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Hi all I am looking at buying a 997.2 and was wondering if anyone with a membership to carfax would be willing to search the vin for me? If so, please PM me and I will forward the vin. Many thanks Rick
Well I have just completed a major project. I have installed the LN dual race IMS, RMS, AOS, flywheel and clutch. It was a big job but doable.
If you go with the LN bearing, the tool kit and instructions make that part of the job relatively straight forward.
I am selling the toolkit if you are interested. This is my thinking... The toolkit is expensive. I paid $350. I would like to sell it for $300. I am happy to pay $50 for the one time use of the tool and then the next person can sell it for $250 if they like and so on.
Best wishes. Let me know. Cheers Rick
Hi All I am in the very final phase of a major project for my 2000 996 C2 cab with about 100k miles. I replaced the IMS, RMS, AOS, flywheel and clutch. A nice winter project! As with most things porsche, one needs patience, because there is always a fair amount of reaching and feeling and the need for just the right combination of tool and angle to get the job done. Following the workshop manual and many different posters here at renntech and rennlist and from youtube, I put the car on jackstands 24" above the floor. A lift would be better. I pulled the transmission, clutch and flywheel. The top transmission bolt requires a u joint and two foot extension and you need to reach around both sides of the tranny in order to place the socket on the bolt. I had bought the very expensive LN engineering dual race IMS(for my car) for about $800 and the pro tool kit for about $350. The Tool kit made the setup of TDC and locking the cam and pulling the bearing and installing new bearing relatively easy. I used a basic CPVC type 4"plumbing cap and carefully drove new RMS to 13mm from crankcase flange. The AOS was a bear to remove in one piece due to original permanent hose clamps. I was able to remove old AOS and install the new one from under the car using new fuel line hose clamps for the two small coolant hoses and a ~11/4" screw hose clamp for the bottom bellows hose. I used the old AOS to practice just the right way to install the AOS into position. Re installing the tranny takes patience. You need to be methodical about lining it up with an equal gap between tranny and engine all the way around, and that the bolt holes are lining up. It took me a while but it came together. I did a flush/bleed of the clutch and brakes, the conventional two person way, and it worked like a charm, no power bleeder. Just do not let master reservoir fall below max because the clutch pickup is high up in the reservoir. It is a big job, but doable. It was nice to be able go to work and leave it from time to time. I also had the tires dismounted and I am having the rims powder coated satin black for a new look. Cheers Rick
Hi All I just flushed/bled my clutch and brakes after reinstalling my tranny were I had disconnected the slave cylinder. I used the two person conventional method and it worked like a charm. I attached a clear hose from the nipple to a bottle where the hose end is emersed in fluid. Person one (wife) presses pedal, I open bleeder nipple and allow some fluid to flow, then close bleeder nipple then person one releases pedal, repeat. In the case of clutch pedal, person one returns pedal to normal position for the first few bleed cycles. I kept the fluid in the master full and had no problems, no power bleeder.
Hi Rod The vertex instructional video shows how to pry the bearing seals out with a very small/fine screw driver type tool. It is that easy, and then simply repack with grease by hand. It is easier to repack the bearing when the flex disk has been removed and the shaft hangs down. With the tranny in neutral it is easy to turn the shaft. I am pretty sure thou, that the bearing seals can be removed and the bearing repacked with the flex disk and shaft connected.
I have two 2008 cayenne base, and the center support failed about the same time on both cars. I used the Vertex solution, because there is really nothing wrong with the shaft or the shaft bearing. Following the video tutorial, it is not a difficult job, thou it takes longer for a slow poke like me than the video tutorial would imply. In this order, loosen the flex disc bolts, remove the bracket support and cut away the original bracket, remove flex disc, clean the outer bearing surface, repack the bearing, install the new flex disc, install the new vertex support and bracket. The weak link now becomes the bearing itself. There was very little or no grease in my bearings, and they were in good shape. Now they are repacked with grease and I hope the shaft lasts at least as long as a replacement shaft would have. One could even make a case for repacking that bearing from time to time, say every 50k.
