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I think I know your problem! My friend has very expensive 3-piece Work wheels on his Infiniti G37s and there is a groove between where the wheel sections fit together. When it rains the groove fills with water and at high speed the wheels act out balance because of the extra weight. This is not only annoying but extremely dangerous.
I ran over a screw and broke the belt in my tire, the timing corresponded exactly with my bearing change that's why I thought I screwed up. $225 for rubber and all is good again.
I just changed out the CV boots on my Boxster, as I noticed the boot was torn when I changed the oil. The boot was not only torn, but ripped completely in two. In order to access how long it had been torn and how much damage had been done, I jammed my finger deep into the joint and pulled out a hunk of grease. I examined the grease to determine how full of debris it was, looking for small rocks and grimy dirt that would surely shorten the life of the CV. To tell you the truth, it wasn't all that bad inside, and I live in Canada where all of the rocks and dirt are still on the roads from winter. When I took the axle out and the boots off to replace them, I played around with the CV joint and no abnormal noise, clicking or friction so I figure the joints are fine.
I replaced a VERY loud wheel bearing over the weekend and felt like I was driving a brand new car until I hit about 145km/h. I now have a pronounced rear shimmy that wasn't there with the old bearing. We used a SIR type tool to press out the bearing so that the knuckle stayed in place. We did whack on the hub to help it in until the axle nut could do it's job, do you think I might have thrown something out of alignment? The reason I chose to replace the bearing in this fashion was to get out of paying for alignment. Any suggestions? The tires are relatively new and were fine before the replacement.
You can adjust the roof. Do you know how to put your car into service mode? You start by opening the roof so that the clamshell is all the way up and the roof (where you unlatch it) is about 1 ft. away from the windshield frame. Unlatch the two sides of the water collector (the fabric underneath the rear window) by pushing down and out of the two black clips (one per side) then pull out the two metal lines with the ball joints on the ends. If you push the window back up to meet the rest of the roof, you have complete access to the engine. Towards the b pillar on the door, where the big black hinge for the roof is, there are three bolts on each side of the roof holding it to the car. You can loosen these and adjust your roof left or right by pulling/pushing on it. A good way to tell if your roof is centered of not it to see where the latch lands in the windshield. If it's sitting left or right, you know your roof isn't centered. I just did all of this because I had my entire roof off and the latch was hitting the windstop when the roof was going up or down. I know this may sound confusing but PM me if you have any questions. Do a search of roof removal to see photos of the process, I think they are posted by renntech user Juniinc. Ashley
If it were me, I'd find someone with a stock 997 who wants a drop, and swap out his stocks for your lowering springs. I have a Boxster S in Calgary, and if anyone with a lowered car wants my stock springs.....: )
mikes box = genius! Thanks a million, your suggestion of pulling the whole frame back worked like a charm! I appreciate you taking the time to write an answer, I thought I was hooped for a while!
Hey guys I removed my entire roof (frame and all) for the weekend while I hand sewed in a new window in my 2000 S. With Junninc's $100 window kit, a dozen broken needles and over 10 hours of labor, I finally replaced the cracked and faded rear window. With my roof now reinstalled, the top latch is catching on the windstop. I've tried adjusting the 8mm bolt which attaches the hydrolic pushrods to the roof but it still catches. I know I reinstalled it in the same place, b/c you could see where the washer had been seated for the past 8 years. Even after adjusting the 8mm bolt to both extremes (forward and backwards) it still catches. Any recommendations? Anybody.....Bueller........Bueller?
I would wait a little longer to determine if you were screwed or not. I ordered a new plastic rear window from him as well and it took him forever to respond to my email. I gave him money by paypal about a week ago and still no window. It's only going from Seattle to Calgary so it shouldn't be much longer. I'll let you know next week when it comes. Juniinc has been very active on this board and I don't think he's trying to screw anyone...I'm guessing he's just busy and hasn't logged on to the board for a few days.
You have to paint the hats for sure. Primer works best for adhesion, and that's what the stock Porsche ones use. Don't forget to give the fins between the inner and outer discs a coat as well. Costs $6 and takes 5 minutes.
Are you serious? Is price a factor? You might want to debate an 04' S and a base 05'. You do know their is a body style change right? 986 vs. 987. I can't even believe I am responding to this.....
I live in Calgary, Alberta Canada and drive my car all year around. They put small kitty litter like gravel on the roads in the winter to add traction to ice. You can imagine what the result is on the highway when winter tires are picking up every little piece and shooting it out the rear of the car in front of you at 100km/h (60mph for all you Yanks'!). I've had the clear bra and it's absolutely the best thing I ever purchased. It's barely noticeable, extremely durable and fade resistant. It retails for around $700 for the hood, bumper and mirrors, but cost is around $300 so try and negotiate.