Flakarter

Thanks Kevin, although I hope that's not the case! Sounds expensive! Dean

Hi Karl, I just posted this Friday, so no time yet to have it looked at. Dean

Genius! I'll do it! Or my mechanic will! ;-)))

Hello all: I have a 99' 996, with about 64k on it. The clutch, flywheel, pressure plate, throw out bearing, etc., were replaced about 2 years ago, with about 50k miles on the car. Within the past 3-4 months, in hot weather, there is a squeal coming from the rear end when I let out the clutch. It starts about then the clutch starts to grab, and stops when the clutch fully grabs. I even got it to make the noise once while going into 2nd gear. If I let out the clutch really slow or really fast, it usually won't make the noise. The nosie goes away in cooler weather, and even in warmer weather, it is not present all the time. For instance, I'm in Florida, and it has not made the noise for the past 2-3 weeks, but started again today. The local private mechanic I used thinks it might be something connected to the accessory belt, but why would it make the noise when the clutch is let out? As the clutch was/is quite expensive to replace, I am hopeful that it might be something like a bearing in the alternator or something else connected to the accessory belt. Any ideas? Thanks! :D

Loren, I took the car to the dealer this morning. I needed a front headlight bulb replaced, and while I know I can do it, I said what the heck, I'll pay them to do that and they can turn off the air bag light. When I mentioned it to the service rep, and that I understood that it should be easy, he said no, it will take a while as they have to hook it up, and "go through menus in the computer program", and it is not quick and easy............. Oh come on. Instant loss of credibility. So, they charged me 2/10ths of an hour to do it, which I happily paid just to get it over with. It just wasn't worth arguing about. But it is a good test of their truthfulness, which I will file away. Dean

I have a sneaking suspicion that my local dealer (Tampa Bay Area) will charge me out the ying yang for this service. But hey, they invested in the equipment and there ought to be some return on it. It just pains me that in my quest to perform a minor repair on my car, I have driven myself into the arms of the one I wanted to avoid for such a minor issue. Oh well. Dean

Recently, I took apart the steering wheel to try and fix weak horn bushings in the steering wheel that would beep whenever I hit a bump. While doing so, my car was sideways in the garage, and I needed to move the car so my wife's suv could be parked in the garage. So, with the airbag disconnected, I reattached the negative battery cable, started the car and moved the car to its proper place in the garage. Now, once reassembled, with the airbag plugged in, the red airbag light is glaring at me! Argh! :cursing: I presume from the above sequence that when I started the car without the airbag plugged in, it freaked out the computer and it is now reporting an airbag error. So, do I need to go to my local dealer to simply turn off that light? Is there some other way to make it go away???? If I have to go to the dealer, do you think they are going to want to do an entire diagnostic and charge big $$$? Can I just buy an OBDII reader and reset that error code? I know, I know, lots of questions......but I've traded the psycho horn for the glaring red light! Thanks! Dean

Thanks for all of the info and suggestions. I took it apart and used a combination of the rubber o-ring fix, and the RTV sealant fix. It no longer beeps at the drop of a hat, but the lower corners are too hard to activate the horn, but the top 2 are about right. But......my new problem is the airbag light. My car was sideways in the garage while I was working on it, and I needed to move the car so my wife's suv could be parked in the garage. So, with the airbag disconnected, I reattached the negative battery cable, started the car and moved the car to its proper place in the garage. Now, once reassembled, with the airbag plugged in, the red airbag light is glaring at me! Argh! :cursing: I presume from the above sequence that when I started the car without the airbag plugged in, it freaked out the computer and it is now reporting an airbag error. So, do I need to go to my local dealer to simply turn off that light? Is there some other way to make it go away???? If I have to go to the dealer, do you think they are going to want to do an entire diagnostic and chanrge big $$$? Can I just buy an OBDII reader and reset that error code? I know, I know, lots of questions......but I've traded the psycho horn for the glaring red light! Thanks! Dean

I have a 99' 996. Recently, I noticed that if I just brush the airbag/horn pad on my sterring wheel, the horn blows. Now it has become even more sensitive, and certain bumps will cause the horn to beep. :eek: It has to be something behind with the airbag/horn pad on the steering wheel. 1) Any ideas as to the cause? My first thought is that the horn switch spring (?) is growing weak. 2) How hard is it to pull the airbag/horn pad to take a look? Thanks. :clapping: Dean

I have a 99' C2 that seems to need a new clutch. Typical slipping in high gears for a second, rpms increase, then fall back and the car accelerates. The car has all of 43k miles, and I have not driven it hard at all. I bought it with 17k or so miles. I obtained a quote from the local dealer, and I would like to know if the following part numbers appear correct. This is for a clutch replacement without the flywheel, as it is my fervent hope that it won't need a new (costly) flywheel. Clutch disk - PO997-116-013-10 - $273.56 Pressure plate - PO996-116-027-02 - $313.03 Release bearing - PO996-116-080-04 - $135.92 (geez that sounds expensive for a bearing!) Clutch guide tube - PO996-116-087-01 - $43.89 Parts Total - $766.40 7 hours Labor - $686.00 ($98 per hour) Total $1,567.45 with tax and shop supplies. Is there anything else that should be replaced? I heard that there was a new design release arm in 2000. Is that what the "Clutch guide tube" is? If not, should I have the release are replaced as well? Anyone know of any other good 911 mechanic in Tampa? Thanks! :D Dean

