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tholyoak

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Everything posted by tholyoak

  1. tholyoak
    ROW cars do not have to meet OBDII standards and thus only have one cam sensor, this is all that is needed to control the variocam. Todd It sure does. Both banks are monitored the same. Actually, hes right. I just noticed both he and the original poster both have ROW cars. For whatever reason, ROW cars do not monitor the bank 2 intake cam, only US cars do. So, are you saying there is not a cam sensor on bank 2 for the ROW engines? That's strange.
  2. tholyoak
    This is the support topic for the DIY Tutorial 3.4 Swap PDF. Please post here if you have any questions or feedback.
  3. tholyoak
    Porsche DTC 30 is as he states: 'Engine Compartment Temp Sensor' You have a problem with the wiring or the engine compartment temp sensor itself. To test the wiring, and the sensor: Pull off the connector (located on the passenger side intake manifold) and measure its resistance across the sensor terminals, it should be 2.4 kohm,. Also check that you have 5V at the sensor by pulling off the connector at the sensor and measuring across the two terminals of the connector with the ignition switch on. Should read 5 V. Todd
  4. tholyoak
    Unfortunately, if he generated enough pressure in the system to 'blow a hole' in the new coolant tank, it sounds to me as if there is a rather large leak between the cooling system and the cylinders. This could be a head gasket but also could be a cracked cylinder liner. I have a 2.5L engine on a stand in my garage right now that had a cracked cylinder sleeve. From what I have heard, the cylinder cracking is more common than blown head gaskets on these motors. Regardless, driving it in this condition probably did not help and could lead to bent valves in short order. A simple compression/leakdown test will confirm the problem in short order. Due to the complexity of the cam timing and the need to remove the engine for a head gasket replacement, I highly doubt you will get it done for anywhere near $1000. With the new generation of Porsche engines it is usually more economical to get a remanufactured unit from Porsche than have someone repair it. This is especially true on an engine of this mileage. Todd
  5. tholyoak
    ToolPants http://www.etoolcart.com/index.asp?PageAct...amp;ProdID=8893 Here is the link, I found it cheaper on ebay though Todd
  6. tholyoak
    Thanks everyone, I think I have found a similar set of tools as those shown by ToolPants made by SIR tools that is reasonably priced. Todd
  7. tholyoak
    If you decide to sell the car as is, I am interested in purchasing it. Good luck Todd
  8. tholyoak
    Thanks for all the suggestions. All of these places have AMP extraction tools, but none seem appropriate for the type of AMP connector I have shown. I was hoping someone had experience with this and could tell me I need a particular set of tools rather than buying a bunch of incorrect tools or spending an hour searching the internet for something that may work. Todd
  9. tholyoak
    I already tried Radio Shack, however they only seem to have the round pin extractors and were very confused when I mentioned I needed pin extractors for AMP connectors. They thought I was working on my stereo. Todd
  10. tholyoak
    Anyone know where to get the tools to remove the pins fro the AMP connectors on the DME harness? Thanks Todd
  11. tholyoak
    I just replaced my rear window, total cost was under $250. I removed the top from the frame and took it to the local top place. That night I got it back and reinstalled the canvas on the frame. Pretty straight forward. Todd
  12. tholyoak
    Might just be the overflow line on the PS reservoir. Todd
  13. tholyoak
    You can access the one on the passenger side if you remove the air/oil separator. If you are going to go to all the trouble to get at it I would probably just replace it while you are in there. Cleaning the sensor itself won't do much, it is just a magnetic hall sensor. To properly diagnose the problem without taking things apart you will need an oscilloscope. Todd
  14. tholyoak
    Not true, at least on the early 5.2 motronic cars. I just programmed one of my '99 DME's with a ROW program using my PST2, it simply ignores the second cam sensor and the after cat O2 sensors. Todd
  15. tholyoak
    Since this has happened after storage I would check to see you have continuity in the wiring harness, perhaps someone was snacking on it during storage. With an ohm meter you should have a closed circuit between pin 2 on the cam sensor connectors and pin 21 on the DME connector. Also pin 1 is ground and should show a closed circuit between it pin 34 on the DME connector. Finally pin 3 is a 5v supply from pin 53 on the DME connector and should show a closed circuit between them. If the wiring harness checks out then I would replace the sensor. Todd
  16. tholyoak
    The codes are obtained from the dealer based upon the VIN. If you buy the controllers used makes sure they come with the codes as most dealers won't give you the codes without proof of ownership of the car they came from. What year is your car. Depending on the year,I may be able to program it for you. Todd
  17. tholyoak
    Anyone know the part number for the shift boot with aluminum horseshoe? I know it is available from Carnewal but I figured it would be easier to get it from the dealer if it is available. Thanks Todd
  18. tholyoak
    Have you checked your fuel pressure? Todd
  19. tholyoak
    My understanding of Segment A and B are they are involved in the DME adaptation/learning process and dictate the amount of time in two different driving segments. The fact that these values are not at there stipulated value seems to suggest that you have not put the car through enough driving cycles such that the DME adaptation/learning progress is finished. This would mean that the fuel trims etc will change until the OBD readiness status is achieved. The fact that your fuel trims continue to change suggest that the adaptation of the DME is not complete yet and comparing the output actual values to the expected values may not be too informative. Todd
  20. tholyoak
    He did. they are the range 1 (idle) and range 2 (off idle) values in his table. The off idle value on bank 2 is a bit out of spec, but only slightly. That coupled with the low MAF reading and the high idle may suggest a minor false air source somewhere. I had a problem with an idle valve where the engine would start and stall several times before it would continue to run, once running it was fine. The idle valve seemed to operate correctly physically but after I replaced it with a new one the problem stopped. Upon closer inspection it seemed that the little door mechanism seemed quite loose so I assumed it was just worn out and unable to properly function. I also had a completely gummed up one where upon removal it simply wasn't moving. In this case the car had a hard time starting when cold since the idle valve was essentially frozen in an open position. The idle speed would steadily increase as the car warmed up, as you might expect. In either case I never had a check engine light. Another question I have, since the fuel trims are only a bit off on one side is what is the condition of the plugs? Todd
  21. tholyoak
    But does the door move freely when you apply light pressure with a screwdriver? Does the idle change when you unplug it with the car running? Todd
  22. tholyoak
    have you checked to see that the idle valve is not gummed up and therefore not regulating your idle speed? This would also create a static false air source resulting in the low value for your MAF readings. Todd
  23. tholyoak
    The alarm box is also the immobilizer. If you have the original keys and the proper codes you could program the old keys to match the new immobilser if you need one. If you just need a DME buy a new DME and have it matched to the old immobiliser. Based upon the state of the car, I would suggest you get the factory manuals and give them a read. Todd
  24. tholyoak
    Yes the alarm (imobiliser) is under the seat. Your best bet is to go to a wrecker and get a matched DME/alarm set from the donor car, that way you can get all the codes (alarm, DME, learning codes for keys, transponder codes etc) based upon the donor vin and transplant all of this into your project car. Todd
  25. tholyoak
    I am missing the DME completley. What are the immobilizer codes, I was under the inpression that I did need the cat numbers and type of car. What is a good option besides new. The DME and the driveblock (alarm) computer must be matched or the car will not run. If you don't have the DME you need at a minimum the immobilizer code from your car to program into the new dme so the car will run. If you buy a used dme you will need the immobilizer and dme codes from the dme you purchase in order to program it to match your car so it will all work. This programming can be done with the PST2 or the new PIWIS tool. You can obtain the codes from your dealer based upon the VIN of your car. Todd
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