Hi All I am also looking at this lift (quick jack 5000xl) for my 911 and Cayenne. Regarding the lifting height, I read a max height of 21". Is this enough height to change the clutch on the 911? Is there enough height at 21"to drop the engine and/or transmission. many thx for any input. Rick
Hi all Can anyone tell me the correct size (Torx bit?) socket insert for removing the caliper? The manual calls it (NR.33 socket wrench insert, multiple tooth with pin guide). Thx. Rick
RicksCarrera posted a topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)Hi all I have a 2000 996 cab. The top function is intermitant when using the switch, but works fine using the key in the door. I am thinking I have a faulty intermitant switch, or the ground at the park brake is intermitant. When pressing the switch, the top either works or it does not work, it does not fail during operation. When the top does not function using the switch, the dash light still illuminates and there is a slow 'clicking' sound, so it seems the control module is getting power. Does anyone know if, when using the key in door for cab top function, the ground is bypassed? If so, perhaps the problem is with the ground, and not the switch. Thank you to anyone with thoughts on this. Cheers Rick PS I have topped the hydraulic fluid level
You need the workshop manuals. They detail pretty much any fault and the required service. Also the durametric does have a function for fault codes and a calibration function that works for me.
RicksCarrera replied to rlim's topic in 9PA, 9PA1 (Cayenne, Cayenne S, Cayenne Turbo, Cayenne Turbo S)The 2008 model also has a a/c drain duct that protrudes through the firewall on the front passenger side. It can be reached from the engine compartment to the firewall on the front passenger side. It is a rubber duct/spigot the size of a straw with a flap that can stick closed which causes a backup of water in the air vent systems and water dripping on the carpet. No service is required, just reach in and ensure the duct can drain.
RicksCarrera replied to kptc's topic in 9PA, 9PA1 (Cayenne, Cayenne S, Cayenne Turbo, Cayenne Turbo S)You absolutely can reach the ac/heater drain tube on a 2008 V6 Cayenne from the top. Lift the engine hood and reach for the tube which protrudes from the engine firewall ( passenger side top of the footwell ). Use a flashlight to help locate it, then reach for it. I did and the water came gushing out! Cheers Rick
RicksCarrera replied to kptc's topic in 9PA, 9PA1 (Cayenne, Cayenne S, Cayenne Turbo, Cayenne Turbo S)Hi I was also noticing a wet drivers side flootwell, not during rain. During my trouble shooting I noticed a little water dripping onto the footwell from above, but just a little, and not enough to make the footwell wet. I was worried that a water drain line from the heater/ac unit was leaking and a big job might be required removing the dash and glove box etc. to get at the ac unit. Further troubleshooting revealed that there was some water being pushed out the left rear passenger ac/heater vent at the floor under the drivers seat. At this point I realized what was happening, and thank goodness it is very simple. The AC water drain was plugged causing the water extracted from the air in the ac/heater unit to backup and for some reason this water was mostly blowing through the left side plastic ac/heater vent lines and leaking at the low point in the drivers footwell with the remainder of the moisture pushing out the vent under the drivers seat. Some have this happen on the passenger side. The ac/heater water drain is located on the passenger side footwell forward on the firewall. The drain slopes through the firewall and you can see it when you lift the hood and shine a light at the firewall on the passenger side. You can reach for the drain hose. There is a small flap. With my baby finger I lifted the flap and about a pint of water gushed out. Simple as that, plugged ac water drain cleared...no more wet floor. Cheers Rick
Hi all I am going to re and re the spark plugs on my 2008 V6 Cayenne. I have the shop manual but was wondering about the technique for pulling the coils...I don't want to break them. Is this a straight out pull and how much force would be required. I do not have the special coil puller tool but was wondering if a coat hanger wire tightly wrapped around coil will work...I'll report on that. Thx for any info. Rick
Hello All I was browsing online for brake pads and I noticed ceramic type pads that boast 80% less dust, and then the standard semi metallic. I have not inquired about whether rotors need to change, and I would not change rotors to accommodate new pads. Does anyone have experience with the ceramic type..are they compatible with steel rotors, how do they stop and wear and is there dramatically less dust? Thx Rick Thx to all that replied. I decided on the Hawk HPS semi-metalic and have changed both front and rear. I was able to reuse the sensors by prying them out carefully. So far so good!