N41EF

I was a 19yo with a 1971 Corvette, I feel your pain. I had a constant U-joint problem, replaced them twice, I just wasn't doing it correctly. What did you tighten the cap screws to? Had they been replaced before? are they the correct part? The torque from the engine goes to the wheel through the friction between the flange and the axel. The cap screws hold the two together, but shouldn't be under axially load. Tightening them too much will make them fail under tensile load as they are stretched. Too loose and they will fail by shear, they are not designed to take the torque the engine can put out. Chuck

Gee thanks, since I read your thread I realized I too have a gas smell ocassionaly. Was it the sender houseing? or the top? I'm not sure what had cracked on your car.

One thing I learned, is that if you don't use the key fob to lock or unlock the car, the alarm goes to slepp to save on battery charge. Read the owners manual about how the alarm works. Also, might want to read how to change the battery in the key fobs, worth a shot. As far as leaving the top down going to the store, find yourself a "red clip". Do a search here and on eBay, it allows the alarm sensors to be used with the top down, neat feature. There is an incredible amount of knowledge here, it's worth being a contributing member just for access to the info. If you have no maintenance records, i'd flush the brake fluid, check the serp belt, check the boots on the half shafts, oil and filter change, and drain and replace coolant. If you have tha base radio, you may well only have front dash speakers, Different packages had door speakers and a rear storage box/speakers. You can go back and add them if you wish. I have a set of door speakers to install, but am looking for grills. Hard tops show up on eBay, depending on what color you are looking for and where you are located.

From what I've read online, unless you are getting a misfide CEL, or can actually see a crack in the coil, there is no reason to replace it. You could also use a multimeter and check them. Most of the cracked coils seem to come from people tightening them down too much after replacing plugs. This is a plastic item bolted to the head and can get brittle, so if you tighten them too much, they could crack. Again, unless it has physical damage, just put them back on and be gentile with them.

Unless you are having misfire problems, I don't know that I would worry about replacing coils. I just did my 60k service, the right side plugs were pretty easy, the front two on the left side were a pain. There is a plastic splash shield in each wheel well that has two plastic nuts. With the car up on jackstands, pull the rear wheels and those splash shields and you'll be able at least see the plugs. I used a spark plug socket on a 3 inch extension, them a swivel, then a 9 inch extension, then the ratchet. Use a torque wrench to tighten them, they are not really that tight. The connectors to the coils have a swueeze connector under the black boot on top of each coil. Squeeze the connecter ( the "latch" will be facing you ) to unplug them, remove the two allen screw, wiggle them and they will come free. I just cleaned them up, and put a dab of dielectric grease in each connector. Again, don't over tighten, they are plastic and bolted to the engine. Check you cv boots while you are there, all four of mine were split. I also replaced the gearbox oil, since I was there. The serp belt is easy, I used a shallow 15/16 socket and a 1/2 drive breaker bar.

Just did this today, you need a 24mm or a 15/16 wrench to hold the tensioner. I used a 15/16 socket and a 24 inch breaker bar to do it so there wasn't a lot of straining. As above, check all of the pulleys and idlers for movement or play, There was a tip on petes board to install the belt on all pulleys except the idler just to the right of the alternator, then move the tensioner and slip it on, worked like a charm for me.

Thanks for the thought Paul. Time is also an issue, and location. To do the 60k I did it on jack stands in my 2 car garage. I also need to replace the front engine mount, which would be easier on a lift. I have access to a lift at the Army Base, and plan to do the engine mount next weekend. If I can get two shafts new and install them in a couple of hours, I can get rebuild kits later and over the Holidays rebuild them and store them in the garage. From my readings the 6 speed cars are hard on boots, so if I'm going to have to do this again in three years, I'd like to have the rebuilts ready to go. Just in case I do have a bad joint, or bad ball, or whatever, rebuilding them when I can wait for parts is a better deal. I believe Sunset parts said the outter jount comes with the axel, but the inner joint is available. Having a spare set bagged in plastic means I'll NEVER have another boot failure. Worse case, I can sell them as rebuilt on eBay if I never need them, or offer them with the car. I've learned that driving cars that didn't come from Detroit means sometimes you need to keep spare parts. Thats why I have 2 Discovery drive shafts in the garage, easier to rebuild on my terms than when you HAVE to get to work in the morning. How long do wheel beaqring last? Are yours 914's still original? Thanks again, Chuck

Sunset says $450 per side whole new shafts/boots/everything. They also offer a "rebuild kit" for about $39 each joint which is a new boot, clamps, grease and such.

