palmtree907

Lol, if they wanted a lambo, they should have purchased a lambo. In fact those doors are so hot... LAMBO'S DONT EVEN HAVE THEM! :lol: That is a good one!! :lol:

for clarification-I'm talking 33 miles per US gallon Hiway. in town 24-25.

I have been running K & N filters since the early 90's with no adverse effects. I had a Ford Explorer that I clocked 195,000 miles on over a period of 13 years using K & N Air and Oil filters the entire life. I sold the car to a neighborhood kid and he drove it for a few thousand more miles until he was hit by a drunk driver. He was ok, but the car was totalled. I've always noticed improved throttle response. Some of the vehicles have been noisier, some have not. All have had improved fuel economy by about 2 mpg. And no, I don't work for or sell K&N :)

The Box is my 3rd Porsche. a 944 went to the ex, my 1982 911 Targa went for a pretty penny last year (only had 22,ooo original miles), and I drive like a bat outta hell. In town I have averaged no less than 24, and on a road trip this weekend is how I managed 33 at 75mph with the occasional dash to 100 :) A buddy of mine has a 944S and he gets 23 in the city, my 911 never got better than 17.

Lot's of people say members only belong to forum's because they have car issues. Well, I'm posting to say I have NO problems with my Box at this time. As a matter of fact, the weather has been nice enough to drive it for the last week, and I managed to get 33 MPG on the tank I burned through using 93 Octane. :renntech:

In checking the foam trays and drain tubes for my top drains, I did the method of pouring a measured amount of water down the hole. The tubes don't stick out the bottom of the car quite far enough, so the first of the water to come down kinda dribbled across the bottom of the car til the flow carried it out of the hole. I got about 9 / 10ths of what I poured down, but the rest ran sideways across the undercarriage. Should the tubes stick down and actually "Out" of the car? Or is this normal?

A quick check at CRC Products website shows 2 different products for 2 different applications. They still make the MAF Cleaner. If they make 2 different products, I'm sure there's a reason.

Problem solved! Performance Products sells 911 hold downs that screw onto the lug studs. I took my old set and purchased 1 meter of 14 X 1.5 allthread at a cost of $59. Cut to 3 inch lengths and inserted into the hold downs. These can now be screwed into the wheels allowing the car to be secured at all 4 wheels without worry of marring anything, leaving the alignment intact, and of course with the comfort of knowing I can secure "the load" properly.

Thought if you didn't have Litronics, you had to go with the 996 light assy to make it all work ?

Normally a buzzing relay is a bad relay.

All in all how much installation time did that require and how much $$$ did you end up spending? I'd like to upgrade my speaker setup eventually, but it looks like a serious and costly undertaking. For my entire setup, I did the install myself, here's what I paid for the parts: JL ZR650-CSi - $440 MB Quartz PVI-210 - $140 JL TR350-CXI (for Rear Deck) 2 sets - $45 a set - $90 total JL 300/4 Amp - $249 JL 300/2 Amp - $229 Porsche Avic / Alpine Head Unit Installation Kit - $150 Alpine IVA-w505 with P1 Navigation / Bluetooth Unit - $1099.95 JL Audio XC-PCS4-2B - 4AWG Premium Power Connection Wiring Kit for 2 Amps - I paid $89 for the kit with tax, but it was at a place by me going out of business... JL Audio Speaker Wire - 16AWG roll of 100ft - $20 1 Sheet of 3/4" Oak Plywood - $18 1 Bulk Pack of Dynomat Extreme (enough to cover both doors no prob, and plenty for other applications) - $54 I also got the XM adapter, and Alpine Imprint2 Audio Processor, but that's optional stuff - $150 for it all Some other items you'll need that I already have from my tool collection: An electric Jigsaw, or Table Router to cut the door speaker templates A good drill with plenty of bits, I recommend a good battery drill with plenty of torque, but electric works too 1 Canister of Clear Silicone Industrial Stength Velcro Your trusty Bentley Service Manual (big help for wiring diagrams) All forms of tools, metric sets: torx bits, hex bits and sockets, wratchets, phillips screwdrivers, a butane pocket sized soldering iron with fine tip, rosin core solder, flux, wire caps, wire ties, a couple six packs of beer ;), All in all from start to finish on everything, at least 3 days of good solid work. I tackled each section as a project and called it a day... a little bit at a time. All in all let's see... Major stuff listed above - $2728.95 + tools and supplies you'll need (let's estimate for some decent tools assuming you have none) - $250 + labor (i did it myself, but figure in some guy's rate of $35 / hr) - 8 hours per 3 days - 24 hours - $840 So worst case scenario - $3818.95 :) CA-CHING! B) Hell no!! With the top down, you'll never get a good sound, so why bother? I like my Pioneer unit I installed, and I might find some affordable aftermarket speakers eventually. But I will not send that kinda coin on it. No how-no way! :)

