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1999Porsche911

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Everything posted by 1999Porsche911

  1. Many iof us have removed the asist spring to obtain better control of the cluch. A single pin holds it to the bracket above the pedal. Make sure you install a nail or cotter pin in the hole in the spring piston that sticks out of the housing BEFORE removing or the spring will pop out.
  2. Hi Loren, I hear it strong below the car, almost below where I seat, that happens only when I use the clutch, like something metallic that needs grease. The clutch system is hydraulic - so there is nothing but fluid below where you sit. Do a search here for oiling or lubricating the clutch spring on the clutch pedal. I tried my car doing a strong sprint from Zero, and no problem at all, it shifted to all gears up & down. Driving slow I hear a dragging noise from the clutch pedal, every time when I push it and release it, also when I arrive to my home, I ask my Son to push the clutch and only when the pedal was in, I heard a noise from the clutch in the engine compartment. Might be the release bearing. (throwout bearing)
  3. I have to put in 10 quarts each time. It holds 10.5 and depends on how you drain it. Angle, how long, etc.
  4. Hey, Perry, let me be really clear. Sorry if it seems terse, but there's a lot of broken telephone on this thread: In high ambient temps, sitting in very slow or stationary urban traffic, the temp as displayed by the OBD can exceed 105C. This is within Porsche's parameters. But I worry about it anyway, hence the original question. When I say the system operates as designed, I mean: The rads are clear. The coolant is less than two years old. The coolant level is correct. The coolant type is correct. The expansion tank cap is new. The fan relays turn the fans on, and switch to high speed when they are supposed to do so (102C or AC on). This means that in the conditions described above, the fans are already on high speed at all times, but I'm still operating at 105 to 108C. When I say that the temperature drops quickly with air flow, I mean that it does so when the car starts moving again. Realizing that I can't manipulate too many variables in the system, I wondered whether the increased surface area and system capacity offered by the GT3 center rad made any difference at all. That's my story. To me, the three reasonable answers would be: Yes, it will help. No, it won't make any difference. Or, stop worrying and trust Stuttgart. ;) Thanks, Bruce. Well, if in fact your fans are running full speed at all times, (double check them individually) then you have a problem elsewhere. I run with AC on and fans running in 100+ stop and go traffic and coolant temperature remains below 200F, as do all the cars I know that have the fan mod. Even climbing Pike's Peak in 85f, my coolant temp never got above 205f. You don't have to do the mod, just ground the 2 high speed relays and run that way for awhile.
  5. No it won't. And your car will not run with a coolant temperature <180F even WITHOUT a thermostat unless you are coasting at speed downhill in cold weather.
  6. The temperature of your coolant is determined by several factors. Volume of flow, line pressure, the speed of flow through radiators, efficiency of radiators, and volume and temperature of air flow through the radiators. There are several other factors, including the density of the fluid, etc. Changing to a thermostat that simply opens at a lower temperature does nothing to change any of these variables.
  7. The 160F thermostat will not keep your engine any cooler. That has been tested many times. You can actually remove the thermostat and you will still see 215F+ in similar conditions, although running with a removed thermostat does help the engine cool down faster when airflow is applied due to do an increase in the volume and reduced pressure of coolant flow. The water pump does not have the flow it needs and airflow past the small radiators at slow speed is not sufficient. Don't waste your time with a lower opening thermostat. You engine cannot run much lower than 190F anyway. Increase air flow and your problem is solved.
  8. Depends on whether you are running with copper plugs or not. However, if the car is running fine, why change? Copper will not last as long as will platinum, but both can last far longer than 30,000 miles, primarily because of unleaded fuel. Some will argue that your plugs have to be worn at 30,000 miles, and they are correct. However, so are plugs with only 1,000 miles. But both are still within operating specs and no harm will be done to your engine. If you are a DIY kinda guy, then change them at your convenience. Otherwise, wait until they start to effect drivability. Depending on how you drive your car, even copper plugs can last 60,000+ miles.
  9. You can pickup a loop connector at most hardware stores, cut the cable at the latch end and crimp the new connector on. Good as new.
