Foster

Maybe try unhooking the battery so the DME will relearn the idle adjustments. Maybe the new plugs, filter, and clean TB is throwing it off. IDK, couldn't hurt to try.

Is there a part # for the socket that plugs into the dash switches ie the spoiler, footwell switches etc? I don't want the wiring harness just the plug/socket thingy.

BTW; Don't be surprised if you see one of these become available in the FOR SALE forum in a month or so. ;)

I'd agree with the 6, but then again I don't have the gbox back in yet. :D RMS Tool $242.44 Tranny Jack $108.00 The only thing that makes it hard is the location and weight of the gbox. If it was under the hood and weighed 20lbs everyone would do it themselves. If you've done a clutch before, then you probably won't have any problem.

Well, let's see. I think I started about middle of dec. and the parts finally arrived yesterday. So I figure I'll be done by this weekend. :lol: Time actually working on the car. About 4 hours. Time shopping for tools and parts. LOTS NEVER start something like this over the holidays when you have house guests. :rolleyes:

Wow do I feel stupid. I completely forgot I ordered that. :thankyou:

Well my parts FINALLY arrived. Everything looks good but, I don't remember every seeing the doohicky on the left. # 99762450500 It was in the bag with the release lever parts, but I haven't had a chance to figure out where it goes. Anyone have a pic of it put together?

Not to get off on a tangent, but if break a connector and can't find it anywhere you can sometimes find something that will work if you search around on digikey or mouser or somewhere similar. I looked for the connectors for the cluster in case I completely broke one but the part number is only available over seas and in bulk. $50 min order was the best I could find. I found something which would probably be compatible at digikey. Although you'd have use some tape or something to snug it up. Molex Connector There are links to crimp sockets if you break one off. Couple dollars for roll of a hundred. Or if you're a real cheapskate notice the "request sample" link. ;)

I've been looking at some circuits, and I'm pretty confident that the spoiler can be made to be completely adjustable, and have a LED. And I think I can do it without soldering anything, or even cutting any wires on the car. It would probably cost around the same as the LED kit and a dash switch. But it'll be a little while before I can get started on it. I've got projects lined up for a mile.

Well there's one way to find out. Unplug the IACV and see if the problem goes away. :drive:

Well there's your problem. :rolleyes: I'm not sure how the IACV is set up because I don't have one. Some cars use a 3 position soleniod. So there's your 3 idle speeds. Sometimes one or all of the adjustemnts are on the throttle body. So changing the valve won't change the adjustments. If the mechanic "slightly tuned" (sheesh sounds like took the screw out and threw it away) one to 2000rpm he wouldn't have known because didn't drive it enough. That's my last guess. If that ain't it, give it up and go to the dealership. :lol:

I haven't fully digested that yet. :huh: I'll look at it closer later. But could it be as simple as the IACV wires are mixed up? Maybe double check those.

I don't know anything about electric cars but when I saw this all I could think was NEATO. Electric 993

I thought a 99 was 37 and 75 mph. I've always been told the speeds were not programmable. Maybe they are? Would you happen to know the part # on the cluster? You might also ask the indy what tool he used and what version it was. I've been thinking of hacking the spoiler speeds for a while. My first thought was to use the 'speed gong' speaker output to trigger a relay. I went so far as to completely disassemble the cluster down to the board to find the speaker. There's what looks like a little speaker clipped to the board and it has 2 leads. I was about to cut it off but in a fit of temporary sanity I checked the MSRP on a new cluster. OUCH! Adding to that, I'm not positive that's where the tones come from. It could be something else. (Temp sensor?) So I chickened out, and decided to find a more elegant solution. I looked around for circuits that could use the speed signal. I THINK that radio control hobby servos use a similar signal. I haven't had a chance to get a meter on these signals yet. I stumbled onto a very very interesting site. AutoSpeed NOTE: The good news is prices are AUD so they're not as expensive as they look. Bad news, shipping from AU was $18 for my order. It should be here any month now. I ordered the voltage switch and frequency switch kits to experiment with. They also sell a book that I think has diagrams for most of these circuits. I bought the kits for the convenience of the printed boards, but I will probably end up buying the book as well. These circuits could be used to control just about anything on the car based on speed, RPM, pressure, temp, etc. A few project I'm considering; Adjustable spoiler speeds. One touch convertible switch. Switch disabled above X speed. Adjustable rev limiter. Adjustable redline indicator light. Adjustable flux capacitor speeds. :) Adjustable PSE activation speeds. You get the Idea. I have a lot of things going on right now so it will probably be a month or so before I get to any of this, but if I come across anything interesting I"ll post it here in the DIY forum

Thanks.

A LED may operate down below a volt. Usually ppl comment that the flashing gets slower as the battery dies. I'm just saying I would try to find a known working battery. Maybe try holding the key right up next to the A-pillar. I've never heard of the continuous flashing, perhaps a button is stuck. Sounds like it may have bit the dust. There's allot of voodoo written about keys. There are some instructions on 'resynchronizing' your key by putting it in the door and pressing the lock/unlock button or something like that. I've never had to try it but apparently it works for some people.

What's the voltage from the cluster for the OBC switches?

Those little batteries are notorious for being DOA out of the package. If you test them they show 3V but when you draw current the V instantly drops.

I've experinced that feeling and it was just the tire pressure.

Thanks, I found the list I think.

Does the targa switch only come in matte? I'm about to order one but I need gloss. I know the part no. for the matte is 99661311910A05 When I search for 99661311910 it always ends in A05. Is there a list of all the switch part numbers? Including the right hand drive ones?

If it were me I'd just use heat shrink, because that's what I have. It would probably work fine. But keep in mind that regular heat shrink tubing won't necessarily be 100% water tight. I've seen some auto splice crimps with heat shrink on them. They have some kind of hot glue type stuff in the ends that seals the ends up when you shrink it.

Paint? What are you working on?

You can use a cig lighter if you're carefully. I usually just lightly brush the soldering iron against it. IMHO the shiny vinyl kind from radio shack sucks. It doesn't seem to shrink as well. Try to find the kind rubbery kind with a flat finish. You can get it at a hobby shop that sells RC cars and planes. It shrinks up better. But remember it's only gonna shrink maybe 50% so get the right size. Definitely best to solder.

Antenna?