mazingerv1

Today, I found tube is not an enclosed one. there is a soft rubber tube around an inclined hard tube from the top. I accessed to the opening of the soft tube by slightly bending it. Then I used a wire to run down the tube (not sure I cleared the blockage or not) Will observe whether the problem persists or not.....

I am able to see the tube. but the tube is a enclosed one, how could you access to the inside of the tube? do you know where exactly the exit of the drainage hole? thanks much!

where exactly is the exit of the drain on the passenger side footwell? do I need to remove the arch liner at the bottom?

I tried to pull it out based on the instructions, wasn't successful I was afraid I would break it if I pull too hard eventually, I asked the service centre to replace it for me.

I eventually found that it is not the pin/socket contact issue. The root caues was the aging/malfunctioning D1S bulb The symptom was very misleading, the"check dipped beam" appears intermittently when I was driving on bumpy road or uphill, but with no consistent pattern. that led me to believe it must be something to do with the pin contact. after numerous tries to ensure the pin contact is right for several months, problem remains. I then turned to my last resort, changing the bulb, the problem is now gone. The rear sensor is what went out in mine. The way I fixed it is that I just disconnected the arm from the suspension. ha. sensor is like 100.00 bucks so I'll just deal with no movement up and down for awhile.

The "Brake Proportioning" problem later evolved into the relay switch problem at the gear shift stick. i.e. you cannot shift from "P" to any gear. I needed to do a manul release of the gear shift stick and drive the car slowly to the service centre Do have the car checked asap. :welcome: See the post above yours - you need to put the car a tester and see what fault codes you have. That message is non-specific -- fault codes are specific. Shazbut.. the closest dealer is so **** far from here. I was just hoping it would be something I could buy and replace myself. It's a full day and a work day at that, it's a real pain in the ***. If you live that far from a dealer or competent shop I would highly suggest you buy the Durametric software - it could save you tons of money.

I have the problem before and I fixed it myself. if it is flickering, you should know which side has the problem. just follow the user manual to pull out the headlight module. The problem is likely the loose contact between the headlight plug and the socket. Pin 5 is for the low beam light. Just clean the metal contact and put back in. Hope this helps.

Thanks ! I fixed it earlier by "improving" the contact at the butt of the detachable button.

I have the same problem. the service center recommend me to replace the starter that cost US$1600 totally. is the cleaning a DIY'able work? any brief procedure would be appreciated. thks much!!

My 2003 Cayenne S' trip counter on the instrument cluster fails to reset other than the trip counter, everything works fine. I believe it is a contact problem ? is the button a detachable one that I can pull it out from the instrument cluster? anyone has come across this problem? any relevant info is appreciated. thks !

Would anyone share with me the 2003 Cayenne S Headlamp pin assignment (12 pin connector)?

2003 Cayenne S Msg board displays "Warning - Brake Proportioning", ABS light on, PSM off... Gear shift lever got locked at the "P" position. Can't drive the car. After 5-10 mins, everything goes back to normal. This had happened 3 times. What had caused the problem? is it still safe to drive it? Any relevant info is much appreciated !!

I had a bad contact with the female connector of the indicator light, so it intermittently shows "check indicator light" which is extremely annoying. I bought the headlight wire harness but I found it impossibe to replace the parts without removing the air filter box. So I give up the idea of replacing the wire harness. what a waste of money on buying the harness ! I didn't bend the male pin to improve the contact, instead, i insert a small toothpick into the upper gap and the lower gap of the female pin to make sure it clamp the male pin real tight, it works perfectly now.

mine is 16.8MPG

I blindly tried for 30 min, now I know how to do it. aligning the edge of the screwdriver upright. insert the screwdriver at 45 degree and push a little button.

I have the same broken glove box lock problem. following the instruction to remove the trim above, I have access to the big hole. I inserted a small screwdriver at 45deg over the latch. But how to release the latch? what specific action is needed? push something? any relevant info is much appreciated ! Mudman, I am unable to create a gap large enough to get even the smallest of screwdrivers anywhere near the latch. I removed all screws from around the glove box. I also removed the fuse box cover on the side of the dash in an attempt to access the latch from the side. I have also tried to access it from behind by the footwell. From what I can tell, the latch is actually inside the glove box and there doesn't appear to be any access to the inside of the glove box from the outside. In fact, this glove box seems to be so secure that when I do get this thing fixed, I'm going to move all my valuables from the safe inside my home to the glove box in my Cayenne. Update: Here's the deal... when you remove the trim piece from above the glove box, it not only exposes three screws, it exposes several little holes. If you insert a screwdriver at about a 45 degree angle in the largest hole which is directly over the latch, you can manipulate the top of the latch manually and the glove box opens. (don't share this with any bad guys) This gives access to two more screws that allow complete removal of the glove box. After disassembling the push button / lock piece, I discovered that a large section of the plastic mechanism had broken into bits so that pushing the button no longer pulls the cable that releases the latch. It now looks as though I'll have to replace the entire assembly. But, at least I now know the secret to getting the #$@%!! glove box open.

I am interested in the service manual as well. I am based in HK. can you email me what is required at hotmail.com?

I have the same problem. have you guys fixed it? and how?

Pls search the forum, this has been discussed before and instructions are available. However, I tried follow the instruction to remove it, no matter how hard I pulled it, no success. Finally, I asked Porsche service center to replace it for me.

I had exactly this problem 2 weeks ago. The DME module went bad. Towed it to the service agent, replaced it, it works fine now

I have the same problem, my Cayenne S lost power. I was told by the service agent that the coils went bad. after the coil change, it works fine now.

i try to pull the knob off following the procedure, it doesn't come out. do i need to pull it with big force? I was afraid I would damaget the gear lever. Pls help ! Thanks!

if the park brake is applied with selector at "D" and with the engine on, would the car move? could you pls confirm this is a proper procedure to take out the shift knob? I want to take it out and reburbish the knob. Thanks a lot!! The procedure is NOT the same... Here's correct procedure for the Cayenne Automatic Shift Knob... 1. Apply park brake 2. Shift selector to drive(car must be running) 3. Firmly pull shift knob off of shaft(do not press selector button on shift knob while doing this) 4. To re-attach knob...place a short flat head screw driver under button on shift knob to wedge it forward gently while push the knob/shaft back onto the selector rod. Push until it snaps to place. 5. test for proper function and shift back to park before releasing park brake. :clapping:

Hi guys, does anyone know how to take out the gear lever boot for a Cayenne S 2003? any relevant info or pointer is much appreciated. thks!