bigbuzuki

What's wrong with the recommended Porsche factory fill lubricant Mobil 1?

The actual key does not have to be in the ignition. The comfort settings can be set with the plastic Kessy fob in the ignition.

I had the service tech go for a test ride in my car and he witnessed the sub idle tremor as we were coming to a stop. His explanation was that it is the transfer case / transmission holding gear which subsequently loads the engine at low speed prior to coming to a stop. Once the gear is released the idle recovers. All this happens in less than a second. He said it was part of the self learning characteristics of the drive system and alot of city type driving will cause the vehicle to behave this way. He didn't consider this as a fault due to no fault codes being logged and the tremor experienced during the sub idle he considered negligible. I am happy with the status quo as they renewed my Porsche factory extended warranty for another year, which gives me piece of mind just in case this sub idle tremor is a precursor to my engine / drive line dropping dead. :P

Its only for about one second just as the car pulls up to a stop, the motor shudders as the revs dip below nominal and then recovers. The dealer says its normal but it just doesn't feel right. Any other Cayenne owners experience this?

I have noticed that every time I come to a stop in my vehicle, the idle slightly dips below the normal idle speed causing the car to shudder and then the idle recovers back to normal. I have had all 8 coils replaced recently but the car still exhibits this sub idle routine when I am coming to a stop with the transmission in drive and foot on the brake. Is this normal behaviour on anyone elses Cayenne? This linked post describes the same symptom. Click here Any techs out there care to comment on how this torque bracket can cause the idle to drop. :help: I would appreciate if anyone else can confirm or deny this behaviour on their Cayenne as the car is currently in the workshop for a service and would be a good time to get this fixed. Thanks.

My key fob flashes green as well. This is normal when the fob is transmitting by pressing any of the remote buttons.

Mudman, Regarding the warranty that didn't cover your defects, was it a Porsche factory extended warranty or was it a third party warranty?

The transmission 1st gear start is normal when the air temperature is cold. (winter months) It is designed to act this way so the catalytic convertors can heat up quicker in order to maintain emmision targets.

Looks a little ominous to me. I would visually check your coolant level at the reservoir bottle to begin with. A cooling system pressure check may be in order here to confirm if indeed this is a coolant leak issue. I had 2 sources of coolant leakage on my Cayenne. One was from the coolant pipes and the other from a porous water pump. Good luck.

Try using a Microfibre cloth. I keep one in a protective satchel in the centre console compartment for such occasions. I have found them to be the best. ;)

This is for a PCM 2.0 cd based navigation, I do not know if the 2.1 PCM is the same. 1. Remove the 2 small torx screws on the top cover, forward edge. 2. There are 2 tabs interlocked, one on each side, on the bottom edge of the top cover towards the front, you can lever a screwdriver at those points with a twisting motion to seperate the top cover from the bottom cover. 3. The cd drive mechanism is physically mounted on the underside of the top cover so carefully lift the top cover and disconnect the cd connector from the main board. Hope this helps.

Both my door mirror courtesy lights are not working. (I9TF option). Does anyone have any info on how to disassemble the door mirrors in order to get to the courtesy lights that are embedded within? Thanks

Had some luck with rectifying the fault on the PCM. With the defect active I began taking some DC voltage measurements from the test port connector on the board. I noticed that the DC voltages were not stable and kept fluctuating. I began flexing the PC board gently and noticed that the voltages became stable when the board was pressed around the ST10F269-T6 chip. I reheated the solder on all the power pins of the same chip and WELLA, the orange LED illuminated and all is well. Special thanks to TwinCharger for the advice of reflowing the solder. The ST10F269-T6 chip is marked with a red A and the power pins are marked in yellow. The test port connector is at position B. Unit has been reinstalled in the vehicle and has operated perfectly since the repair. :cheers:

The car side of the wiring is ok as I have had the unit out of the car and on a bench with a power supply connected to it and have witnessed the same fault. On the bench the unit powered up perfectly with active display and was able to select different modes. Then on another occasion the unit shows the same fault, ie blank display, the cd spins up for about 30 secs and stops, and the orange light emitting diode (led) is not on. The main board is double sided and a little complex to visually trace back the power circuit. This is where the circuit diagrams would be handy. I don't believe the unit is losing all its power because with the fault present, the cd spins up ok, the fibre optic led flashes on the back of the unit and the display illuminates with the backlight although no picture or letters are present. I have had the unit on a bench with a power supply connected and with the fault present it still draws about 500mA of current.