So my baby is up on jack stands in the garage doing the 60k maintenance, plus a few other things just to get the peace of mind. While laying there bonding with the car, I noticed grease slung around the left inboard CV joint, yep it's split, but while squeezing them found all four cv boots are split. I don't see evidence of any of the outers throwing grease, but both inners, the left is fresh, the right is old and dirt covered.. On other cars (vw's, and Hondas) I've always bought rebuilt shafts as a unit, and was leaning that way until I saw prices. Pellican says $708 per side for the unit, genuine Porche, will give Sunset a call to check there. At a minimum I need to replace all four boots, clean and re-pack the cv-joints. The car is just shy of 60k, should I just spend the kids college fund and replace the shafts? My thought is I don't know how long the joints have been exposed. This is a daily driver that I put about 12k per year on, and I intend to own it for at least another 5 years if not more. Since I'm going to have the entire butt end of the car apart, should I replace wheel bearings? Pads and rotors look good and measure good. I'd just rather not be doing this again in 6 months. What is the usual, replace boots and hope the joints are ok? Or the whole shaft? Thanks, Chuck :renntech:

Glad it worked out for you. Tracing grounds can be a nightmare. Obviously A5 somehow powers other lights than those listed. Chuck

A5 is the power from the headlight switch that tells the cluster that you've turned the lights on. It also tells the ac unit the lights are on and dims those leds. It sends power to the tag or license plate lamps and to the rear "position" lights which I believe are the rear corner lamps. If pulling A5 makes the smoke stop, you could drive the car with the fuse out, you just lost your tag lights, and the cluster lights and A/C lights won't dim when you turn on the headlights. The front trunk light is not on the same fuse, mine acted up too when I bought it, it was a dirty contact on the front latch that controls the light. I flipped the front latch several times and the lamp came on. Yellow wires are repair wires, when I added my cruise and OBC it was explained that yellow wires means someone has repaired or added something. If it is a solid yellow wire, follow it to see where it goes. The smoking comes from a wire getting pinched or shorted, there are no relays between those two points. If you are good with a miltimeter, I would disconnect the battery, connect an OHM meter to the A5 load side and turn on the headlights to check for a short, you could remove the taglights, and marker lights to make sure you aren't just reading bulb reesistance. It will take a while but following the wire from A5 to the cluster, somewhere along the way you have a short to ground. Your going to want to remove the cluster, the kick panel around the fuse block, the vent tube at the drivers feet, and maybe the driver's outside vent (the one above the headlight switch. SOMEWHERE between those two is a ground causeing the smoke. Sorry for the delay in getting back to you, work and college fills my days and nights. Let me know what you find, Chuck

I checked the wiring diagram in the Bentleys manual. The blue plug only has three wires that seem to corespond to your issue: Pin 8 is for the High Beam Indicator Pin 10 is for the LED dimmer Pin 11 is for the bulb dinmmer Also of note, when you turn the headlights on, power goes from the swith through fuse A5 to the cluster (though I can't find where), the a/c unit, anf the tag lights. Pull that fuse, and see if it continues. You'll lose your tag lights, but it should disconnect the headlight switch from the cluster. It looks like when the lights are on, the dimmer is then in the circuit, and voltage is reduced through the cluster to dim the dash and switch lights and all of the led displays. This is all power going FROM the cluster to the other lights. Check the wires for those three, also since you haven't owned the car since new, check for yellow colored wires in the plug, they aqre replacement wires, indicitive that some one has done electrical work on the car. Let me know what you find and I'll try to help.

I'm an electrical guy, but not a boxster expert, here's what I know. The fuse box is in the drivers kick panel below the headlight switch. If you are getting something hot enough to smoke there should be heat damage to the wires. I would disconnect the battery and pull the cover off the fuse box, there are a couple of screws that will allow you to pull it out and inspect behind it. Then pull the duct below the steering wheel and inspect the back of the headlight switch. Also pull the cluster and look down to the left to see if you see any damage. I've seen amaizing things people do to cars wiring. Maybe someone wired a radar detector and left a hot wire, you never know what you will find. Let us know what you find.

