Kim

I bought a pair of Tip switches, with harness, for approx. $15 on ebay. Kim 2000 Cab

My reply of $1400 at Sunset includes the wiring harness. The "whole kit" is the only kit I know of. The only thing that is not included in the package from Porsche is the dash mounted switch ... for some strange reason. Jeff at Sunset included that in my shipment for Sunset's typical discount parts price. What great folks to work with. Kim 2000 Cab

I got mine for about $1400, including the switch itself (which does not come with the wiring harness). Bought it from Sunset, a RennTech sponsor, who is terrific to deal with. Kim 2000 Cab

He may be experiencing the same thing I have run into: The locking mechanism that pushes the locking plunger into the locked position for the gas door IS, in fact, actuating properly. Thus, no beep when setting alarm. However, the entire mechanism has developed mechanical slop. Watching it (with gas door open) while activating the locks, one can see that sometimes the plunger comes out so as to engage the locking tab .... and sometimes the mechanism simply shifts back the other way (as if into the void behind the wheel well). So, the alarm computer thinks the lock has done its job .... but the door is not actually held shut by the plunger. I just recently printed out an enlarged pic of the mechanism from the repair manual, and have not yet analyzed it to see what can be done to correct the problem. Kim 2000 Cab

I can't give you the part numbers .... but the very first thread I read on RennTech was Tool Pants (I believe) describing how he used the much less expensive luggage compartment lights to emulate the wheel well lighting. Works great, and they cost just a couple of bucks each. Kim 2000 Cab

My bad, I thought they all were these days .... in this time of cell phone chargers, PDA chargers, laptop chargers, etc. At least .... its been a while since I 've had a car with a lighter that wasn't full time hot. Kim 2000 Cab.

I can think of no reason why it would not work, other than a physical mismatch between the mantainer plug and the MB cigarette lighter. In that case, use the clips. The maintainer is looking for a 12v battery in a negative ground system .... which applies to both cars. It does not know what brand battery might be there, whether its plugged into a Porsche or not. Kim 2000 Cab

After all my checking, I have done nothing so far. Although my front bumper is in quite good condition, I do not wish to cover it until I have the license plate holes filled, other minor damage repaired, and the bumper repainted. Simply haven't gotten around to it, yet. Then, I plan to cover only the bumper cover. Although I realize both the almost unnoticeable character of the line on the hood, I just do not desire to have any film edges runnig across mid panel, either on the hood or fenders. So, its bumper only for me. Kim 2000 Cab

Here is some information I gathered about a year ago when I investigated this issue. Apparently, it makes quite a difference which film you use, and caution dictates a professional installation. Kim 2000 Cab Films available: 3M - 1st generation film had many fading issues, which prompted an upgrade in early 2004. The film still uses the same urethane, but a clearer adhesive. The old film also received many complaints about "orange peel" texture that made the film very visible on darker colored vehicles. 3M's new film is clearer, but is still behind in strength and clarity. 5 Yr Warranty Avery - Film generally fades w/in 1yr and customer service is poor. The company has all, but fallen off the face of the paint protection industry. Clearshield - Film's quality is very similar to 3M's 1st generation film, if not the same. Tends to yellow and crack in 2-3 yrs. Similar to 3M's 1st gen film, 90% of the adhesives will remain on paint when film is removed. 5 Year Warranty. Llumar (CP Films) is one of the clearer films on the market. Customer service is lacking and company tends to work warranty claims based on the small print. Film's quality does not reject environmental oxidation, bird droppings, and other chemicals as well as 3M and Venture. Lifetime Warranty Venture - film's clarity along w/ its patented acrylic adhesives make it the clearer film. Excellent customer service and film looks great on all colors - even black. Lifetime Warranty INSTALLATION & SOFTWARE DESIGN Film's quality is only as good as the installation. Searching out a good installer is not an easy task as many companies make outrageous claims of experience and expertise. The most important thing is to see what type of coverage you will get and whether or not it will be in one piece especially for the front bumper. Companies that use 1 piece for bumpers are generally more skilled at paint protection film installations, while software designers such as Clearshield, Invicashield, and Stongard created these kits for those DIYers in mind. Below are some tips to searching out good installers: -what type of software do they use. This will dictate their skill level as companies utilizing the 3 software pkgs above are used to having these kits come in multiple pieces for ease of installation. -how detailed oriented are they........you will have to pick up these little signs while talking with the company or installer -how long have they been installing paint protection -are they certified by a film manufacturer? although certification is not a pre-req for being a professional installer, it does show that they received some type of training. -can they do custom work with one piece of film. This is generally meant for those with aftermarket bumpers or would like to have certain areas wrapped that is not computer generated designs. -if they do custom work, do they cut on the vehicle? For custom work, a template should be designed for the vehicle and then cut out on a drawing board. This will reduce the chance of cutting on the paint to zero. -Ask if they use a heat gun to "soften" the material during installation. This is often a technique used by those not familiar w/ proper stretching of material..........this goes back to experience. -Take a look at their work or better yet, ask for references.

