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About flash968

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  1. on a 968, the fans normally run after the key is shut off until it cools down. does the 944 not do this?
  2. that's not actually right. if you disconnect the switch, the fans will stop, whether the switch works or not. to test the switch, you need to use jumper wires. it is possible that a relay is bad. it is also possible that the resistor blocks on the firewall are dirty or bad is it the low speed or high speed fans that are on? is it 1 fan or both fan?
  3. loren is correct. the 13th digit (the one following the 8) is the first digit in the car's 5 digit number.
  4. the code is in your owner's manual i believe there is also a resource here for that, but i think you have to contact the site administrator
  5. that is correct - it is a pain in the butt to do too - those little knobs are painful to turn by hand
  6. LSD on the 968 came in 2 forms, Torsen in later cars and Clutch type in early cars. It was a separate option and did not come standard, even in M030 cars. It seems that the Tiptronic 968 has a form of LSD as standard, but I don't know what type. The "in the air reverse wheel spin" test does not work for the Torsen type, so i would recommend going back to the seller to determine whether or not it has it.
  7. this is all specifically related to a 968: there are a number of things that can generate an uneven idle or vibration in a 968, not the least of which is misalignment of the balance shafts - mechanics miss this all the time too, as many of them only look at the marks on the pulleys, and not at the keyways, which results in the lower shaft being off by a lot motor mounts are known to fail, especially the exhaust side, due to the heat - there is a spec to see where yours are rotors and caps wear out fast (often in as little as 10k miles), and can quickly contribute to a hunting idle and slightly rough running at low rpms chips don't really address the idle a dirty MAF can do it too - use only MAF cleaner and do not start the engine while it is wet tiptronic cars idle fairly roughly no matter what
  8. there is a gadget out there that you can build, but i don't have the specifics handy on it - send me a note, and i'll bounce you the contact info - maybe they can help you build one i use the durametric
  9. i'm not thinking that it is engine related, and is more likely a mechanical issue, i.e. a belt slip or physical contact thing is the AC on? how many times does it make the noise? just once when you blip it, or does it repeat?
  10. you say any acceleration, but then say below 1300rpm - so, i assume this is only first gear, as i don't know how you could get into another gear below that rpm - does it do it above that rpm? is the sound rhythmic? does it do it sitting in the garage? if yes in the garage, does it do it with your foot on the clutch?
  11. the workshop manual actually specifies the procedure the reason for doing it is that the cams are NOT in the same position relative to the crank when a stretched belt is replaced by a fresh one, thereby causing both cams to be out relative to each other when the new belt is installed the power changes have been documented by many - some claim even more - i was actually quite surprised myself until i had my cams timed on a tight engine with only 40k on it - mine did not change quite that much, but it was noticeable basically you can move the power curve up or down the rev range, based on where you set it - it is a variance of only a few thousandths of an inch, but it works - all the high performance tuners know this as i said, yes, the thing will run - but if you want it all, time the cams for more information, contact pete at rs barn - he can give you a detailed explanation of how and why it works
  12. it is indeed unusually difficult to compress - leverage and slow steady force is the way i did it - in all it took about 5 minutes of constant pressure to compress it - this is normal
  13. this is a loaded question to do it "right" you need the flywheel lock tool, and a pair of runout gauges with mounting hardware, so as to properly set the cams - marking cam positions and such only gets you "close" - the car will run and probably run "fine", but if you want all the power available, you have to time the cams, which is a tedious process requiring a good lock down of the crank, and both gauges - a couple thousandths of an inch there can mean 20 hp
  14. you'll probably get more help in the boxster (986) section than in the 924/944/968 section - those things are very likely different setups between the two very different types of cars
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