Sounds like your "mechanic" is throwing parts at your car, and at your cost. For a car that won't start, O2 sensors, AOS, or MAF won't keep it from starting, but will make it run rough or smoke. The CPS is the key that tells the computer how to control the ignition and fuel. If it is running that rough, it should be throwing codes. Borrow an OBD reader to see what codes are present and let us know. An idiot check would be to disconnect the battery for a bit, then reconnect, should reset the ECU, but won't clear most codes. You need to find a different mechanic, quickly.

i've used gun cleaning rods, the thin stiff alluminum type, screwed together. a plastic putty knife to ease the rubber back, a wedge as mentioned to give space, then just reach in unlock it. I needed two sets of rods for my corvette. Like mentioned above, go slow but you can put alot of stress on the glass and it won't shatter. You really don't have to pry it out very far, just take it easy.

Not sure what year Boxster you have, but the Bentley's is a really really good choice. I've owned a dozen VW's and always bought a Bentley's and find them to be a better deal. As an example, they have a "how the fuel injection system works" section, wiring diagrams, OBD codes and such. Take a look on eBay, or you can order direct from Bentley Publishing. Used one do pop up on eBay from time to time.

It would be easist to remove the cruise arm from the new switch, and instal it on your 3 stalk mechanism on your car. You will still have to wire the car to use it, and have your cluster coded as enabled.

Welcome to the P-Car club. Your 03 is a MOST bus car, so it doesn't use any radio codes. The radio communicates with the other modules, and if it thinks it's in the right car, it will play. I would check the plugs at the amp, it's in the front hood, mounted just in front of the battery, if you just had it replaced, something could have been knock loose. Check the balance control on the radio, if someone else played with the radio, well, I've seen people do amaizing things with the audio controls. Do you have rear or door speakers? Are all of the speakers on that side dead? As Loren mentioned above, check the fuse for the radio and amp, and fuses on the back. If these problems started immediately after replacing the battery, you might turn the radio off, put the windows down, open the front trunk, and disconnect the battery for a few minutes, then reconnect the battery. If the radio was on when you connect the battery, it might have messed up the "handshake" between the radio, the amp, and the rest of the car. Let us know what you find.

That VW part is similar, however, the three plugs are indexed to keep you from putting them in the wrong hole, besides the color code. The indexs on that VW part are wrong. The numbers on the green plug are: right side: 1-929497-1 pbt-6f-20 left side: amp 1-929409-1 999.650.507.40 made in germany

I was looking into a cluster transplant to add a Carerra cluster (oil pressure gage) and I broke the "ears" off the green plug that helps lock the plug in place. I assumed (I know) that the plug would be fine with out it, but when Istarted the car I got a Batt light, no left turn signal, no fuel indication and no oil level indication. So, my cluster is out, and waiting to get a new plug. There is a part number on the plug 999.650.507.40 as well as an AMP part number. Is that the Porsche part number I need? 2003 Boxster S US spec, 6 speed. Thanks, Chuck

My 03S Owners manual says the serp belt is due at 60k. Brake fluid every two years. A motion bleeder and a friend will make it easy and take about 2 hours first time you flush it. I drained and replaced my "lifetime" coolant, it takes 2 gallons of coolant and I used 2 gallons of DI water. The hoses looked and felt good so no change. Take a look at the radiators from the front with a flashlight, make sure to get the leaves and such cleaned out. Check the AOS, there are lots of threads here. Chuck.

Is the handbrake on? My VW turns the DRL off when you raise the handbrake up a notch or so.

I also not bidding on these , also not also..... What and AD! I did however report them to eBay for excessive shipping fees, via the link at the bottom of the page. Excessive shipping is used to avoid eBay fees to the seller, but still get paid by the buyer. Just my 2 cents, but I'd rather try EBC personnaly. Chuck

What is the offset on the wheels? I it is usualy cast in the back of the wheels. The tire size calculator above will let you know how close your speedometer calibration will be. Width and offest will figure out is they will rub. Bolt pattern and hub dia will tell you if it is possible to even bolt them on. You can also use the calculator or the what fits my car on www.tirerack.com

PM sent, in Aiken, SC