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RicksCarrera

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About RicksCarrera

  • Rank
    Contributing Member

Profile Fields

  • From
    washington
  • Porsche Club
    No
  • Present cars
    1999 996 cab
  • Former cars
    1971 911T<br />
    1971 TR-6

Recent Profile Visitors

1,223 profile views
  1. Hi all I am looking at buying a 997.2 and was wondering if anyone with a membership to carfax would be willing to search the vin for me? If so, please PM me and I will forward the vin. Many thanks Rick
  2. Hi Jim

    Well I have just completed a major project. I have installed the LN dual race IMS, RMS, AOS, flywheel and clutch. It was a big job but doable.

    If you go with the LN bearing, the tool kit and instructions make that part of the job relatively straight forward. 

    I am selling the toolkit if you are interested. This is my thinking... The toolkit is expensive. I paid $350. I would like to sell it for $300. I am happy to pay $50 for the one time use of the tool and then the next person can sell it for $250 if they like and so on.

    Best wishes. Let me know. Cheers Rick

  3. Hi All I am in the very final phase of a major project for my 2000 996 C2 cab with about 100k miles. I replaced the IMS, RMS, AOS, flywheel and clutch. A nice winter project! As with most things porsche, one needs patience, because there is always a fair amount of reaching and feeling and the need for just the right combination of tool and angle to get the job done. Following the workshop manual and many different posters here at renntech and rennlist and from youtube, I put the car on jackstands 24" above the floor. A lift would be better. I pulled the transmission, clutch and flywh
  4. Hi All I just flushed/bled my clutch and brakes after reinstalling my tranny were I had disconnected the slave cylinder. I used the two person conventional method and it worked like a charm. I attached a clear hose from the nipple to a bottle where the hose end is emersed in fluid. Person one (wife) presses pedal, I open bleeder nipple and allow some fluid to flow, then close bleeder nipple then person one releases pedal, repeat. In the case of clutch pedal, person one returns pedal to normal position for the first few bleed cycles. I kept the fluid in the master full and had no problems
  5. Hi Rod The vertex instructional video shows how to pry the bearing seals out with a very small/fine screw driver type tool. It is that easy, and then simply repack with grease by hand. It is easier to repack the bearing when the flex disk has been removed and the shaft hangs down. With the tranny in neutral it is easy to turn the shaft. I am pretty sure thou, that the bearing seals can be removed and the bearing repacked with the flex disk and shaft connected.
  6. I have two 2008 cayenne base, and the center support failed about the same time on both cars. I used the Vertex solution, because there is really nothing wrong with the shaft or the shaft bearing. Following the video tutorial, it is not a difficult job, thou it takes longer for a slow poke like me than the video tutorial would imply. In this order, loosen the flex disc bolts, remove the bracket support and cut away the original bracket, remove flex disc, clean the outer bearing surface, repack the bearing, install the new flex disc, install the new vertex support and bracket. The weak lin
  7. Hi All I am also looking at this lift (quick jack 5000xl) for my 911 and Cayenne. Regarding the lifting height, I read a max height of 21". Is this enough height to change the clutch on the 911? Is there enough height at 21"to drop the engine and/or transmission. many thx for any input. Rick
  8. Hi all Can anyone tell me the correct size (Torx bit?) socket insert for removing the caliper? The manual calls it (NR.33 socket wrench insert, multiple tooth with pin guide). Thx. Rick
  9. Hi all I have a 2000 996 cab. The top function is intermitant when using the switch, but works fine using the key in the door. I am thinking I have a faulty intermitant switch, or the ground at the park brake is intermitant. When pressing the switch, the top either works or it does not work, it does not fail during operation. When the top does not function using the switch, the dash light still illuminates and there is a slow 'clicking' sound, so it seems the control module is getting power. Does anyone know if, when using the key in door for cab top function, the ground is bypassed? If so,
  10. You need the workshop manuals. They detail pretty much any fault and the required service. Also the durametric does have a function for fault codes and a calibration function that works for me.
  11. The 2008 model also has a a/c drain duct that protrudes through the firewall on the front passenger side. It can be reached from the engine compartment to the firewall on the front passenger side. It is a rubber duct/spigot the size of a straw with a flap that can stick closed which causes a backup of water in the air vent systems and water dripping on the carpet. No service is required, just reach in and ensure the duct can drain.
  12. You absolutely can reach the ac/heater drain tube on a 2008 V6 Cayenne from the top. Lift the engine hood and reach for the tube which protrudes from the engine firewall ( passenger side top of the footwell ). Use a flashlight to help locate it, then reach for it. I did and the water came gushing out! Cheers Rick
  13. Hi I was also noticing a wet drivers side flootwell, not during rain. During my trouble shooting I noticed a little water dripping onto the footwell from above, but just a little, and not enough to make the footwell wet. I was worried that a water drain line from the heater/ac unit was leaking and a big job might be required removing the dash and glove box etc. to get at the ac unit. Further troubleshooting revealed that there was some water being pushed out the left rear passenger ac/heater vent at the floor under the drivers seat. At this point I realized what was happening, and thank good
  14. Hi all I am going to re and re the spark plugs on my 2008 V6 Cayenne. I have the shop manual but was wondering about the technique for pulling the coils...I don't want to break them. Is this a straight out pull and how much force would be required. I do not have the special coil puller tool but was wondering if a coat hanger wire tightly wrapped around coil will work...I'll report on that. Thx for any info. Rick
  15. Hello All I was browsing online for brake pads and I noticed ceramic type pads that boast 80% less dust, and then the standard semi metallic. I have not inquired about whether rotors need to change, and I would not change rotors to accommodate new pads. Does anyone have experience with the ceramic type..are they compatible with steel rotors, how do they stop and wear and is there dramatically less dust? Thx Rick Thx to all that replied. I decided on the Hawk HPS semi-metalic and have changed both front and rear. I was able to reuse the sensors by prying them out carefully. So far so g
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