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whitebadger12

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Everything posted by whitebadger12

  1. whitebadger12
    jim, Saw you posted at Pelican as well. Somebody recommended a Durometric. Did you get any satisfaction since July? fuel or electric? Can't believe a diagnostic tool would help cause I had mine with the pros for five weeks, sure they would have run a diagnostic. Pulling mine out of storage and would like to get this DEAL breaking issue resolved-
  2. whitebadger12
    I have the same problem. Drove 200 miles to Taos last summer with engine running for 20 seconds stalling for 6 seconds then restarting long afternoon that was stalling out 2-3 times per minute. Nightmare. Guys in Denver had it for 5 weeks took apart front to back, looked at all electrical connectors and found NoTHING. Feels more like electric than fuel. When it quits stalling (6-7 seconds cut out each time and very consistent) stay in the gas and it bumps hard into acceleration again - like electric spark back on more than fuel restored as a guess). I have a k-N air filter which I wonder if it isn't oiling up the MAF and causing the computer to think it should quit running for a little bit. Will clean MAF and go back to paper this summer as a test. Only happens on warm days after 1-2-3 hrs of driving. I've also noticed the last couple of times that warmer engine temps preceded the issue. Thinking about a low temp thermostat as a work-a-round. Super frustrating to have such a great car that just can't be used for a road trip, any tips or clues leading to solution will be REWARDED!!!!!
  3. whitebadger12
    Thanks Loren!
  4. whitebadger12
    Great DIY, MANY thanks!! Only 1 comment: after about an hour of fiddling and cursing I realized that the switch I ordered from Pelican is not identical to the one that was in the car originally. In fact the part where it mates up with the barrel (mechanical part) was significantly longer so that it could not match or fit in. Went to Autozone and they showed the same part as Pelican, same for Checker. Ended up ordering the right part from my local specialist, he said that they may have changed the switch body during that model year. The moral of this story is visually verify that the parts are identical on the mechanical (not electrical) side and you can save a little trouble (also the correct one in my case is white and all the wrong fitting ones were black (like the one in the forum pics - that one wouldn't have worked for me) so maybe color could help in identification). Took 20 mins with the right part. Thx again! ;)
  5. whitebadger12
    Had the battery disconnected for a week waiting for the right ignition switch and I don't have a code for the radio. CR-220 Type 4362 Ser W5007382 Any help or info on a code to try would be great. Thanks-
  6. whitebadger12
    Looking for a code for: CR-220 Type 4362 SERI W5007382 Thanks-
  7. whitebadger12
    Good advice. Maybe they're talkin about 0C - Mine shattered (complete w/ loud bang) this am at 24F :censored: ... trying to replace now. Lesson learned (as always the hard way), but it was 10 years old and visibility is much better w/o it.
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