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Hi. I have a power drain problem on my 1994 928 GTS. I have measured (and eliminated) the drainage to be at connection K24 in the Central Electrical panel. The consumption is 120 mA when K24 is connected and just 20 mA when it is disconnected (with the doors locked and alarm activted). I have studied the electrical drawings but cannot figure out what K24 is connected to. The only thing I know is that I hear clicking under the centre console or under the drivers seat when it is energized. Anyone who have had similar experience or can interpret electrical drawings better than me? :huh: Regards isakpede
I would have changed them all, if I had all these parts when I did the job. This job is not so complicated, just one screw in addition to the two on the cylinderhead. The plastic-pipe tends to be brittle, I guess that is the reason why it is included in the kit. Be sure to fasten the new hose-clamp properly with a pair of suitable pliers. If you are unsecure on how to do this and have trouble getting the correct pressure (compressor does not stop), change the two screws, the o-ring and the piston ring and see if that rectifies the problem. If not, you might try to change the rest of the parts. isakpede
isakpede replied to Gusfan's topic in 9PA, 9PA1 (Cayenne, Cayenne S, Cayenne Turbo, Cayenne Turbo S)It is fully possible to replace the starter without removing coolant pipes. It is very narrow, but it is possible, be patient and don't give up.... One hour job alltogether, if you have the servicemanual with the torques for the inletmanifoild, starter etc. I was also a fool not to replace the starter when replacing the coolantpipes....
Hi. Several months since I was in here now and it is a pleasure to see that people still find my DIY on the compressor overhaul usefull. No, you don't need a torque wrench, just do not overtighten the screws. The secrews are only 6mm as I can remember, so be carefull not to overtighten and damage the threads in the compressor body. If you do, I believe you have to buy a new compressor...... Isakpede
Hi. YOU GOT A LEAK SOMEWHERE. Get at spraybottle, fill it with a consentrated solution of dishwasher soap and water. Spray on all connection points and bellows on all the wheels and connections under the car. Under the car you also have the valveblock, think it is plased near the compressor somwhere. The plasticpipes has different colores to each wheel and will be easy to spot. You most likely got a leak somewhere. The buffer tank is placed somwhere in the trunk, it has some connection points that could leak to. Be sure to do it on all three positions of elevation also. Good luck
Hi. I have just replaced mine with a Varta Silver 110A battery. That is the battery the Porsche dealer recommended here i Norway. The original one was also a Varta battery. Buy it from a sertified Varta battery dealer instead of Porsche and you might save 30%. The size is ca 390x170x190mm. Unscrew the two bolts holding the driverseat (located under a plastic cover in front of the seat on each side) tilt the seat in a backward position, you may have to adjust the seat to be able to get it all the way back. Unscrew the fastening part for the battery and disconnect both pole cables and ventilastion hose. Lift out the battery and replase in opposite order. It might also fix some other weird problems with your car as well..... Remember to clear all fault codes when you are finnished. Good luck,
Hi I just want to add one additional sparepart you should change out while you are at this job. Change out the cooling breather pipe with the part number 948 106 016 03, see part 20 in the attachment below . The price is just around 35$. This pipe and it's connections gets very brittle and cracks just for a good word, due to long service with hot fluid and hot environment. I experienced a leak on the test drive after installing all the parts.:angry: One tip of getting the upper old pipes out is to saw them in two, drill a hole trough them, put a big screwdriver in the hole and jus bang the pipe out with a hammer. On lower bigger pipe, you have to be careful so you don't damage the knocking sensor and wires that is hidden under the pipe. I also experienced that the ends of the pipe got stuck left in both ends. :censored: Safety Also disconnect your battery ground connection, cause the starter still has power on it even if the ignition and key is out. If you i.e. get your watch between the + connection on the starter and the engine block, the watch may melt stuck to your wrist....... or at least blow some fuses and maybe damage the electrical systems on your car. Thanks for a good description, I would never dared to try without it.... :thankyou: Regards
Hi. The overhaul kit does not contain the pressure sensor but i guess it will resolve your problem. Check this DIY thread, it will help you. Its only a 30 min job. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=25621 Good luck :)
Hi. Sorry but it is way to narrow to get a good picture of where the temp-mix servomotors is mounted. But I can sure tell you that it takes a good porsion of patience and som sore fingers to change them out. My suggestion is that you buy the servomotors for both sides and get a drawing of where they are placed from your dealer. If only one is broken now, you will probably have to change the otherone in a short time. On the driverside you have to remove the covers above the pedals to get access to the left side of the midconsole. On the right side you need to remove the glove compartment to get access to the servomotor on the right side of the console. There are threes servomotors on each side so be sure to pick the right one. You can try to adjust the temperature between max and min to figure out wich one that are not working properly. The motors are fixed with three torx T20 screws. Those are the challenge to get in and out without dismantling the rest of the dashboard. I used a T20 bit and a litle fixed spanner to do the job. Good Luck.
The car has been driven i Spain most of the time. Just passed 90.000 km. Guess its due to change the pipes. Leakage probably increases due to freezing temperatures (crack opens as the pipe gets smaller at low temperatures). Have not seen any signs of leakages/ponds under the car. But still, 2 liters in two months is yet not that visual. The car is also usually not parked in a garage. I guess an internal leakage in the engine is not a big issue on the CS, since it is not often discussed in the forum.....
Instructions and a parts list are in the TSB. TSB 45/07 1961 Coolant Pipe Leaking -- dated Feb 22, 2008 I am not sure if cracked coolant pipes really is my problem, but I have experienced alarm on low coolant level on two occasions now. One time in mid january and last time in the end of march. Both after start up in cold weather (-10 Celsius). Had to fill two liters of coolant each time. Could it be other reasons for loss of coolant than cracked pipes? Thanks for any answers.
Hello again. Think I found it. It was attached on the underside of the plastic cover. It has the part number 7L0907643. Can't erase the fault code, so I guess I have to buy a new. By the way, what does this sensor do?
Can anyone tell me where to find the air quality sensor?
70$ each servomotor. But do you have problems with cold air on one side and hot on the other? If the heater blows on an of by itself it might also be the controller.