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About CMiYC

  • Birthday 08/26/1979

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    Wakeboarding, Geocaching, Driving

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    Austin, TX
  • Porsche Club
  • Present cars
    2004 C4S Coupe, 6-speed, Ext Silver, Int Black, LHD (US).

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  1. RESOLVED: It was the Voltage Regulator. Replaced the regulator this morning. Cold start the charging system is stable at 14.4v. After driving a variety of roads, highway, city, and stop/go, the charging voltage is stable at 13.9v. :) The regulator was about $50 shipped. I bought it from alternatorparts.com. Link to the one I ordered: http://store.alterna...regulator.aspx. The original part number was F 00M 145 225 (something I had trouble finding when searching for just the regulator.) Thanks to Renntech for being such a great resource!
  2. Originally posted a question about a trick to get the generator out (or in). Was about to use two chisels as levers to move it around. I wasn't expecting to do so much man handling, but it seemed to work.
  3. Thanks. It took me a while to understand what it was needed for, since I didn't realize there was a dust cover on the Alternator's Pulley.
  4. Just from looking at the engine bay, I'm not seeing why I need the multiple-tooth adapter. I have a 2004 CS4 w/ Manual. if needed is this tool available at a Sears or AutoZone-type store? I searched the web for the official part and found several suppliers, but was hoping to get this done this weekend.
  5. I'm pretty sure that at no time a car's charging system should drop to <11.7V. Nor should drop at a rate of 50mV/second. Which is what my charging system does every time after running for a few minutes. I would not agree "everything operates normally" now. This is a great idea. I hadn't thought to compare the difference from the battery posts to the engine posts. The only trouble i'll have with the experiment is moving fast enough from the front to the back. (I don't want to see a big difference in reading, just because of the time it takes to move.)
  6. The battery was less than 1 year old when the trouble began. Since it was still under warranty, I swapped it for a brand new one before making my original post. Needless to say, it wasn't the battery. I have a new regulator coming so I am going to try that next.
  7. My thoughts were moving towards the regulator as well. I just lumped it in with the alternator because I thought the regulator was internal on the 996's alternator. So in order to replace it, I have to replace the alternator anyway. Is it true the regulator is integrated into the alternator, or am I incorrect?
  8. About a year ago I was driving around and my radio cut-out. This caused me to scan the instrument panel and I noticed my voltmeter was reading ~12V. I shut-off the engine at checked the battery with a multimeter and saw it sitting above 12v. I don't remember the exact reading now, but it seemed normal to me. When I started the car it jumped back up to almost 14v and stabilized there. About 6 months ago this problem become more frequent. Intermittently I would notice the voltage dropping. It wasn't every time I drove the car, just on occasion. About 3 months ago the problem became apparent any time I was idling at a long stop light. I could watch the voltage gauge visibly drop to 12. At this point, after 15 minutes or so the drop happens every time. However, when I restart the engine the voltage will jump back up to almost 14v for 1-2 minutes before slowly dropping back down to 12v. If the Radio and A/C are both on, it will drop below 12v. After shutting off the engine, the battery's voltage will be around 12.5V. My assumption is that the alternator stops charging and the car is running off whatever is left in the cells. I assume if I left the car idling, the battery would be depleted and the engine would stall. However, even after driving around for 30 minutes and then sitting in the garage idling for 15 minutes, the car never dies. (How long could the engine idle on just the battery?) I took the car to Autozone, thinking they had test apparatus that was more elaborate than just a voltmeter. (Granted I think their tool can do things like properly load a battery, but really the information it gave wasn't much more than a voltmeter.) Their machine claims the charging system is perfectly fine, even though you can clearly watch the voltage drop 10mV / sec. Why is the charging voltage jumping up to almost 14v when the car first starts and then dropping? Why does it stay close to 14v when the car is cold but drops faster as the car warms up? In other words, if I let the car sit over night, I see the same behavior as when I immediately swap the battery with a fully charged battery. This was another test I did with Autozone's help. I assume the alternator needs to be replaced, I'm just curious why it is acting this way (and if it indicates another problem.)
  9. I put NGK in mine at 30,000 miles, 2 years ago. I won't bother making dubious claims of better performance or the engine running smoother or the other general nonsense people use when replacing parts. Replacing worn spark plugs (or any other worn component) is always going to result in better performance. However in the 2 years and 10,000 miles I've had them in, I have not had any issues or "headaches."
  10. Look at the numbers involved. The entire front-end will require reconditioning. New sheet metal. New fender. (I'm not sure but is that part of the frame which surrounds the trunk/boot?) That needs to be replaced/repaired too. A/C fans are probably damaged. There is potential damage to the brake system (sitting in the trunk). The car probably needs a new paint job from having that much dirt sitting on it plus to match all the new parts. The interior needs a serious amount of reconditioning and new airbags. New set of tires. Not to mention the work to recondition an engine that hasn't been run for 3 years. (You should NOT start the engine until you've had a chance to flush the oil and fuel system, and replace the cooling system's radiator.) Front-end suspension is probably in need of replacement as well. Let's say you have $20,000 in repair work. Are you going to buy this car from the guy for $1,000 or $2,000? Even after spending $15-20k in repairs the car probably won't drive right anyway. If he wants $10,000 or even $5,000 you're close to $25k-$30k! Why spend all that money and time when you can save a little more and buy one undamaged for $35,000?
  11. It doesn't matter if you are the guy who initiates the street race or the who gets baited into one. You are both douchebags.
  12. I had a 4Runner so I would agree with your time. My next SUV was a Toureg. I couldn't even get the brush guard off in the time it takes to change a 996's oil.
  13. When troubleshooting a problem, the dealership is probably the last place you should take a car.
  14. If you have never seen 0W-40, you might be surprised at how watery it looks. (Especially if, as you said in another post, it was just changed.) Rubbing it between your fingers (or smelling it) would help confirm that it was oil.
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