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Bladecutter

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About Bladecutter

  • Birthday 09/03/1974

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    Male

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  • From
    Arvada, CO
  • Porsche Club
    No
  • Present cars
    '98 Boxster

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  1. I would recommend swapping the high beam bulbs to the low beam sockets, and vice versa. If you then have low beams, but no high beams, then you just found out your bulbs were both burnt out at the same time. BC.
  2. You are very wrong. Drive by Wire, means that the throttle cable that runs between the accelerator pedal and the throttle body has been replaced with a sensor on the accelerator pedal that detects how much demand there is from the driver, which runs by wires to the ECU of the car, than then sends an electrical signal to the butterfly motor on the throttle body (again, via wires) to actually open or close the butterfly, and a throttle position sensor mounted on the throttle body that tells the ECU where the butterfly is in relation to 0% or 100% positions. There is no direct connection between the accelerator pedal and the throttle body on a Drive by Wire system. 97, 98, and 99 Boxsters had throttle cables. All Boxsters from 2000 on are Drive by Wire systems. BC.
  3. Thanks for the help, and the better write up. My friend and I were able to get the top installed, and locked down. Unfortunately, the job was finished well after dark, and the weather turned a bit cool yesterday, and today its drizzling here in Denver. So basically, I'm leaving the top closed for several days to stretch the material before test opening it and seeing how everything paid off. I'll have to post before and after pics. Huge change going from a faded Graphite Gray top to a brand new Black top, and from a clouded, destroyed window to one that is perfectly clear. So strange being able to see the driver's faces behind me in traffic. BC.
  4. Hopefully one of our resident convertible top replacement people will see this today and respond back, as I am just about to start installing my new top today. So, anyway, a bit of history. In June, my Boxster was parked in my driveway while I was at work with my other car, and there was a huge hail storm, that took out my badly aged rear window. Yesterday, I went through the process of removing the old top, and completed that, but noticed a couple things that were different than the process mentioned in the write up at this link - http://images.wikia.com/boxster/ima..._Canvas_R_R.pdf First off, the clamping rails and sliders mentioned in step 9 say to remove the screw in the front of the rail, that the bottom part of the tension cable mounts to. No where does the write up mention that there's another screw holding the back side of the rail to the B-Pillar frame. Maybe my car is different, or maybe that was omitted, I have no idea. Just thought I would throw that out there. Next up, and this is my ultimate question: When I finally got those apart, it was just a matter of removing the two canvas straps in step 10, and then sliding the top out of the rail, and you're done. Well, for me, it wasn't that simple. Attached to the two canvas straps are a pair of elastic bands. These two bands were stapled to the "wings" on the plastic window. Here's my question: Are these elastic bands supposed to be stapled to the wings of the plastic window? Did Porsche do that to my car for some strange reason? Did someone kludge that together during the car's previous life to put a band-aid fix on the window? Or, are the wings of the plastic window supposed to go between the elastic band and the canvas straps. Also, why do you need to unhook the canvas straps in the first place? I can't see any reason for needing to do that at all. Thanks! BC.
  5. The position of the wheel/tire and the strut housing should not change at all, because those components do not change their location. The difference would be in the position of the tire and the body of the car. Think of it this way: The wheel and strut are in a fixed position that never changes. As the tire impacts an imperfection in the road, the tire pushes up on the body of the strut, and that force is then absorbed before being transmitted to the body of the car. Because you are only changing the spring, the position of the strut in relation to the location of the tire is not changing. BC.
  6. Hey Jake, Thanks for all the information, I learned quite a lot from what you just provided. I wouldn't have expected the case half to weigh 55 lbs, but I can definitely understand that it would be very difficult for one person, or even two people, to juggle that engine half, and keep the pistons in proper position in order to assemble things. From all the various photos that I have seen of the Boxster engines, I have seen so many different similarities to the motorcycle engine world, which is my preferred tinkering point. And yes, there aren't many motorcycle cylinder bores that are 55 lbs each, though my guess would be that the Flat 6 engine in the Honda GoldWing and Honda Valkyrie would most likely be the closest in complexity to the Porsche engine. It would be interesting to see a side by side breakdown of the two engines. Now you've given me something to search for on the internet! Thanks Jake, BC.