My experience has convinced me that, although the official Porsche answer is that every car's electrical harness is a custom application .... there are exceptions to the rule: Every 996 I have examined has the cell phone connection behind the upper console; There is a slight chance of finding heated seat connections under a non-heated seat; My US spec car has the heated washer nozzle connection, but not the washers (thank goodness), along with at least one other in the area of the battery. I'm sure there are other examples. Kim 2000 Cab

I think you have blame Becker for that. They designed the radio. Kim 2000 Cab

I don't have the downloaded manual, so can't comment on its instructions. My original equip manual says simply, "hold down the multifunction button (that's the station select buttons) for 2-4 seconds ...." to store a selected station. So, just tune a station you like, then select which button you wish to match to it (1 through 0), and hold that selected button in for a few seconds. After that, pushing that same button should retrieve that station. Kim 2000 Cab

Unless you have a spill that is directly onto the top surface of the carpet, any moisture entering your car is most likely to exhibit itself in exactly this manner. Whether through the doors, or from a backed up drain line, the water goes straight for the lowest point (floorboards), then gradually soaks up through the foam and then into the carpet backing. Once you can feel it in the top surface of the carpet, you have had LOT of water enter your car. Ask me how I know. Kim 2000 Cab

For PCA events, the PCA 996 Tech Advice column has this to say, quoted directly from page 2 of the PCA DE Guidelines .... "any make of car delivered with factory-installed roll over protection meets the minimum standards for PCA DE events." Kim 2000 Cab

Make sure that you follow the Owners' Manual directions exactly ... as it refers to the positioning of the tool (or socket wrench) for removing and prior to replacing the headlight unit. It is page 186 in the MY00 book. The 180 degree swing of the tool handle during removal .... rear to down to front .... both releases the locking device and removes it from physically obstructing removal of the unit. Then, while unit is out, the tool handle should turn 90 degrees from pointing front to pointing down. This positions the locking device to accept re-insertion of the headlight unit with its mating hardware. Then, carefully reinsert the unit so that its side tabs engage in the rails in the mount; and use your palm to slide it rearward .... WHILE AT THE SAME TIME turning the tool handle the remaining 90 degrees from its present down position toward the rear, back to its starting position. You should hear a audible "thunk" and feel the lock engage. The unit should be flush with the fender all around. Good Luck. Call me at 678-576-4594 if I can be of any help. Kim 2000 Cab

"MY" is short for Model Year Kim 2000 Cab

I can help with a couple, too. Have you tried a new battery in your keyhead? Simple to replace. Battery available at the drug store. For your MY99 car, only the remote lock/alarm button will function from the key head. You cannot remotely open your bonnet, no matter how many buttons are on the keyhead. Don't waste your money. I bought a keyhead on Ebay. Be CERTAIN it comes with the bar code tag, or it cannot be mated to your car by the dealer. If this is your only key, I suggest getting another key cut and put a valet (non-remote) head on it for emergencies. You can order a key shaft already cut from Sunset Porsche by supplying your VIN and proof of ownership. Big discount over the local dealer .... ususally. As a 99, your car probably would benefit from the Tech Service Bulletin on extending the range of the remote. (TSBs available here for contributing members. DIY covers it also). That should extend it from a few feet to 20 or more. The CD storage tray will simply pull out. Open all 4 trays, grasp firmly with both hands, and pull. A storage compartment is available from Porsche for about $40. Slides right in. Sell the storage tray on Ebay for 50+. Kim 2000 Cab

