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1999Porsche911

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Everything posted by 1999Porsche911

  1. You car does not have Egas. Get yourself a scanner. You should not be without one if you drive any newer car. You will be able to read the air flow that the MAF is registering. The MAF can last a long long time, or it can go bad in a short amount of time. Elements in the air that pass over the sensor can sometimes make it dirty and it will not function propery. I am a believer that too many MAF's are replaced unnecessarily. You can clean the sensor by spraying it with an electrical cleaner and letting dry. I personally have cleaned mine in the Porsche and other cars by simply pouring rubbing alcohol over it and letting it air dry. I have 45,000 miles on my car and still have the orginal MAF. If your MAF goes bad, you should get a check engine light. Your scanner will be able to determine if the fault is caused by the MAF. You can get the exact Bosche MAF sensor ffrom several auto supply outlets and on the internet for less than $300.
  2. Yes, he is correct that it should have play in it. Exactly 15 mm left and right and should return to center when released. However, it should NOT make any noise. A spring could be broken. I still however, would not conclude it is the flywheel until you personally hear the noise coming from that area ofr the car. Jack it up and get under it and listen when someone turn the car off. You might be looking at the wrong thing.
  3. Tell him that the rattle from the flywheel is not normal and tell him to test it. That will mean pulling the tranny apart from the engine and testing the twist of the dual flywheel. If he refuses, go higher. I would also confirm that it IS coming from that are by having them turn the car off when on the rack with you under the tranny listening.
  4. Well maqcuda, I better get my car in for service imediately as I have never lost or burned any oil. Nor have 6 of the 7 other guys I run with, nor my previous Porsches. I guess since you are in the service department, you are unaware of those Porsches that run the way they were designed. You have confirmed my belief that most service managers try to take the easy way out rather than identifying and correcting the problem.
  5. Have you had any idleing problems. If the oil filler tube was leaking, you would have improper vacuum.
  6. What filler tube are the talking about? The oil filler tube isn't even close to the tranny/engine junction. Anyway...any leak should have been corrected by the dealer. There should be NO leaks.
  7. 4,000 mile trip in November and did not lose any oil. Drive it daily and do not lose any oil. Don't drive it and do not lose any oil. Most engines DO NOT use 1 quart of oil every 1,500 miles or even 5,000 miles.
  8. Update; Got it back last night, NO RMS, said the filler tube had leaked R&R done. Compression check normal. I don't know if I believe them, so I'll just follow it along I guess. No RMS!!! No wonder you're losing so much oil, Hee hee! Glad for you.
  9. That is the correct procedure. Be careful not to let fuel drip onto the cigarette in your mouth.
  10. Try shutting it off by disconnecting the negative battery cable. If the same condition exists, then it is not in the ectrical system.
  11. Why would you not worry when it stops using oil? He is either joking with you or has no idea what he is talking about. Although burning as much oil as you do will not effect the engines life as long as you keep putting more oil in, it is both a pain in the *** and not normal. I am sure that the dealer will verbally tell you that it is nothing to worry about, but see if he will acknowledge your problem in writing and state in writing that it is normal. Bottom line is, is if you are not leaking oil you are burning it and that means the oil is leaking past the rings. That means the rings are not functioning properly as they were designed. Like I said above, it doesn't mean you have a greater chance of engine failure, but it does mean that your engine is not running up to it's designed capacity because of a compression leak. The drop in performance can not be measured by you or me, but cylinder leakage equals less compression which equals less power. I would have to guess that not all 6 cylinders are burning oil, but maybe just one or to. You might be able to identify which one by looking at the plugs or at least which bank by looking at the amount of soot in the tail pipes.
  12. What is the voltage reading on the scanner for the MAF? Or the g/sec reading depending on what it reports? Also, look at the voltage graph for the O2 sensors (Primary) to see if they are quickly switching between approximately .05 volts and .85 volts after the engine is warm and idleing at about 2,000 rpm. A slow voltage change on Bank 1's o2 sensor will identify it as the culprit. Normally when you get a P1123 you also get a P1125 which is the error for Bank 2. You, however are just showing that bank 1 is running rich and if this is true then it is unlikely that the MAF is at fault because that will effect BOTH banks. You could, however be right at the maximum LEAN thresshold on both O2 sensors, but bank 1's is a little more worn than is bank 2's and therefore you have not gotton the error P1125 yet but will eventually. Knowing what the MAF reading is will be a great help in more diagnosis. Need reading after engine is warmed up and at idle. I also need the exact RPM at idle.
