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996noob

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Everything posted by 996noob

  1. I don't know the values, but my C2 has a Boxster Red interior, and I am curious to find out what you intend to do if you had the data. That being said, I've been looking to do some refurb to the driver's seat by using the dyes available online.
  2. Does anyone know if this transmission mount (part #996 375 055 05) is applicable for both Manual and Tiptronic transmissions? Mine's a Tip, but the car in the discussion is a Manual.
  3. We don't have Dex-Cool here, but we have Caltex Delo over here https://cglapps.chevron.com/msdspds/PDSDetailPage.aspx?docDataId=300620&docFormat=PDF . Not sure if thei is ok?
  4. I went through all the old threads but could not completely conclude if Elf/Porsche original coolant is the same as VW/Audi G12 coolant. Getting G12 would be convenient for me, but I want original, and I know that is Elf. If I can somehow get a confirmation that the Elf coolant is also labelled as VW/Audi G12, then that would be really easy for me to get. Thanks!
  5. Hi Guys, I'm looking with great interest at the switchable FVD Brombacher system at the moment as well. Do you know if it also uses the Porsce PSE switch on the dash, or some other type of aftermarket switch tucked away? The new PSE price is really very high now. I'm on Fabspeed currently and looking to change. I can't really take the resonance at mid 2k rpm. The PSE on the other hand is just right, and no drone. I hoping that the FVD Brombacher system is like the PSE....
  6. I've ask this on another thread, hope you guys don't mind. Since the discussion is about 996GT3 arms adding negative camber, can the arms give more positive camber than stock arms? i.e. is the arm shorter than stock when there are no shims installed?
  7. Here is the side view pic of the car after lowering. I was wondering, if, since the final ride height is so low, as compared to many other 996's with PSS9's, the shock must be working in it's "lower" than normal position, in this specific case, would it be then allowable to raise the height above Bilstein's spec on the shock? Just wondering.... Absolutely correct, IMHO. Whatever the reason, your strut is operating closer to bottomed out by roughly 10mm, or a bit over 3/8"". Doesn't sound like much, but as a percentage of overall range, it is. I'd raise it between 1/4 & 3/8" or 7-9mm, which would still give you a positive rake, keep the designed fore/aft height relationship, and would help your camber settings as well. You shouldn't need another alignment, either for sucha small change. What were your starting numbers? Unfortunately, my start numbers were measured from the ground to the jack points, since at that time, I did not know where to measure from until Loren gave us the diagram. Thanks Loren. I could theoretically transpose and approximate the start numbers to the correct points by measuring the current heights of the jack points. Give me a few days, the car is in the paint shop getting a new coat. The reason I resurrected this thread is because I seriously think my car is much lower than it out to be with the PSS9's. I can't begin to guess why. But, I think that I should raise the car to at or around the correct "working" position of the shock absorbers, as I'm sure I'm closer to bottoming out position and have less workable range during driving, and this is where I need your help and advice. That being said, I also have a question about the camber. Obviously, with the lowering, I am getting more negative camber than before. I also know that most of you who run the GT3 lower arms intend to dial in more negative camber for track or autoX. What if I installed the GT3 arms so that I could get more positive camber? Is this possible? I do not know the shortest length of the GT3 arm, but if it is shorter than stock, theoretically I could do this. Then I could adjust more camber for track (unfortunately, only once a year for me!).
  8. From my own experience, 11" rear wheel width is ok at 67 offset. That is what I am using on my 996 C2. You can go down to 60, but you might get rubbing issues. However, if you want to keep the correct 996 rear tire overall diameter while using a 19" diameter wheel, you need to use either 275/30R19 or 315/25R19. If you are using 275, you shouldn't run this width on an 11" width wheel. On a 11" width wheel you need 295 or 315. 295 is the wrong rolling diameter and 315 is too wide for a narrow body 996 in my opinion. So, I find, that the best solution is either run a 10" width wheel so that you can run 275, or use a 295 tire (997 sizing) and you will have to accept the increased diameter.
  9. Hi Guys, I got myself a set of 996 Mk1 GT Trims from a guy who never installed them, but lost the template. Can the template be bought? Are they re-usable? Thanks.
  10. On my car, I couldn't find the control units like those pictured. Instead, I have attached a picture of an array of connectors into what seems like a single black plastic ecu unit. Actually, it's so small I don't know if it really is an ecu or just a connector box. I have unplugged my sensors at the bumper-side, and now the speaker emits a constant tone whenever reverse is engaged (which is expected). What I would like to do is to disable the sound and/or ecu (I want to disable the park assist sensors). I looked in the fuse box, but it seems the reverse system shares the same fuse as the mirrors, so I can't just pull the fuse. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks! Can anyone help me disable my park assist? Thanks in advance!
  11. On my car, I couldn't find the control units like those pictured. Instead, I have attached a picture of an array of connectors into what seems like a single black plastic ecu unit. Actually, it's so small I don't know if it really is an ecu or just a connector box. I have unplugged my sensors at the bumper-side, and now the speaker emits a constant tone whenever reverse is engaged (which is expected). What I would like to do is to disable the sound and/or ecu (I want to disable the park assist sensors). I looked in the fuse box, but it seems the reverse system shares the same fuse as the mirrors, so I can't just pull the fuse. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks!
  12. I'm planning to install an aftermarket park sensor system and disable the factory one. If I wanted to disable the factory park sensors, what would I do? Would I just diconnect the power to the park sensor ECU? Were would this be located on a RHD car?
  13. Are the offsets the same for Mk1 GT3 and C2/C4 for aftermarket wheels?
  14. I am assuming for the front diff. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=7069 Rick Thanks Rick, however, I am looing for a guide for the rear differential. On the manual shift cars the transmission and differential are all one and share the same oil. Mine's a Tiptronic.
  15. I am assuming for the front diff. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=7069 Rick Thanks Rick, however, I am looing for a guide for the rear differential.
  16. So, what was the conclusion, do the 996's take GL4 or GL5? The oils are very different. From many years of experience with Alfa Romeo and BMW cars, I have come to know that it is very important in making the distinction between the two types for your particular application. Then, what about the differential oil? I would assume this is a GL5 oil, since it is purely a differential and not a transaxle, but I can't find any conclusive information, even from the my owner's manual, it doesn't specify.
  17. I've posted this question a couple of times in the past. Everybody says no, even though I think no one has actually really tried it (fashioning the tools, etc.). Those who have changed the mount did it outside the car, and have said that we're better off removing the transmission than attempting an on-car mounting change. I'm quite determined to try to do it in-place, but need to do more research.
  18. Should there be one? What country is your car manufactured for? That will determine the sensors and DME programming. I am located in Singapore.
  19. Great. I'll do that and report later. I went ahead and cleaned the MAF a few weeks ago. There was no difference. So I finally decided to order a new MAF despite the airflow readings read by Durametric being within Porsche spec, and no fault codes had been reported by the ECU. I only deduced that a new MAF was needed by using the "unplug-MAF-method" as suggested by forum members. It turns out my MAF was the culprit. The car runs like a rocket again! Imagine that I could not even reach redline in 3rd gear, so the Tip trans couldn't even get me to 4th if I drove at wide open throttle. I am still a little confused as to why this was so. But anyway, it is now solved. Thanks to everyone who helped me with this.
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