So I went and dug out the 911 hold downs. Forgot they are female and the Box uses lug bolts. So I threaded the bolt into the tiedown, and they are the same thread. Off to the machine shop tomorrow to have them make some metric "allthread". I'll screw the hold downs onto the "allthread" and then into the wheel, and Voila!! Success. The straps thru the wheel will be a good solid plan "B". Thanks again everyone.

This was the easiest solution that I came up with too. But...Do the straps rub the paint off the wheels? Where did you get the "t" bars from? Thanks again for the input, the members on here are great! :renntech:

I'm getting ready to move across country and am confused. When I did this move last time, I had a 911 and used tiedowns that screwed into the lug holes. I secured it to the trailer and made it 4000 miles trouble free. These tiedowns say not for use on a boxster. Looking under the car, There doesn't seem to be many options on where to secure the car to the trailer, so how are all of you moving your cars when you trailer them?

Any time you need to drill a bolt out, use a cobalt bit NOT a high speed steel bit. Use moderate pressure, and only about 400-500 rpm. A lubricant like Boelube or Marvel Mystery oil will help too. Drill straight and be sure the moderate pressure isn't being applied sideways ,as you will bend the bit and drill egg shaped holes. one bit should last for many bolts. :clapping:

well, Since we are talking stickers...Somewhere in my cars previous life, someone peeled 2 stickers off of the door jambs on the passengers side. Any idea as to what they were? I am now left with 2 sticky spots. That didn't sound quite right... :P

Key has never been hard to insert or remove. None of the other symptoms you described were present either. I installed a new battery and the car starts better than it has in the 8 months I've owned it, so I'm thinking old one was a dud (even though it was only a year old). Thanks for the help everyone. I love my boxster!! :renntech:

Heck no! We wanna know about the excellent bodywork :D

earth (ground cable as we call it in the US) cable was secure on both ends. No corrosion at all. THe battery is a sealed unit, so not able to do much with it in that regard. Thanks for the help gang.

Ok. I just wanna be sure I'm not missing something... last week- battery was dead when trying to start (for no apprarent reason). Charged for 2 hours and car started and ran fine for a week straight. Voltmeter across battery when running showed 14.25 vdc. Let's assume this means alternator is good. Last night- drove car to store. started up and then decided to let fiance' drive home. She stalled it. Battery was dead when trying to restart, got the "click click click" of the starter relay. Guy driving by with Toyota couldn't get it to jump start. Push started down hill in parking lot and drove it home. Shut off and immediateley tried to restart, dead battery. Started right up today with battery charger in "start" mode. Again showed 14.25 vdc. I took battery to Parts store where purchased 1 year ago. Load meter shows only 62 cold cranking amps on a battery rated for 875 CCA. 12 volts dc present. Parts girl said no shorted cell. Said problem with something in car draining battery. I am thinking otherwise. Suggestions anyone?

which is why I took model paint and painted mine black :) And if you talk to Jake Raby at Flat 6, he sells a filter adapter so you can switch over to a spin on- which I did.

I get these exact same codes and same symptoms. With no Porsche dealer anywhere nearby, I just live with it.

couldn't get an aftermarket warranty for mine because it was a Boxster. But I still bought the car. :)

Ok, after about 10 miutes, I found the post and here is a link to the site that had the fix. I'm gonna see if I can trim the 3 hours down a little. Wish me luck. http://www.carboncow.net

Thanks much. I'll start searching.