  13. <<<<The trunk emergency release is located under the right headlamp. Headlamp must be removed to access. Though some claim to be able to access from the wheel well between lining and front fender sheet metal. Suggest you reroute release to behind the front tow hook plug.>>>>> Rather than simplly ASSUME it is difficult to get to, I suggest you take a look at the emergency release cable for the engine cover sometime. It takes no more than 1 minute to get to it and open the trunk. Simply lift the lense from the botton with a flat tool (I use a wooden paint stirrer) and grab the cable with a wire and pull. Slip the cable back under the lense and your finished. You only need to pry up the lense maybe 1/4 inch to get the cable. Use a flashlight to see the cable.
  14. There is no such thing as lifetime antifreeze. The fluid may last a lifetime, but not the **** in the coolin. system. Changing it every 3 years of so is highly recommended to flush out al the crap.
  15. Decreasing the camber will increase oversteer. You can balance that out to some degree by going with wide tires and a liitle more pressure or increase the understeer at the same time. For some one driving their car in a spirited way, but not taking it to the extreme on corners, I suspect that you could reduce the negative camber substantially without any noticable effect on handling. This would also greatly increase the life of the rear tires which now last approxiamtely 10,000 miles because of the camber setting causing the inside half oif the tires to wear faster. Most of my driving is high speed but light cornering and I may try cutting the camber in half next time I replace all 4 tires to see how the tire life increaese. However, if I was younger and more crazy with my driving, I would keep it stock for a little bit of safety.
  16. You can so it, but it will effect the handling of the car in corners. If you do alot of track or driving that includes alot of corners, the stock setup is the best comprimise. You need a negatice camber when corering so the ousde of the tires do not wear out. When cornering, the outide tire should be flat agains the road surface. Last time I checked, my camber settings were -1.04 and -0.96.
  17. <<<<On my 2001 330Ci all you have to remove is one screw (half-turn) to release a small (maybe 6"x6") cover plate to get to the drain plug. Did they change that? My wife will possibly be getting a 2006 M3, just curious..>>>>> I have the 2001 740 IL and the cover plate is easy to unscrew, but it is necessary to jack the car off the ground so it can be removed. (Unless you want to bend the hell out of it).
  18. As far as Jiffy Lube (or any other place like that), you watch everything they do, so it's not a worry. Oil change is not brain surgery and as long as the filter in installed and tightened and the plug is installed with the metal gasket and all the oil is put in the engine, nothing can go wrong. I do it myself, but I use Midas (cost $20) tp change the BMW's oil for me cuz its quicker and I don't have to remove the shroud while I'm laying on my back.
  19. >>>>Thanks for the reply and welcome Orient! I'm 99% sure the 997 Service is at 20K>>>> Even if it is, I sure wouldn't wait that long before changing the oil. One of the reasons for changing the oil is to look at its condition. It can tell you alot about the operation of the engine. (such as excesive moisture, burning. etc). I would recommend at least annually or 10,000 miles (at most), whichever comes sooner. Changing the oil is cheap and easy to do. It will cost you $60 and less than 1/2 hour of your time. If you don't want to do it yourself, get the oil and filter ($60.00) and take the car to a Jiffy Lube and they will do it for $20. Total cost is $80.00. I have no idea why people would pay the dealer to do this.
  20. <<<<Do you add air only once a year? pardon me, I must have misunderstood... For myself, I have to add 1.45 psi per tire once a month to respect the 36 [front] : 44 [rear] psi levels>>>> Yes...only once a year. This includes long (4,000 miles or more) trips as well as around town. Even in my other cars, if I had to add air every month, I would consider it a problem.
  21. I read about people losing tire pressure in short periods f time, but I have never had a problem on my Porsche. I run 36/44 psi and I may have to add air once a year, and ony a small amount. This is in an area that experiences temps from -20F to +90F and includes alot of high speed driving.
  22. I get about 10,000 out of the RE 750's, althought I pushed the last set to 12,000 because I was on the otherside of the country when the SHOULD have been replaced. I replace the fronts about every 25,000 -30,000.
  23. I think I saw that in a 3 Stooge's skit 40 years ago. The car would not stop moving because of the sloshing of fluid.
  24. They are not N rated that I know of. Don't fall for that rating as a requirement for tires for your Porsche. 4 of the P-cars I hang with use them and we love them. I am on my second set.
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