1999Porsche911

People's description of sound varies from one to another. One person's whine is another person's growl. Without a sound file or hearing it in person, there is not way to determine whether it is normal or not. However, 1st gear is a very low ratio and will make more noise than other gears. There should be no noise that could even remotely be described as a bearing.

Yes, disconnecting the battery will always keep your gauge lights from coming on. :lol: I assume you ment to also tell us that you reconnected the battery?

What codes told you that both sensors were dead? Very unlikey.

Yes, the low speed should work on both fans, so you should eventually fix the problem. However, driving the car in the meantime will do no harm as you can switch the fans on manually now that you have done the mod.

If you haven't eliminated the low speed relay as the problem, you may be wasting your time and money. Just switch relay 19 with relay 21 and if the problem moves from the right fan to the left fan, just buy a new relay. 4th row, position 3 and 5 on relay carrier in footwell.

I would first check your low speed relay in the footwell panel. Switch the left one with the right one.

Make sure key is removed. If they do not eventually go off, you may have a bad ignition switch.

The OP is talking about the engine compartment fan. To test it, warm up the engine and then unplug the engine compartment sensor cable from the sensor. The fan should start immediately. The sensor is on the passenger side of the engine, on top, between the first and second intake tubes. In normal operation, this fan only comes on when the engine compartment temperature reaches something like 180F. Loren has posted the exact specs somewhere on this forum if you need the precise details.

Make sure he replaces the O rings with the tubes. Bad O rings most commonly cause the leaks.

I have made several 1500+ mile, non stop trips in my Porsches. Why own one if you are not going to drive it like you would any other car? They are fun cars for long hauls.

The first thing I would do is flush both the oil system and coolant system. It will then be easy to see if you have any intermixing problems or it was just leftover from your oil cooler problem. Fast and cheap.

Check the fuel pump and ignition relay fuse. You may have blown one of them when changing the O2 sensor.

That is an incorrect statement. Not All and NOT even many Porsche's experience this problem. It also IS a condition to be concerned about if the sludge is there all the time. You may be right that the filler tube is the first place the sludge will appear, but it does not stop there. This sludge can and often accumulates in the areas of the engine where oil fumes go but flow does not exist and areas adjacent to oil flow. Coolant consumption has nothing to do with this condition as the moisture is not from the coolant but from the atmosphere. Bringing the engine to full operating temperature for coolant and oil on a regular basis will eliminate the problem. People who drive short trips on a regular basis and do not bring the engine up to temperature and live in humid climates have a greater risk of sludge and subsequent engine damage.

You have already been told the 2 ways to prevent it. Putting in fresh oil will not eliminate it from coming back. The cause of sludge is moisture and/or contaminants in the oil. If you drive your car for short trips that do not allow the temperature to rise to normal for a length of time, you will not remove the moisture in the oil that accumulated during the last engine shut down, High relative humidity increases the amount of moisture entering the engine as it cools.

Chances are, if the sludge is appearing in your oil fill tube, it is accumulating in other areas of your engine. To prevent this, you must bring your engine to maximum temperature for longer periods of time. There is no other way of eliminating it short of eliminating all humidity the car is exposed to. This also means you have substantial moisture in your cylinders at startup which is the leading cause of engine wear.

I have never noticed a problem with my cars, but those extremely cold temps can play havock on a lot of things. As we all know, those cold temperatures can cause problems with performance on any simuarly shaped devices that stick out the front of a body.

I would be more concerned with your low oil pressure.

.032 is fine. .063 is way to big of a gap for your car. The Bosch Platinum 4's are the only plugs I know of that come with 1.6 mm gap. This is a compromise plug for longevity and performance. You do not need these.

Well, the only part of the clutch system that is moving and would most likely create a noise when the opedal is fully depressed is the throwout bearing (release bearing). In most case, is the bearing is bad, you will begin to hear the noise as you depress the pedal. BTW: A clutch is considered "engaged" when the pedal is NOT depressed. Engaged means that the clutch disc is in full contact with the flywheel, therefore engaging the transmission to the engine.

