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nick49

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About nick49

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  • Interests
    Hiking, Climbing, Mountaineering, Taking Pictures

Profile Fields

  • Porsche Club
    No
  • Present cars
    '99 Carrera Cabriolet 996
    '99 Boxster 986
    '99 Jeep Cherokee
    '06 Lexus RX400h (STOLEN 4.15.06, Recovered 4.29.06)
  • Future cars
    Subaru, GT3 (?)
  • Former cars
    914 (2), 911SC, MGA Twin Cam, MG Magnette, Austin Mini (2), Sunbeam Alpine, Jag XKE, Jag XJS,
  1. MAF is faulty. Save a lot of issues and only go with a Bosch OEM genuine Porsche as aftermaket ones seem to be ok in the short term only to fail in a few weeks. I chased the problem for nearly a year ordering aftermarket ones, sending them back, losing a lot of money and time. Trying other things that would cause the problem finally fit a new OEM and the problem never returned.
  2. I agree with RFM, try to pinpoint where the problem lies before deciding on an ultimate solution. In my case, the chain of events were a slight rattle or knock upon starting, rough running and a flashing CEL in about a half mile from home. I immediately turned around for home and with the car running in the driveway lots of steam and coolant was exiting my right tailpipe. I checked my coolant level and it was not visable in the filler reservoir. I pulled the plugs on the left bank and the exhaust header and found the offending cylinder. My car had less than 45k miles on it at the time.
  3. I was lucky to have Porsche goodwill a replacement motor and I paid the labor. This was in '06. I think the best route for a complete motor, if you are going to keep the car is the Porsche replacement as it comes with virtually everything new and updated including the injectors, alternator, starter, electronics, power steering pump, belts, internal chains and tensioners, updated RMS and IMS and air/oil separator. All known mechanical issues have been addressed and corrected so you will have your original car with the security and peace of mind of a new power plant and all related accessories. These are every bit as good as a brand new motor but much less expensive.
  4. From your vid, it looks exactly like steam from coolant leaking into the combustion chamber. I hope I'm wrong. I've been thru this with my car.
  5. Keep your fingers crossed. Hope like hell the white smoke was oil from a failed oil separator and not steam from coolant leaking into the cylinder and combustion chamber. Good luck, check your coolant level, hopefully it's full and not oily, this will tell you something. Check your oil too, hope it doesn't look milky or like it's at all mixed with coolant.
  6. Where did you buy it? I'd like to find one for less than $300.
  7. That's the canister that houses the filter. Unscrew it, R&R the filter and o ring, fill with clean oil and replace it hand tight ot until flange lightly seats and compresses the oring. Someone will probably chime in with the torque figure.
  8. A little more info since my last post. I erased the codes, cleaned some light residue from the inside of the throttle body, inspected the intake from there outward, replaced the air filter which was pretty clean originally. The CEL came back on in less than 50 miles with the same 2 codes, nothing more. I'm now noticeing more than ever, that when sitting a red light idling for a short time and starting out, the car will hesitate, buck and stumble and nearly die, then run fine. It's loading up and will happen just off idle and sometimes just below 2000 RPM. I even filled the tank with fresh gas as I was about a quatrer full. Didn't make a difference. I added some heet to the tank thinking maybe had a condensation problem and haven't tried it since. Something is causing it to run too rich at idle or very slightly above. Any ideas on the off idle stumble?
  9. Being the owner of a '99 Boxster going on 7 years and a '99 Carrera going on 6 years, I wouldn't hesitate to buy another '99 in very good condition in the future. I would however, knowing what I know, buy one that had a replacement motor installed as recently as possible. It would give me peace of mind knowing the slipping/cracked sleeve issue, weak intermediate shaft/bearing problem, RMS issues, Oil separator issue, are all addressed. Also nice knowing I would have a newer ps pump, starter, coils, alternator, motor electronics, plus all internals with the old lighter body and chassis, limited slip diff, mechanical throttle and other pluses for the '99 model year.
  10. Thanks for the reply. I'm still trying to track down the source of my problem. Have 2 1/2 year old motor w/under 12k miles, and less than 100 miles on a new MAF my thoughts, unlikely leaking injectors on both banks, Still could be too high fuel pressure or EVAP purge valve open. Where is it and how do I check it?
  11. This is common, my wife's Boxster does the same thing. I find if I let it run 5 minutes or so before driving off, it minimizes the popping which sometimes will trigger a fault code and cause the CEL to come on. I don't think anything is actually wrong with the car. Drive it gently until it warms a bit.
  12. I can rule out bad gas, as I've had the codes and CEL for several tank fulls. I can rule out the blocked intake too. I do have the old MAF. I also have the same MAF in my wife's Boxster that is good. How do I check for a open EVAP valve? The cars runs better with the new MAF than with the old one, noticeably so, I'm pretty in touch with this as I've jetted roadracing motorcycles for optimum performance for years. I've had an ever so slight off idle stumble a few times recently that may be indicitive of something related. Again it's not regular and something I can't repete. I don't drive the car often in the winter as I live near the mountains and we've had snow for 6 weeks. So I'm driving it once a week and then for only 20 or so miles. Thanks
  13. There are several scanners available for < $250. It's a must have tool for all modern engines and can pay for itself with one use. Search and you'll find several that people use. Idle control valve should not cause those codes, but if you have not done so, remove it and clean it and the throttlebody. I saw the Durametric scanner for just under $300 which is Porsche specific. What would you recommend for a more reasonable price? I've got more time than money right now as I'm in the off season of a seasonal business. I removed the air filter housing a month or so ago, inspected the filter, hoses, clamps and related parts. The throttle body with less than 12k miles still looked new. I guess I could check again. Also if an injector was leaking it would have to be more than one or at least one on each bank to cause both codes, correct? Rather unlikely on a 12k mile motor? I think so, but I'm not an expert.
  14. New MAF is the 123.00 for mechanical throttle. And the new one made my car idle slightly higher and smoother and eliminated the hesitation at 5-6K rpm. So I assume it's working. Are you refering to a Porsche scanner that I'd either have to purchase or visit the dealer? Thanks
  15. I cleaned the 3 yo/15K mile MAF twice a couple of months ago and it made no difference, Then I replaced it with a new one, car runs fine now but CEL reappeared. New one has less than 50 miles on it, CEL on again and same 2 codes are present.
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