Thanks LVDell!!!! I'm a little dissapointed though. I just had the 30k service done on my car a few months ago, which included plugs. I sure wish they would have mentioned then that replacing the orings might be a good idea. It's just ironic that the leak started soon after the plugs were replaced by the dealer. Dean

Here is a pic of the area under the right rear of my 99' 996 which is leaking oil. Any idea what it might be, and what the part is that the oil is actually dripping from? Thanks Dean

I just noticed several oil spots under the rear of my 99' 996 C2, toward the right side of the motor. Is this where the rms leak normally reveals itself? Dean

My966, Im glad it worked for you. I bought it and returned it. Likes: No bucket, just spray on the soap and wash. Nice stream of water from the normal water rinse Did seem to sheet off the water well and the likelihood of no spots was good I like the idea of not having to run a towel or shami over my paint. That has to be helpful. Dislikes: A little heavy, since it's tethered to the hose, but not a deal killer I noticed that the wash mit wound up very dirty (more so than normal). Why? The stream of filtered water for the no water spot feature was fairly weak. It takes a while to do. Perhaps as long as using a towel. Takes a while to sheet off the water. Seemed to remove the wax (Zaino) from my car While you may not have spots, there are various areas on any car which continue to drip water out of various gaps. Those will streak as normal and need to be wiped with a towel/shami. The thing that probably pained me the most was sitting there staring at the car waiting for the water to slowly sheet off. It does not happen as fast as they portray on TV (I know, never believe anything on TV). I'm sure if I continued to use it I'd just walk away, but it's so hard to do. And you still have areas that need to be dried with a towel/shami. The biggest two problems to me were what appeared to me to be a removal (or at least a decrease) in my Zaino, and the fact that I still have to hit it with a towel/shami for the drips and runs. For a car I really don't care about (if there is such a thing), I'd use it in a heart beat. Maybe even for my dirt bikes, but drying them isn't especially time consuming. Just my thoughts. Others may differ. :D Dean

Could it be that the window isn't adjusted correctly? Dean

My P1130 code problem, on my 99' C2, was a mass air flow (MAF) sensor. See this thread: MAF It also threw out other codes as well, but once the MAF was replaced 6-8 months ago, no more CEL! :clapping: Very easy to replace. Literally less than 2 minutes, at most. Dean

Our local Autozone stores will run the OBDII scan for free, and the guys tere are usually pretty excited about doing it on a Porsche! Worked for me, and they even turned off the CEL light for me. :thumbup: Dean

I agree. Using GT3 might bring claims that someone is just a poser. Yesterday, on the way home from riding dirt bikes with my sons, we noticed a Corvette with after market "Z06" chrome bars across the tail lights. Problem was, it was not a Z06. Wrong roof line, no vents in front of the rear wheels, etc. Pretty lame to me (and my kids!). Dean

Any advice on how to "readjust" the sunroof after the battery has been disconnected. I looked in my manual, and searched for other posts, but nothing. The sunroof is acting weird, and doesn't really close or open like it did before the battery was disconnected. Thanks Dean

I have a "previously owned" 99' 996. I need to replace the battery. I checked the cells, and they were a little low, but nothing major. Then again, I'm not really sure where the fill mark is. There was a silver metal piece down inside, which dropped down from under the cap, and the water was below that piece in most cells. Will most auto parts places have the correct type of battery, with the vent hose? I read elsewhere to remove the negative cable first, then positive, and reverse that upon reinstallation. Other than adjusting the windows and sunroof, and re-entering the radio code, anything else that needs to be done when a battery is replaced? Also, where can I find the radio code? The manual did not come with the car. Thanks. :D Dean

Hmmmmmmmmmmm. Thanks Loren. I guess there is no easy solution to my V1 power socket problem. Dean

Can someone tell me if there is a part with the number 901 613 80 100, and if so, what it is? It is supposed to be some sort of 12v socket for a 996, which is deeper than my 99' OEM socket, which is too shallow for my Valentine 1 plug. Thanks Dean

I have a Valentine 1 radar detector, which I have used for years. Unfortunately, the power socket depth in my 99' C2 is too shallow, and the power plug for the V1 falls out. You can just look at it and it will fall out. The problem also appears to be partially due to the fact that the V1 plug is too deep, and the ground wire blades on the side of the plug don't fit all the way into the socket. The plug simply won't fit in deep enough to stay put. And adding the little eurpoean adapter to the end of the plug (which increases the OD of the plug to fit in the larger ID european plug) doesn't help. Currently, I have use a plug which splits into two power socktets, and then plug the v1 into one of those. But it's a bunch of spagetti and gets in the way (and really it looks like crap). I don't have the time right now to hardwire the cord. I've tried replacing the end of the V1 cord with a different (shorter) style adapter plug, to no avail. Once you expose the two small thin telephone wires that act as power and ground, the wire is so thin that it will easily break if any stress is placed on the cord. So a new plug end won't work. Valentine was aware of the problem but had no fix, other than to hard wire. They did mention that another Porsche owner had the same problem, and he called back to report that Porsche sells the following part (which I presume is a deeper lighter socket) with a part number of 901 613 80 100. Anyone know if that is a correct part number, and what it is? Of course, by the time I buy that part and install it, I could probably hard wire the V1. Argh! Anyone else have this problem, and find an easy solution? Dean

I tried, and I tried, and I tried, but it just didn't work. 99' with memory seats. Oh well Dean

On what year 996s does the mirror tilt feature work? Thanks Dean