first or replace it anyway. My dad has gotten 15+ years out of a wet-cell battery. 2-4 years seems a bit short to me. 5-7 seems reasonable to me. +1 for a battery tender
Bigger motor, bigger brakes, slightly tweaked spring rates (or so I've heard), an 'S' on the trunk lid following 'Bosxter'. Many options can be had on both. For instance the 6-speed is standard on the 'S'. My base was delivered with the same 6-speed, the main reason I got it. Great gas milage, nice ratios, just lacking the torque of the monster 3.2/3.4 There may be other things, but I am still for the most part a 'newbie' when it comes to Boxsters. If the price is about the same, I would go for the 'S'. However I am more than happy with my base 987.
Your making me jealous. 92 is all I can get around here. Sunoco 94 is my favorite ever, but I have only ever found it in a few east coast states. I heard there is 94 somewhere around here but have not seen it personally. I have been sticking to chevron or shell for my 987.
There are no holes in the 987. Mine came with the front plate, and yes.... the DEALER ran screws through the bumper. I took it off as I have not received my plates yet and there are 4 massive ugly holes in the bumper. If I were you, I would use a high quality foam adhesive to attach the plate mount. Even if the adhesive bakes onto the paint it is easier to remove than screw holes. Someone also suggested printing a vinyl copy of the plate and sticking that on, I may be crazy enough to try it. In CA you can at least get away with the no front plate or take a fix-it ticket vs a massive speeding ticket. Here in WA I've heard they are not so nice about it. -Greg
Man! I wish you the best on this. It's good you got the car back on the road so your not waiting for it to get fixed. I agree with the mechanic that only a few over-rev's won't destroy the motor (unless its ridiculous). The modified redline on my 944 is 7000, I had a bad downshift when racing and maybe hit 8500+. It's still ticking. I just hope this isn't going to be a common problem with 987 motors.
I created this poll out of curiosity. My '05 has 54,100 miles and the more I look this is just about the highest milage I have seen on a 987. At least the first 40K were put on in Germany before it was brought here. This poll is open to any 987 be it Boxster or Cayman, base or 'S'. -Greg :drive:
Thanks! I totally missed it when I looked through the book. I was too distracted by the Stuttgart Dealer stamp. I'm still impressed that the 40K service was done by dealer # 001! Unfortunately there wasn't anything I didn't already know; PASM, 6-speed, full leather. -Greg
Hi all. I picked up an '05 base. I want to find out for sure what options the car has. I did do a search! but all that has turned up is to look under the hood. Alas I have looked all over and come up empty. Most references were also for the 986. Did it move for the 987? The car was a tourist delivery in Germany (or so I am told) would this cause the lack of sticker. The car has never been wrecked or re-sprayed and all the other stickers are all in place. I don't even see any residue or evidence there was an option sticker. Is there any other way to discover options as delivered? Obvious things are easy, but I'm still curious. Thanks!