  7. Read the article!! The car in the article is a 98!! I just read through the article, and that's great news for all of us Boxster owners! Although, no where in the article did you mention that the car being worked on was your normal '98 2.5 equipped test car. ;) Also, I have had another question bouncing around my brain for a while ever since seeing the tear down and rebuild article of the Boxster engine that was put up a couple weeks back. It concerns the need to use a tool to insert the piston wrist pin retaining clips. I was wondering if you had ever considered simply tapering the bottom of the piston bores in the crankcase half for the 2,4,6 cylinder head, so that you can fully assemble the pistons to the connecting rods, and then just simply slide the crankcase half onto the pistons without having to use the tool, and run the risk of having that retaining clip either not be properly installed, or pop free before installation, thus requiring full disassembly of the engine again? Just about every motorcycle engine I have ever worked on simply requires the piston ring gaps be set to their proper positions, the piston, rings, and bores are then well lubricated, and the bores are gently tapped into position due the to bottom of the bore being tapered. There obviously must be extra material outside of the piston travel section of the cylinder bores in order for there to be a hole placed to allow the insertion of the wrist pin retaining clip tool, so I was thinking that that area could be the tapered section that would allow you to simply slide the bores onto the pistons. Chances are you have probably long since thought of that, and ruled it out, but I would love to hear the explanation of why that wouldn't work with this engine for the one cylinder head. Thanks, BC.
  8. Jake, Are you now saying that it looks like the upgrade can be applied to the '97 to '99 2.5 engines? I had thought that you mentioned at one point in time that it's IMS bearing is entirely different in comparison to the 2000 and newer designs. BC.
  9. Are you sure that its coming from the front? When I bought my '98 back in February, there was a shudder coming from the right rear wheel whenever I made a sharp right corner under power. Digging into the car, it turned out to be caused by a blown right rear strut. Once I replaced the rear struts, the shudder was gone. The motor mount was also shot, but that had a different feel to it. The clutch was not precise, and the shifter was sloppier, plus, in higher rpms, a quick stab and release of the throttle would cause the engine to bounce and buck a bit. You might want to look at the struts and see if one is covered in oil and/or dirt. The one that was blown on mine had to have been leaking for a very long time, because the crud was thick on it, but all the other struts were fairly clean for a car with 80k miles on it. BC.
  10. I picked up a '98 Boxster back in mid February. When I took it in for an alignment, they said that they had adjusted the left rear camber as far as it could go, but they could not get it into specs, but the right rear was well within spec. They said that is was one of two things that was the cause: There was a blown shock in the rear of the car, and that needed to be replaced, and that was their #1 guess at the cause of the issue. Oddly enough, the blown shock turned out to be on the right rear when I inspected the parts later. The other thing was that one of the ball joints (either the one on the toe arm, or on the main lower arm) had worn enough to require replacement. They recommended that I replaced the rear shocks first, and then see if the alignment can be set properly after that. Well, I waited for the rear Bilstein's to come in, and I replaced them myself. When I took the car back to the shop the next day, they were able to bring the whole car fully into specs (the left front was also just barely out of spec), and they said that everything looks perfect on the car now. Also, after replacing the rear shocks, the shudder noise I was getting from the right rear of the car when I was accelerating around a sharp right turn had vanished completely. That was caused by the RR shock not being able to keep the tire firmly planted to the ground. So, if you have a shudder noise when trying to put the power down while turning either sharp right or left, then it is possibly a blown rear shock on that side the shudder comes from. If there isn't any shudder, you will most likely want to see if any of the ball joints in the rear of the car have any amount of free play at the hub knuckle. BC.
  11. Have you tried the simple stuff first? Check to see if the air filter is clean. Check to see if all the spark plugs are on tight, properly gapped, and working fine. Replace the fuel filter (partially clogged one can cause the issues you are experiencing). After that, I would suspect MAF sensor issue, O2 sensor issue, or ignition coil stick issue. BC.
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