It is not difficult at all .... after you remove the wheel/tire. Its 3 (or 4 .... I'm out of town and do not have access to the car) sheet metal screws with about a 10mm bolt head. Liner pops right out. Drain tube exit point is directly behind it on lower portion, covered by small flapper valve. If you have to, as I did, go in from the other end .... removing the side wall panel is quite another story. Rear seat back must come out first, preceeded by the latching bracket for same said seat back. (I could not have completed that part without the manual). It was necessary for me to go in this way because, not only was my drain tube clogged, the two tier tray behind the sidewall had a lead where a short tube drains the upper tray into the lower tray. When large amounts of water (heavy rain or car wash) flowed through the drain system, it leaked at this point regardless of the state of the wheel well drain tube. I imagine, however, that this is an uncommon condition that most aren't faced with. Kim

Scouser, Here's what I posted here last February. At the same time I also posted some details on the tools and tricks necessary to gain access to the rear quarter drain area, and to remove the front and rear seats .... so as to remove carpet for drying. Kim 2000 Cab Here is the lesson learned for you Cab owners: a small plastic drain tray runs along the side wall behind the inner upholstery panel beside each back seat. A right angle fitting leads from the low point, sideways through the inner body panel and into the void ahead of the rear tire. If you remove the rear wheel, then the forward side wheel well liner, all you see is the metal body panel right behind it. Almost at the bottom of the body panel is the outlet for the drain tube. The outlet itself is a simple plastic check valve with a rubber flapper valve about the size of a nickel. Therein lies the problem. The rubber was stiff with age, and gummed up about 90% with the same kind of crud you clean out of your gutters ... fine, wet, black gunk. When my car was out in the pouring rain at the airport for 2 days, the 10% drain capacity left was clearly not enough to handle the water flow, and a gallon or so ended up in my back seat floor. I pulled the flapper off, blew out the drain with air, then soaked the flapper in Lexol conditioner to soften it before reinstalling. Considered leaving the rubber flapper off, but was afraid that road debris might come in the other way to block it. Going to pull the driver's side wheel and liner tomorrow. My car has been kept in a garage ... no reason to suspect more than average debris in the drain. You Cab owners might wish to add this to your "check every now and then" list.

When my car was new (to me), I thought the dealer had left the window cracked when doing the pre-delivery wash. Carpet was saturated in right rear. Turned out to be stopped up water drainage lines. You can search here for that thread. Not technically difficult, but a good deal of labor involved. Kim 2000 Cab

Although the Smartop allows operation up to about 20 MPH ( as does the factory wiring of the later model 996), the typical way I find myself performing up/down on the fly is NOT running down the road .... rather its pulling out of my driveway, or into the garage, or into a parking lot where I know I'm going to leave it up. The big plus is not so much on the road, as it is in not having to sit in a parking lot or the garage and raise lower it after parking or before starting out. Now, with the RemoteTop, I have a choice .... park with it down, and watch it raise, close the windows, and lock up as I walk away. I love it. Kim 2000 Cab

Driving a Tiptronic in Atlanta traffic .... maybe not LA, but its pretty heavy .... in a daily 70 mile round trip commute for a year. I average from 20-22 mpg doing this, and 22-24 on highway trips. Kim 2000 Cab

i wish. i got the smart top in the rennlist group buy (2001 c2 cab) and mine DOES NOT operate with one touch. Those folks will certainly work with you to make it right .... they have with me .... but just in case there is a misunderstanding in what I posted. WHEN STOPPED: the Smarttop still requires 2 touches to prevent inadvertant movement of the top when the car is standing and a bystander (or the car) may be injured. First, press the side of the switch that represents the current top position ("up" if top is up). hold it for a couple of seconds, then release. THEN, press and release the "down" side. The top will cycle fully without your finger on the button. WHEN MOVING (above a crawl): Simply press (and hold for a couple of seconds) the switch for the direction you desire to move the top. You can then release, and the top will begin and complete its cycle without your finger on the button. If yours does not operate like this, then I suggest you contact Wilhelmy. Kim 2000 Cab

Just in case you don't know the signficant (to me) difference between cutting the speed wire and installing the Smart Top from Wilhelmy: After cutting the wire, just as before, you will have to press and hold the cab switch until the top cycle is complete, up or down. Sometimes, a tricky thing to do while paying attention to your driving and/or changing gears. With the SmartTop (among its other advantages), a momentary press of the cab switch activates the cycle, and it continues .... on its own .... until complete. Then, if you wish, the rear quarter windows will function normally, as opposed to being locked down. Add in the Remote Top device, and you can do it all with the remote lock button on your key. No financial interest in the company .... I'm just a very satisfied customer. Kim 2000 Black Cab

Used your link to check shipping on their website: Just under $10 to Atlanta, GA area .... bringing total cost to about $28.00 delivered via UPS. Kim 2000 Cab