dr_karlb

I have the same issue... random misfires on all cylinders Was told by the indy shop that the misfire sensors on the early 997's were too sensitive and there was a TSB to widen the CEL range. Anyone know if this is true ? The car runs great and smooth otherwise

Anyone have any experience with Flintworks in Campbell for 997 service. Thanks

Ditto. And I am happy to confirm that the Bosch 94-R is an EXACT replacement for the OEM battery in the 1997 997tt. What about the vent tubes ? I just picked one up and it doesnt seem to have a place to mount the tubes...

I have new Tubi mufflers on the way for my 997S, and will do this exchange myself. Are there DIY instructions for this specific for the 997 ? I did my 996, so know that very well. Are there any differences ? The tips look like they attach in a different way and there is the bar to support the rear bumper. I did search and found the 996 DIY link again. Thansk K

I have just sold my 2001 996 C4 Cab (for a 997S Cab), and the new owner is complaining that the cab top doesnt work anymore (it has been flawless for the last three years and even the day he picked it up!) As a last good deed, i was going to see if i can get him the info on what may be wrong. He said he has the hand brake on, the engine running and when the dash button is pressed he hears clicking sounds and the cab light starts flashing. My search found that the engine bay cover may be the issue, but he took it to Fremont Porsche and they said the Hydraulic motor is bad and quoted him $2500. Q: How much is a Hydraulic motor for these cars and what is the install time ? Do these go bad frequently ? All the issues i could find here and on Rennlist were bad microswitches and possible low or old Hydraulic fluid. Any advice ? Thanks

Mike, Thanks for the link. Did this on tuesday evening in about 30-minutes. For anyone in Silicon Valley, Audi in Stevens Creek carry the switches in stock for $37. As soon as i said "Ignition Switch" the guy recited the p/n back to me... guess he gets a lot of these :-) I broke open the old one to see this issue and the little plastic tab that holds the return spring in place was broken off and jaming the whole mechanism.... exactly what it felt like when turning the key. Well all fixed now :-)

So my key has been getting kind of sticky to remove from the ignition lock, and yesterday it seems like a spring has slipped inside. It doesnt spring back when i start the car, and seem like i have to push against the spring to remove the key now. Is this replacement a DIY ? I did a quick search but the relavent thread didnt seem to help. Any idea of the cost for the dealer to do this? One thread said it was a recall item on Boxster... is this the same on 996's ? Thanks

Just ran to the parking lot and tried this. Car hasnt been driven for 7 hours so is cold. No fans if i just run the engine. Hit the AC and the fans come on fast in a feew seconds. There are relays for each side ? Neither low speed works and both hi speeds work. Is there a layout for the relays ? Thanks

I work in Santa Clara and Live in Mtn View. I thought the AC kicked the fans into high speed no matter what the engine temp ?? I dont think ive ever had them run at low speed... In stop and go the engine temp will creep up and if i hit the AC it stabilizes again. After the coolant tank change i got the chance to just let the car get all the way to temperature and the fast speed kicked in, but never saw the low speed. Where is the fan ballast and how can i test this. Im an engineer so have access to some tools and im quite handy :-) Thanks

Loren (and all), after completing the coolant tank R&R this weekend, i let the car idle up to temperature. I never heard the low speed fans come on at all, but when the gauge got just into the 0 in 180, the high speed ones kicked in. I put the AC on and Off to see if there was a speed change, but it felt and sounded the same (AC runs fast seepd right ?) Q: I read there was a fuse for the low speed that blows after getting wet by driving thru puddle sometimes. Where can i find that fuse (and do you have a Part number ?) Anything else to check ? Thanks

Ok, Well i got this one completed on saturday afternoon. No so bad really... took about 1hr 45min or so. After the tank came out i couldnt see the cracks anywhere so spent a stressful afternoon wondering if i had fixed anything and actually had cracked heads/cylinders etc. The next day i took a close look and had a V shaped crack on the backside of the tank in one of the folds, with crusted coolant just below it. There were a bunch or other cracks starting deep inside the plastic at different locations Mine is a 2001 so has a different tank design to the one in the DIY (longer at least). Here are my comments to help others with the newer tank. Take off the gas cap and the coolant cap before you start. The coolant drains really slowly with the cap in place (and really fast with it removed) I only removed the Air Box Snorkel, not the whole assembly. Its not really in the way at all. Remove the secondary air pump entirely. This seems much easier that tying it back. Only one hose and one connector to remove. Absolutley, follow Lorens advice and get screw type hose clamps. Those spring type are a B$%^& to get off and im sure i could never put them back correctly. This was the hardest part of the job in my case. The level sensor in this years tank comes out very easily. I would remove completely before removing the tank, and certainly not install it back in the new tank until its fully installed. Both were extremely easy jobs, and im sure i would have broken it if it was mounted on the tank Remove the fuel filter. I made a real meal of this (fully removed the screw clamp, tried to unscrew the fuel lines etc). Its actually very easy. Loosen the screw type hose clamp and the whole assembly unclips from the coolant tank (clip at the front nearest you, tab in a slot at the back). The upper fuel hose is on some kind of quick disconnect running along the top of the engine bay, and the lower fuel line gets removed in the DIY anyway. The whole thing then just slips out (and dumps a filter-load of gas on my feet!) Dremel off the tab on the tank's locating feature furthest away from you. Only one little part needs to come off, and for good measure i did the same on the new tank. There are 6 tabs and its a tight fit, so one wont be missed. In really cant see how dropping the engine can help the removal in any way. Mine hung up on the hose clamp on the big (1.25"?) coolant tube running front to back. I loosened the hose clamp and rotated out of the way, the tank just slid right out. Sorry i cant be more specific, but i was a bit surprised it came out so quick and cant describe this any better. Reinstallation was also surprisingly fast. Tilt the top of the tank towards the engine so the lower hose parts miss the fuel rails and it seem to go right back in I pulled the bleed valve up to fill the tank and got most of the coolant back in. After a short drive it needed a few pints to go from min to max. So far no leaks, Q: if the fuel lines leak you could smell this, right ? I think im being paranoid, and dont see any leaks. The quick disconnect on the fuel filter inlet came off so easy im worried it doesnt seal well.... but it doesnt leak when i watch the engine idle hot or cold. Perhaps this can be added to the DIY if there is interest.?

Thanks Jeff, Planning on taking the dremel home from Work. I plan to start this friday night or sat morning and hope i dont need any spares from the dealer. Thanks for the offer... lots of people seem to get really frustrated with this DIY. I work on expensive machinery every day, and some of those are quite tight to get to. Fingers crossed on this one that i get lucky and get a tank that comes out easily

I will be changing my cracked tank in the next few days. I have read all the DIY's and threads. I have a quick question. There is a cylinder shaped thing on the right side of the tank quite deep inside the engine bay. (i will try to post a picture) What is this and does it need to be removed ? If so how do i remove it ? Can the tank come out with it in place ? None of the DIY's mention this or show it on the photo's, but it looks to be in the way. (i have a 2001 C4 Cab if that helps) Any special tools needed for this job (metric sockets, wrenches and allen keys ??). Do i need a special tool for compressing the hose clamps ? ANy other advice ? From the DIY i guess i do the following: Remove the Air Filter (single bolt ??) Remove the Air Pump (2 bolts and one nut) Remove 2 fuel lines (do i need to do anything special here ? Blead something afterwards ?) Drain the coolant from the one drain plug at the engine bottom Remove 3 hoses and 1 sensor from the coolant tank Carefully pull the tank out Thanks

Quick question, What is the AFM, and where is it located ? Are there any line drawings showing the various components that are refered to in this DIY ? Thanks