  10. As I mentioned in my original post, the cooling system is entirely working as designed. I'm pretty familiar with the car by now and comfortable with this stuff. Have actually been through a fan failure, so I know how that goes. They're both clean and working fine. I share your view on the fan mod. It might work for some, but the coolant temperature rises and falls so quickly with this car that I don't see how prophylactic cooling is going to make much difference in the traffic I drive in, other than letting the engine run cooler for a minute or two longer. A real fix doesn't exist, frankly, IMHO. If you look at how they deal with this stuff in police cars and taxis and military vehicles, the only variables you've got are surface area, air flow and system volume: More rad, more fluid, more air. We can add only a little volume and surface area, and can only control airflow with motion. The dream solution would be a fan design that moved more air, and fan motors that can deal with the load. Do you like make things more completcated than necessary? :o It works for ALL. Street or track. It is not that the fans do not push enough air. It is the fact that they do not turn on soon enough to full speed. I disagree with you. That's my right. My own experience tells me that your suggestion will not work for my needs, and your aggressiveness does nothing for your credibility. If your water pump is working within spec and your radiators are not blocked with debris or damaged, it will work without doubt. I can't tell you how many trackers keep the fans running and maintain engine temperatures well below what you are getting. My aggressiveness is to put an emphasis on what WILL and DOES work, contrary to what your opinion is so others know there is a real world work around to high engine temperature. As far as your statement that the cooling system is working as designed....isn't that your problem? As designed the high speed fans do not turn on until engine temperature reaches 215F.
  11. As I mentioned in my original post, the cooling system is entirely working as designed. I'm pretty familiar with the car by now and comfortable with this stuff. Have actually been through a fan failure, so I know how that goes. They're both clean and working fine. I share your view on the fan mod. It might work for some, but the coolant temperature rises and falls so quickly with this car that I don't see how prophylactic cooling is going to make much difference in the traffic I drive in, other than letting the engine run cooler for a minute or two longer. A real fix doesn't exist, frankly, IMHO. If you look at how they deal with this stuff in police cars and taxis and military vehicles, the only variables you've got are surface area, air flow and system volume: More rad, more fluid, more air. We can add only a little volume and surface area, and can only control airflow with motion. The dream solution would be a fan design that moved more air, and fan motors that can deal with the load. Do you like making things more completcated than necessary? :o It works for ALL. Street or track. It is not that the fans do not push enough air. It is the fact that they do not turn on soon enough to full speed.
  12. Running the fans on high, sooner, does in fact keep the engine cooler in all conditions. Themostat is not the problem, airflow is. You can remove the thermostat and you'll have the same problem.
  13. I agree that the cooling system works brilliantly when there is airflow through the rads, as would be the case on a track. The problem is sitting in traffic. Indeed, it might only be a problem in my head; the car is working as designed. I just don't think the car was designed with the stresses of urban commuting strictly in mind. Regarding the model year, I think that I've read that the early 996s had only one temperature sensor, located at the engine. The later ones had a second sensor at the rads, and the OBD read out the average of the two readings, thus making the later cars appear to run cooler than the earlier ones did. C The target coolant temperature is 90C - 95C. You cannot run at that low of a temperature if moving in slow traffic without getting more air past the radiators. I'm sure you're right. The only really correct, effective fix would be fans that moved more air. The method for correcting your problem is to have the existing fans come on sooner in the temperature range. This will provide you a consistantly cooler engine in all conditions. There are many ways to acheive this, including my fan mod as is outlined on this site, changing the inline sensor for the fans, intercepting signal to DME, etc.
  14. I agree that the cooling system works brilliantly when there is airflow through the rads, as would be the case on a track. The problem is sitting in traffic. Indeed, it might only be a problem in my head; the car is working as designed. I just don't think the car was designed with the stresses of urban commuting strictly in mind. Regarding the model year, I think that I've read that the early 996s had only one temperature sensor, located at the engine. The later ones had a second sensor at the rads, and the OBD read out the average of the two readings, thus making the later cars appear to run cooler than the earlier ones did. C The target coolant temperature is 90C - 95C. You cannot run at that low of a temperature if moving in slow traffic without getting more air past the radiators.
  15. Or you can keep your coolant temperature below 200F at all times by doing my simple fan mod. Cost is virtually nothing.
  16. It is a normal noise of the LWFW. The LWFW often changes the harmonic balance of the crank and produces the noise due to vibration of the shaft. Technically, this is not good for the crank bearings and the choice you have to make is whether the added performance you get from the LWFW is worth the risk of possible bearing damage.
  17. Leaving the key in the ignition WILL slowly drain the battery. Leaving your transmission in gear, which is what you should be doing, has NO EFFECT on the battery.
  18. Cut the MAF cable white wire (pin #5) and splice back together with the resister inline.
  19. Very common with fuel injected engines. Short operation < 1 minute or so, can cause the engine to become rich making it difficult to start shortly thereafter.
  20. Any increase in performance you feel is only due to having new, properly functioning plugs and not because they are better plugs. A spark is a spark. The compressed mixture in the cylinders will ignite no better with a hotter spark than with the minimum required spark. For a high compression performance engine, the best plug is a copper core plug and, ironically, these are the least expensive plugs.
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