If telling someone they are wrong and trying to educate them on the subject is being hostile, then I will continue to be so when necessary. You'll never find me practicing political correctness. :D

Are you saying that you get a continuos squeek while the clutch is "ebgaged"? This means that the pedal is all the way up. Or do you mean that there is a squeek while either engaging or disengaging the clutch? If the later, most probable cause is a bad release lever. Porsche has a very poor design for this. Unless it is binding on release, other than the noise, it will cause no problems for you. There is a TSB issued for this for your 99. Replace with the new design when you need a new clutch kit. A more accurate decription would be helpful.

Oh really, so what determines exhaust temp. Based on your comment all you have to do is wait for exhaust temps temps to rise. Hate to tell U, exhaust temps will run cooler when rich. You are partially correct, but the coolant temperature sensor controls almost exclusively the amount of fuel enrichment during times of cold running. More rich lower exhaust temps. O2 sensor does not come up to temp, open loop mode. Drive the car under laod, coolant temp comes up faster, sarts running more lean, exhaust temps come up quicker, O2 sensor goes into sending based on temp, and it now is in closed loop mode. The air injection system pumps air into the exhaust system, bypassing the engine entirely. Your O2 esnors are also electrically heated. Educate yourself on the system and you'll learn how it works. Better yet, hook up your scanner and measure the time it takes the car to go closed loop, both ways. I agree the pump bypasses the entire combustion process, so now tell me if the entire combusted mixture is not lean how the exhaust temps go up! Air pump simply dilutes the rich exhaust gasses with more air diluting the hydro carbons in an already burned fuel mixture. Combustion already took place. BTW since the coolant temp has not come up the ECU will not have enough input based on the table to actually make the car run at the proper 14.7 ratio, until the temp has come up. True closed loop mode is when the ECU can make very minor adjustments to the mixture. Otherwords a fully warmed engine, based on the coolant temp, O2 input, air temp, air flow etc. will it be in true closed lop mode where minor adjustments can be made. No one is debating if the O2 sensor is heated or not! But when in true closed loop mode the O2 sensor will have more fuel ratio input then when the engine is cold. The secondary air pump is strictly an emission device to ward off the rich fuel pollutants. when the engine is cold! As far as a scan tool your tool measures exhaust temps and exahust emissions? I bet the tool you are talking about only shows the O2 sensor coming up to temps and sending input to the ECU! So no education needed! I guess you have no interest in learning. The fact is, whether the engine temperature is at 50F or 200F, once in closed loop, you have a balanced air/fuel ratio. There really is no more to it than that. The is no "almost" closed loop" or "true" closed loop. You have either an open or closed loop, period. The O2 sensors do not look at the engine temperature, air temperature, timing or anything else but the level of oxygen passing by it. All they are interested in doing is telling the computer to either add or pull fuel if the mixture is not balanced. There is no comlex calculation made by the sensors, just a simple chemical reaction that either raises or lowers the sensor's voltage. If you cannot accept that as fact, there is no reason for me to give you a chemistry lessen on what happens when air is introduced to a mixture of CO and HC.

Oh really, so what determines exhaust temp. Based on your comment all you have to do is wait for exhaust temps temps to rise. Hate to tell U, exhaust temps will run cooler when rich. You are partially correct, but the coolant temperature sensor controls almost exclusively the amount of fuel enrichment during times of cold running. More rich lower exhaust temps. O2 sensor does not come up to temp, open loop mode. Drive the car under laod, coolant temp comes up faster, sarts running more lean, exhaust temps come up quicker, O2 sensor goes into sending based on temp, and it now is in closed loop mode. The air injection system pumps air into the exhaust system, bypassing the engine entirely. Your O2 esnors are also electrically heated. Educate yourself on the system and you'll learn how it works. Better yet, hook up your scanner and measure the time it takes the car to go closed loop, both ways. Once in closed loop, the O2 sensors will override any fuel setting being set because of coolant temperature.

Hi 1999Porsche911, does the Boxster have a secondary air pump, specifically the 987 Boxster? Thanks. Yup. There have been air pumps in one form or another on cars since the 70's.

As long as your secondary air pump is working properly, the difference in the amount of time it takes to go closed loop with your engine at idle versus driving away is immeasurable. The system will go closed loop in approximately the same amount of time, therefore, eliminating any addition time spent running rich. Therefore, the "running rich" argument is untrue. Open or closed loop is not dependent on engine temperature but on exhaust temperature.