Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Mother

Contributing Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    349

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Mother

  1. Mother
    I agree and will wait for sensor to show up and head to parts store or salvage yard. I tried searching online parts and what a pain.<_<
  2. Mother
    Logray, I just ordered the sensor and comes with no wires and have to make my own harness. Good idea with blow dryer or maybe my Durametric scanner shows intake air temp and if wires are reversed I would guess it will show a neg number I hope. Trouble also if finding a connector.
  3. Mother
    The only measurement taken by the MAF in my case will be the intake Air Flow and does not matter where it is located as long as it before the compressor and as we know there is not much room in the engine comp to move much around.
  4. Mother
    You mentioned checking resistance for plus and minus and was wondering if IAT sensor is not marked which is the positive using meter?
  5. Mother
    Please excuse the protype intake it has been changed, however the IAT would be relocated on the IC on the out port after the cooling takes place from compressed air before entering throttle body. I was concerned about using eng grd and seemed that it should be grounded thru the MAF ground wire.
  6. Mother
    Yes, hope he is well, however just say the magic word "OIL" and see what happens.
  7. Mother
    Logray, Sorry for confusion I am actually removing the MAF temp sensor (by cutting the wire) and just relocating it to separate IAT sensor in the IC for the SC I believe it will be a more accurate reading of true air temp for DME. Thanks for feedback.
  8. Mother
    I wish to add a separate IAT (inlet air temp sensor) to my SC rather then the one in the MAF, however wondering about the ground wire for a 2000 - 996. Would it be "Grounded" by "T" off the BRN/WHT wire and cut and use the BLU/GR as the sensor temp or is the sensor grounded to frame or another way?
  9. Mother

    Aaron hope your car is running great? Since I am now installing my SC again and have them re-map my DME I was thinking of upgrading and installing a temp sensor...some have suggested a porsche 928 IAT sensor. Would you have a diagram on wiring it into the MAF sensor wire loom and if possible is there a PN# for the sensor that is used in your kit.

    Thanks

    Steve

  10. Mother
    I ran a tank full 100LL in my 84 bmw years back and the car ran cooler, response was faster and was pleased for a week then noticed that the engine sounded noisier maybe loser is better word in a strange way so mixed rest with standard gas and stayed with that since engine noise quit.
  11. Mother
    The voltage across bat=12.45V alt + to ground (eng) = 12.45V also to the terminal block in eng bay reading was 12.48V. Replace with new reg from pelican and now alt does not work at all when tested - reinstalled old reg - retested and worked great. The PN# I got from pelican was F00M 144 136-395 and was for my year. They are checking it now.
  12. Mother
    Thanks, I will revisit that thread allot of good info... the reason I dismissed it was that you actually had voltage build, with mine I have none. It is interesting problem because it was charging fine until installing my SC which leads me to belt slippage problem but checking these things first can save me 3 hrs labor to uninstall everything.
  13. Mother
    I will check the battery cables I am not sure what the resistance should be. Is there a resistance value if I go from the positive cable on battery back to the cable on the alt?
  14. Mother
    Not sure by what you mean "Torque"? The cable is as old as the car 2000, but it has been in dry climate and seems I do not get any voltage build at all. Just wondering what the connector with the 2 wires that connects to the alternator do? I am replacing the alt reg anyway, but it did check out good at shop.
  15. Mother
    I removed my alternator since It was not charging even alittle when cold. I removed it had it checked out and it was "good", I am installing a new regulator since it is out and am thinking of belt slippage problem since I run a custom supercharger however at this time am changing setup to get more grip on alternator. I have a question the large wire on alt I get battery voltage but was wondering what I can check on the connector going to it if any that may cause a zero charge problem.
  16. Mother
    The upgraded fuel map from FVD I installed over the X51 map worked fine with no problems and runs good except alternator not working crap :cursing: off comes the SC again.
  17. Mother
    Unfortunately I missed them actually programming it, however I uploaded it to FVD for tuning of the map itself and will find out if any problems exsist. The software I use to install the modded maps is different using .XTT files and do not require PIWIS. My understanding is that there are two chips in the ECU that need to match to be programmed like a base map chip and fuel map chip and they need to talk to each other bad explanation I know but it's the best I have and should come with a disclaimer. Curious with PIWIS, does it have the option for installing the X51 for the 3.4 engine.?
  18. Mother
    They where able to program it with X51 with Piwis and did not require authorization or any special codes and as far as I know I have a 7.2 ECU but will check when Durametric is hooked up next time?
  19. Mother
    Need to have car flashed with X51 software is this software available at the dealers and can be installed readily if requested for 2000 996.
  20. Mother
    Never mind found answer.
  21. Mother
    I was told by the FVD programmers that I need x51 software in the ECU/DME but never got a reason why? Why would I need this I never needed it in the past to program my car?
  22. Mother
    I assume this is due to PIWIS Reply FVD if you increase the flashcounter which is being triggered when flashing with the Piwis (Porsche Factory tester) it is correct that the DME locks you out after 3 or 5 flash sessions.
  23. Mother
    I will ask FVD tuning as it would take the fun out of programming,
  24. Mother
    Thanks, I had one more question is that in Porsche training they say that the DME can only be programmed 5 times before locking itself out? Any truth to this.?
  25. Mother
    Well it's up and running :clapping:.. the problem was since porsche orginally programmed the dme and immo with the vins they lost the info/codes and they can not download from immo to verify the numbers I gave them originally which did not work. Even with the new immo the original dme could not connect to program so off to the salvage yard for a dme brought it to them and they where able to program it with the original vin of my car in the immo to match the dme I gave them and vaaaroooom. Moral of story always keep original vins of the immo it's the most important. I would like to thank everyone for your input on this matter and now it's on to bricking my new setup. :clapping:
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.