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brucenoah1956

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Everything posted by brucenoah1956

  1. I have a 2001 Boxster S (US spec) with a 3 button remote. After years of carrying, the upper rubbery part with the buttons won't stay on the lower housing. It appears to me that the key blade, remote board, and pill can be removed and installed in a new housing. If it can, hope to save some $ by not paying for a key blank, electronic board, cutting and programming. Can I replace just the upper and lower plastic housings? If so, can anyone tell me the Porsche part numbers for those two parts?
  2. I have a 2001 Boxster S (US spec) with a 3 button remote. After years of carrying, the upper rubbery part with the buttons won't stay on the lower housing. It appears to me that the key blade, remote board, and pill can be removed and installed in a new housing. If it can, hope to save some $ by not paying for a key blank, electronic board, cutting and programming. What are my options? 1. Can I replace just the upper and lower plastic housings? 2. If so, can anyone tell me the Porsche part numbers? 3. In searching this board, I found a topic where someone switched the guts of the fob into a newer style 911 two button fob. Is there a newer style three button fob housing I can put my guts into?
  3. I agree with spark plug tube o-ring diagnosis. Had same issue on my 2001 986S at 35K miles, but leaks had not progressed as far as yours. It was simple and inexpensive to replace both o-rings. I decided to replace the tubes while I was in there for a few bucks more. Tubes are plastic and degrade with exposure to temperature over time. Didn't want to risk future cracks by re-using old tubes.
  4. Sorry to hear of your bad luck. I had same thing happen to my 01' S a few years back. Deer took out hood and bumper cover, but no damage to cooling system. Doesn't help you, but Connans body shop in Zionsville, IN was recommended by Tom Wood Porsche in Indianapolis. They did an excellent repair.
  5. My car has them, but they are prone to falling out. I was lucky the first time not to be driving at highway speed. It landed on the retracted top and I was able to stop and retrieve before it fell off. Added some small tie wraps to retain them to the roll bar.
  6. No trip to dealer should be necessary. I replaced the battery in my key fob last year following the intructions in the owners manual. Pry off the cover, R&R the CR2032 battery observing polarity, put cover back on. Good to go.
  7. OK, I admit that I am inept at searching this site. I was thinking that somewhere on here there was a DIY for throttle body cleaning on a 986S. My car is a 2001 Boxster S for US market with Tiptronic. Could someone please send me a link to this DIY? Thanks, Bruce
  8. Thanks, but speaking just for me, no interest in buying a one touch. Boxster top is already much faster than my friend's 3 series BMW. I'll just hold the button down for the few seconds it takes and keep $ in my pocket for other mods/repairs.
  9. 2001 Boxster S with Tiptronic - Last night as I pulled in the driveway, got an urge to see how well parking brake might stop the car. Admittedly had no reason to do that, just wanted to see what would happen. Rolling at about 5 MPH with Tip in D and feet off of both brake and gas pedals, I pulled up on the lever while holding the release button down. I applied just enough pressure to generate some resistance at the lever. When I did that there was a bang or clunk from the rear end. I released the lever and drove it around fopr a while to make sure nothing odd was going to happen. There were no abnormal noises and acceleration / braking performance seemed normal. Any idea what caused the bang?
  10. Too late now, but you should have called the police as soon as you got to the car so that an officer could investigate and provide an official report.. The accident report may have carried more weight with your insurance company and the insurance company of the truck owner.
  11. 2001 Boxster S Tiptronic with 24K miles. Noticed lately that throttle reponse coming off idle is not as sharp as it used to be. There seems to be a dead spot just off idle or when lightly "blipping" the throttle. If I press lightly on the pedal with the transmission in park and raise RPM to around 1200 RPM, engine speed fluctuates +/- 100 RPM. After doing that and releasing throttle, idle will sometimes sit around 850-900 then eventually drop. If I punch the throttle, response seems to be much quicker. What does the group recommend? Clean throttle body? Can someone give me a link to cleaning instuctions? Thanks, Bruce
  12. has set their status

