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About dr_karlb

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  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    2001 C4 Cab
  1. I have the same issue... random misfires on all cylinders Was told by the indy shop that the misfire sensors on the early 997's were too sensitive and there was a TSB to widen the CEL range. Anyone know if this is true ? The car runs great and smooth otherwise
  2. Anyone have any experience with Flintworks in Campbell for 997 service. Thanks
  3. Ditto. And I am happy to confirm that the Bosch 94-R is an EXACT replacement for the OEM battery in the 1997 997tt. What about the vent tubes ? I just picked one up and it doesnt seem to have a place to mount the tubes...
  4. I have new Tubi mufflers on the way for my 997S, and will do this exchange myself. Are there DIY instructions for this specific for the 997 ? I did my 996, so know that very well. Are there any differences ? The tips look like they attach in a different way and there is the bar to support the rear bumper. I did search and found the 996 DIY link again. Thansk K
  5. I have just sold my 2001 996 C4 Cab (for a 997S Cab), and the new owner is complaining that the cab top doesnt work anymore (it has been flawless for the last three years and even the day he picked it up!) As a last good deed, i was going to see if i can get him the info on what may be wrong. He said he has the hand brake on, the engine running and when the dash button is pressed he hears clicking sounds and the cab light starts flashing. My search found that the engine bay cover may be the issue, but he took it to Fremont Porsche and they said the Hydraulic motor is bad and quoted him $
  6. Mike, Thanks for the link. Did this on tuesday evening in about 30-minutes. For anyone in Silicon Valley, Audi in Stevens Creek carry the switches in stock for $37. As soon as i said "Ignition Switch" the guy recited the p/n back to me... guess he gets a lot of these :-) I broke open the old one to see this issue and the little plastic tab that holds the return spring in place was broken off and jaming the whole mechanism.... exactly what it felt like when turning the key. Well all fixed now :-)
  7. So my key has been getting kind of sticky to remove from the ignition lock, and yesterday it seems like a spring has slipped inside. It doesnt spring back when i start the car, and seem like i have to push against the spring to remove the key now. Is this replacement a DIY ? I did a quick search but the relavent thread didnt seem to help. Any idea of the cost for the dealer to do this? One thread said it was a recall item on Boxster... is this the same on 996's ? Thanks
  8. Just ran to the parking lot and tried this. Car hasnt been driven for 7 hours so is cold. No fans if i just run the engine. Hit the AC and the fans come on fast in a feew seconds. There are relays for each side ? Neither low speed works and both hi speeds work. Is there a layout for the relays ? Thanks
  9. I work in Santa Clara and Live in Mtn View. I thought the AC kicked the fans into high speed no matter what the engine temp ?? I dont think ive ever had them run at low speed... In stop and go the engine temp will creep up and if i hit the AC it stabilizes again. After the coolant tank change i got the chance to just let the car get all the way to temperature and the fast speed kicked in, but never saw the low speed. Where is the fan ballast and how can i test this. Im an engineer so have access to some tools and im quite handy :-) Thanks
  10. Loren (and all), after completing the coolant tank R&R this weekend, i let the car idle up to temperature. I never heard the low speed fans come on at all, but when the gauge got just into the 0 in 180, the high speed ones kicked in. I put the AC on and Off to see if there was a speed change, but it felt and sounded the same (AC runs fast seepd right ?) Q: I read there was a fuse for the low speed that blows after getting wet by driving thru puddle sometimes. Where can i find that fuse (and do you have a Part number ?) Anything else to check ? Thanks
  11. Ok, Well i got this one completed on saturday afternoon. No so bad really... took about 1hr 45min or so. After the tank came out i couldnt see the cracks anywhere so spent a stressful afternoon wondering if i had fixed anything and actually had cracked heads/cylinders etc. The next day i took a close look and had a V shaped crack on the backside of the tank in one of the folds, with crusted coolant just below it. There were a bunch or other cracks starting deep inside the plastic at different locations Mine is a 2001 so has a different tank design to the one in the DIY (longer at least
  12. Thanks Jeff, Planning on taking the dremel home from Work. I plan to start this friday night or sat morning and hope i dont need any spares from the dealer. Thanks for the offer... lots of people seem to get really frustrated with this DIY. I work on expensive machinery every day, and some of those are quite tight to get to. Fingers crossed on this one that i get lucky and get a tank that comes out easily
  13. I will be changing my cracked tank in the next few days. I have read all the DIY's and threads. I have a quick question. There is a cylinder shaped thing on the right side of the tank quite deep inside the engine bay. (i will try to post a picture) What is this and does it need to be removed ? If so how do i remove it ? Can the tank come out with it in place ? None of the DIY's mention this or show it on the photo's, but it looks to be in the way. (i have a 2001 C4 Cab if that helps) Any special tools needed for this job (metric sockets, wrenches and allen keys ??). Do i need a speci
  14. Quick question, What is the AFM, and where is it located ? Are there any line drawings showing the various components that are refered to in this DIY ? Thanks
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