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1999Porsche911

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Everything posted by 1999Porsche911

  1. Have you tried driving with the MAF cable disconnected? Although you'll most likely get a CEL, see if the idle is better running this way. Also, although you put in a new ICV, is the gasket missing or leaking? Check throttlebody bolts and any other area that will allow air past the closed throttle. Check vacuum line from fuel pressure regulator to intake tube to the back and right of the throttlebody.
  2. Thermostat would not cause this symptom. The DME will only cause the temperature gauge light to flash slowly under 2 conditions. 1) Reservoir sensor is reading low coolant level or 2) the engine compartment temperature is too high or sensor bad. Your engine cannot run at 60C no matter what is correct or wrong with your cooling system and therefore, your reading on the temperature gauge is not accurate. As with all computer controlled systems, all sorts of things can be effected my a short, lose wire, etc. If your coolant level is normal, it is possible that the temperature sensor is bad and this is the easiest part to replace. Cost is about $30 US. However, a common symptom of a bad sesnor is an idle that runs higher than normal, taking longer to drop back to normal. Also, check the connection to the level sensor at the bottom of the reservoir. Have you had any work done on the engine recently? Coolant change, etc?
  3. A slow flashing light would indicate low coolant level. Check level of reservoir.
  4. Do not take changing the crank balance lightly. Side effects can cost you big.
  5. I broke mine too, many years ago, (almost no plastic left) but if I remember correctly, the sensor is the female side of the connection. Anyway, just installed it, connect the broken connector, tape it if you need too, and you're good to go. The connection is very tight so it may be secure without tape.
  6. It is a very complex and involved job to find a fault in the temp sensor. Accurate gauge reading and scanner reading will not conclude it is working properly. Ressitance to the 5 volt voltage is fed to many controls, including injectors. Kinda like a bad battery. Easier and cheaper to spend the money for a new one than to remove and have it tested.
  7. If you already spent money guessing it was the TPS and ICV by buying new parts, why won't you go spend another $30 for a temperature sensor? Seems to me that would be the cheapest and easiest thing to do to either correct the problem or eliminate it as the cause. This sensor, if bad, is a common cause of idle problems, not only on Porsches but on VW, BMW, Honda, Lexus, Land Rover and almost every car made in the last 20 years. Part number: 996 606 405 01 Jim
  8. Jump start the car from there. EDIT: Never mind. I forgot your engine was not working.
  9. Just look for one of the cables again. They are there. If they are not, they were deliberately removed which I find highly unlikely.
  10. There are several scanners available for < $250. It's a must have tool for all modern engines and can pay for itself with one use. Search and you'll find several that people use. Idle control valve should not cause those codes, but if you have not done so, remove it and clean it and the throttlebody. I saw the Durametric scanner for just under $300 which is Porsche specific. What would you recommend for a more reasonable price? I've got more time than money right now as I'm in the off season of a seasonal business. I removed the air filter housing a month or so ago, inspected the filter, hoses, clamps and related parts. The throttle body with less than 12k miles still looked new. I guess I could check again. Also if an injector was leaking it would have to be more than one or at least one on each bank to cause both codes, correct? Rather unlikely on a 12k mile motor? I think so, but I'm not an expert. I don;t know what the best priced one is. I have a custom one that is no longer made. http://www.autoenginuity.com/ is a good one too. You are correct about the leaky injectors. It would take at least one on each bank. Because it appears that both banks are running rich, it would likely be a common problem that effects both banks. Fuel pressure too high; blocked intake after MAF; bad gas; bad MAF signal or and open EVAP valve. Bad plugs could also cause the condition but I assume they are new with the engine. Do you have your old MAF?
  11. There are several scanners available for < $250. It's a must have tool for all modern engines and can pay for itself with one use. Search and you'll find several that people use. Idle control valve should not cause those codes, but if you have not done so, remove it and clean it and the throttlebody.
  12. I cleaned the 3 yo/15K mile MAF twice a couple of months ago and it made no difference, Then I replaced it with a new one, car runs fine now but CEL reappeared. New one has less than 50 miles on it, CEL on again and same 2 codes are present. Codes indicate running rich on both banks. Could be too much fuel pressure, leaking injectors or EVAP canister purge valve open. These codes are only generated at idle. A scanner, as I said earlier, would give you a better idea of what parameters are out of wack. Just because the MAF is a new one does not mean it is working. What is the part number of the MAF?
  13. If you had a bad separator you would run lean, not rich like you are. A scanner would be the easiest tool to identify your problem. It's possible you MAF is dirty and over reporting airflow causing your rich condition. You may try removing and cleaning the MAF and the contacts with an electronics spray cleaner. This will remove any contamination and reduce the reading of the MAF.
  14. That is not the theromostat housing. Thermostat is on the other sdie of the engine at the water pump. However, you will need to collect the coolant when you remove the 4 -10 mm bolts to replace the gasket.
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