The PCM 2.0 unit in my 2003 Cayenne has been intermittently playing up recently, powering up on some occasions and not on others. The model of the unit is BE 6635. I have experience in the electronics industry and my curiosity got the better of me and so I pulled the unit forward from the dash and opened the lid for a visual inspection. I reasoned that maybe I have a suspect dry solder joint etc. As fate would have it the unit worked perfectly when it was naked in front of me. There was an orange LED on the main board which was illuminated when the unit was on and I could see the red fiber optic light flashing on and off at the back of the fiber plug. The display was working along with all the other functions. On another occasion when the unit was not working, I noticed that the orange led was not illuminated on the main board. Power was still available as the nav cd would spin up for about 30 secs and then stop. When the unit would recover from its non working state, the OBC info such as the average fuel used, distance traveled, time since reset info, would all be reset to zero. I suspect the orange led not illuminating is a clue as to what is wrong with the PCM 2 unit. I tried getting circuit diagrams and service literature from Porsche and Harman/Becker with no luck as the item is proprietary blah,blah,blah. They will sell me a new or exchange unit for a lot of money since I am out of warranty. I have attached a picture with the orange led location (yellow arrow) for reference. Does anyone have any info they can share on this? :help: Thanks.

Can you open the rear glass with the wireless remote button?

Part Number: 95555212701 - Instrument panel - Glove box - Lock housing Lock housing 2003 - 2008 Part Number: 95555212800 - Instrument panel - Glove box - Catch Catch 2003 - 2008 Both parts are approx $12 USD each.

The 2003, 2005, and 2008 owners manuals inform that both sockets in the luggage compartment are protected by a single 20 amp fuse located in the left hand dash fuse panel. Fuse is located in position 5. The footwell sockets are also protected by a single 20 amp fuse, left panel position 3. The centre console and cigarette lighter socket also has a single 20 amp fuse for protection, left panel position 1.

Reconfiguring back to a stock setup by removing the MoBridge from the MOST loop would be good to try, but then you would need to reprogram via PIWIS for CDC disable. :o I would be disconnecting main battery power for 1 minute and reconnect prior to doing anything more drastic. Hopefully this may reset your system.

Good to see that the relays and pumps are serviceable. I would suggest that you also confirm that both the relay mounting bases (car side) also have the correct voltage and ground to actuate the relays when the pumps should be running.

If the pumps do run by jumpering the 3 and 5 terminals, check that the relays are actually serviceable as well by applying correct voltage between pins 1 and 2 and confirming continuity between pins 3 and 5 with a multimeter.

Is the upgrade worth it? You be the judge. Go for a test drive and report back with your views. One thing for sure is that the Turbo will make you feel different. :drive:

How much over 80? Have you checked your coolant level at the reservoir bottle?

Order the blank key and find another dealer who can cut keys. ;) I also found this to be a more cost effective option than ordering via the VIN.

I had fluid leaking (although not as heavy as yours) from the coolant pipes and also a porous water pump. I had both items replaced about six months ago and I haven't had any coolant loss since then. If your coolant pipes are the plastic type and have not been replaced, expect cracking at about 80,000km or more, maybe a little longer for colder climates. Here in hot Australia mine had cracked at 90,000km. I have been told that some coolant loss is normal especially on the turbo models due to the high operating temperatures. Still I would have thought this would be a minor loss. Is there any sign of leaking coolant under the vehicle when parked for a period of time? Is there any wetness on the cover panels under the engine? Is the coolant reservoir and associated plumbing in good condition? When its all said and done, I still would recommend getting the pipes changed for peace of mind even if they are not cracked at this point. They will eventually fail and the coolant loss is immediate and will require stopping the engine immediately otherwise the engine will fail. I suppose it depends on how long you intend on keeping the vehicle.