  13. I've had the "loose change" sound from behind my left ear for several years now. Do a search and you will find lots of discussion on the topic of top noise. In my case the noise is coincident with road bumps, so think it is a body/top issue, not IMB at least in my case. Have not been able to track down the source on my '01 S Tip, so keep driving and turn the radio up.
  14. I had an occasional 1128 code on an '01 S Tip. Removed MAF and sprayed clean with MAF cleaning fluid back in October '09. No more codes. Cheap fix for $8 and 0.5 hours work.
  15. It is possible that the oil film came from the power steering reservoir just forward. The cap on the power steering reservoir is vented. Check your power steering fluid level. If it is low, bet that is wharere the film came from.
  16. I agree with Mike, odds aren't good of the warranty even meeting what you pay for it. I bought an extended warranty when I bought my 2001 Boxster S in 2005. My first Porsche and didn't know what level of reliability to expect. I paid over $3000 for a very comprehensive 36 month warranty package. I collected only $400, and taht was to replace a rear wheel bearing that the previous owner damaged hitting a curb as evidenced by ding on RR wheel. NEVER AGAIN!
  17. The steering "bellows" are the polymer boots on either end of the rack and pinion steering gear that cover and protect the inner tie rod ends. Their function is similar to CV boots, with the exception that they only have to flex, not rotate also. Look for components on the front axle just inboard from the outer tie rod ends that are similar in appearance to the CV joint boots on the rear axle.
  18. Does operating at a higher prcentage of time at lower temperature cause the ECM to keep fuel injection richer and lower MPG?
  19. It is highly unlikely to be the power steering pump. All the pump does is provide power for hydraulic assist. The only way a power steering pump can create a vague on center feel is if it produces too much flow. That can only be caused by a stuck flow control valve in the pump. If that has occured you will note other problems like loss of power assist at idle or when decelerating on an off ramp. Your problem is likely one of the following, 1. Tires - inflation and tread condition can influence what you feel. 2. Wear in the R&P gear, or worn suspension components or tie rod ends. Check for free play around center with ignition switch in position to unlock the column but with the engine off. If there is play in the steering wheel as you rotate the wheel back and forth holding it with one hand between your thumb and forefinger, you should start inspecting where the plat comes from. 3. If you don't find any problems with the above, is it perhaps just an ubsubstantiated feeling? BTW, I've been a steering engineer at TRW for >30 years.
  20. The alternate sourcing is a result of the global economy and manufacturers taking advantage of the lowest cost vendor for what is basically a catalog item.
  21. Mike, I'm confused. The 7.2 DME codes on this website shows: P1128 Oxygen sensing adaptation, idle range, bank 1 P1130 Oxygen sensing adaptation, idle range, bank 2 Can you provide more insight? Thanks.
  22. If it was a vacuum leak why do I only get a code for one bank? Is it possible opposite bank code P1128 is pending but hasn't set yet?
  23. I have repeated P1130 codes that happen every couple of weeks just as the engine warms to normal operating temp if I get stopped at a traffic light. I erase the code and CEL stays off for weeks at a time. Conventional wisdom on this board is that code is set by MAF, not due to a problem with O2 sensor. I cleaned the MAF two weeks ago, but the light came on again this morning. Car runs perfectly with no perceived problems other than the CEL. Car is a US Boxster S, 2001 model built in Finland with Tiptronic. 1. How do I further diagnose to determine if it is MAF or is actually O2 sensor? 2. If it is the O2, can someone provide a photo of the location for the sensro that sets P1130 and replacement instructions. Thanks, Bruce
  24. I bought my 2001 S used. It came with two keys, one had remote and one did not. The one without was a replacement that the non-Porsche dealer I bought it from had made for a spare. My guess is that you can get a key with remote made and programmed at a Porsche dealer. My 2001 S also came with speakers only in the dash. Amazing, but true. You can look into options to add speakers to the doors and or rear package shelf. On the hard top, I'd recommend looking on eBay. There are ususally several up for bids, and if you're lucky or wait long enough, you can find one with the same color as your car.
  25. I've researched the P1130 code on this board and find that the usual suspect cause is an air leak in the intake or a dirty/bad MAF. I'll start with working on those areas, but have some questions based on what I've read on this board. My car is a US 2001 Boxster S with Tiptronic @ 22K miles. I've had (4) P1130 code events since last March. Each time I erase the code, it doesn't come back for at least 3 or 4 weeks. The odd thing is that it always comes on at the same place/time. There is a traffic light about 5 miles from my house, just far enough to get the engine fully warm. The CEL came on each time when I've been stopped at that traffic light. Questions based on what I've read on other topics on this board: 1. If it is a MAF or intake leak, why do I only get an error code for one bank? Wouldn't those affect both sides of the engine? Or might there be some pending codes for opposite bank and my cheap OBDII reader doesn't show them. 2. Other topics on this board mention diganosing problems by disconnecting the MAF. Is the MAF active when the engine is at idle? 3. Any other advice on resolving my P1130 code? Thanks, Bruce
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