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Everything posted by rockitman

  1. anyone try pulling the standalone servotronic fuse ? My guess it's at the heart of the problem. I will try it this weekend and post my results. '04 CT w/ 20" Sport Design/Michelin from factory. I emailed you...
  2. Loren: Do you have the published specs for the CT ? toe, caster, camber ect. ? Thanks :lightbulb:
  3. rockitman

    oil leak

    GT3, 964 case July 8, 2003 build. Here's the deal...No leaks in the past. Changed the oil and stored the car from December till now. Drove the car 25 miles and parked it. Notice an oil spot the size of a quarter today after car has been parked for a week. It appears it is dripping from the center of the sway bar right begind the main support truss. It appears that above the sway bar is where the tranny and motor meet. Any idea's what it could be ? Does the fact that the car did not run for three months contribute to this ? Could it fix itself with driving the car a few times and perhaps the seal will expand and stop the leak. Any idea's would appreciated. I hope this is not the RMS problem. Thanks
  4. Loren: Any pics (schematic drawings) available under the Cay motor showing the 2 oil drain plugs and part numbers for oil seal crush rings, filter, o-rings ect??? Thanks
  5. Thanks Loren. That is a useful chart...Happy New Year !
  6. for Basalt Black Metallic. I received a kit and it looks just black with no metal flake. Here is the part #911 095 933 20 C9Z Is this plain ole black or is it Basalt Black. Thanks
  7. cat bypass pipes +25hp and supersport muffler +15 and free flow air filter will get you very close to 50 additional ponies for about $1500. Sounds like a good deal to me
  8. I believe the TSB Loren refers to is nothing more than having the tip control unit replaced along with the DME re-program. TSB W515 and W516, respectively...fyi
  9. $800 for tpms valve stems/sensor. What a rip!!! If you use wheels w/o tpms, is there an annoying warning light ect??? I realize it will show an error on the tpms screen, but I could live with that for the winter...
  10. why not maintenance free batteries that are sealed and hence no need for the vent tube or worrying about battery juice(fluid) levels???
  11. GT3 Jacking Procedure I have the DK20. You will need a hockey puck to place on top of the supplied rubber pad on the jack and a couple of 4x4 pieces of wood for the rear wheels. Raise one side of the car using a rear jack point, Place jack stand under front jack point, and 4x4 under rear wheel, Lower car, raise other side using rear jack point, Place jack stand under front jack point, and 4x4 under rear wheel, Lower car, Place jack under engine, the 4x4's under the rear wheels provide sufficient space to get the jack under the car. Raise the rear and place jack stands under rear jack points. Special Thanks to MDS for this one!!!! :jump:
  12. Link to my completed EVO billet shiftlink installation guide: http://gallery.rennlist.com/gallery/album122?page=1
  13. FYI: Just received my shift link piece. It is red anodized where it connects to the bottom of the shifter and it has 2 set screws...I will be tackling the install this weekend and will try to capture the install in pictures as best I can...
  14. I will post my impressions along with my DYI once the part comes in and I do the install...
  15. More robust means it won't break so you eliminate the risk of it breaking when you are out in the car and requiring a tow to the shop. I have heard that installing it does improve the shift feel making it more solid and direct since the billet piece does not flex and give like the chincey plastic one does. I will confirm that fact one I receive my piece and install it. Seems like a no brainer mod to me... :lightbulb:
  16. Thanks Tool Pants...I just ordered the EVO link last night, I will let you know how many set screws there are when I receive it. I will also photograph the install as best I can to document the entire process for others to use if desired....
  17. Tool Pants: First off thanks for the reply. I don't have the tool so that won't be an option. Looking at the picture I see two linkages...1 in black plastic and the other in light blue plastic. Was I suppose to by two of the billet linkages and replace both plastic ones??? Or is the Blue one for reverse gear??? How do I remove the stock plastic piece??? Are there lock rings or something that need to be removed and the cable pulls out??? Thanks.
  18. I want to install the evo billet shiftlink by swapping out the stock plastic one. I know you remove the center console to get access to the linkage...What's next??? I have found to much conflicting info and I don't want to screw things up. How do you remove the stock piece and put in the EVO billet piece...Install guide, pics or detailed steps would be great. Thanks. PS: Still using the stock shifter... :notworthy:
  19. I took the spacers out completely and used better grade 8 7/16 fine thread bolts with thicker bolts heads...Must less likely to sheer.
  20. Way to go Wolfgang. I was unware that Porsche had install instructions. While the prep seems more labor intensive than my method, the install of the bar sounds much easier. I have heard of people cuting the rocker panel plastic and they also indicate it makes it easier. I got started with deforming the panel which is much more difficult. I did not have any problems with scratching anything, but I did need to be careful. When I realized at the begining that it was going to be a battle and I almost gave up, I had to dig deep and rise up to the challenge. Once it was done, victory was that much sweeter!!!! :thumbup:
  21. Karl: Please stop posting photo's like this...Your getting me all wet!!!! :thumbup:
  22. May be a problem, since mouting the CUP style cone filter requires you to make a provision for the mass airflow sensor(MAF) which cup cars do not have. The air going into the engine will also be hotter and that will degrade performance since the filter is not isloated from engine heat. You are much better off using a high flow panel filter replacement in the existing airbox such as a bmc, since it is only getting air from the outside of the car(since it's isloated in the airbox from the engine heat).
  23. heel toe is really a misnomer these days. What you are really doing is braking(depressing brake pedal) with the left half or so of the ball of the foot, then while at the same time rolling your foot(right half of the ball) to make contact with the gas pedal so that you can blip it while keeping consistent foot pressure on the brake. Takes practice...but makes for the smoothest possible downshifts since the revs with some practice will match the wheel speed when done correctly. It keeps the car in perfect balance without upset when done right...(no herky jerky) and allows you to start accelerating throughout the corner after turn in, in the correct gear. It also lessens clutch wear when done properly.
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