johnp77777

Victor, here's a reprint of a post I did last year on the same topic... ------------------------------------------------------------------- Below is a reply to a query I sent to Rod Birch at Car Audio Innovations in So-Cal. I asked about reasonable upgrades that can be done in stages. I hope Rod doesn't mind the use of his response publically... Hi John, thanks for the email. That's cool that you got a car with the hifi package already, the guys without the door speaker location are at a serious disadvantage, and it's costly to convert the door panels and add that location. The drawback to having the 996 is trying to make economical upgrades. There are no strengths in the factory setup, 'simply replacing speakers isn't sufficient because the factory amp is underpowered and can damage the new speakers by overheating them with distortion. Keeping the factory headunit initially can save you some money, and I have a Becker Din/RCA adapter plug that'll allow it to interface with an aftermarket amplifier. Maybe instead of doing a 3 way component set in the dash and doors, separate subs and amplifier, maybe do the economical version of just a small 4 channel quality amplifier to run a dash component set by Focal and better quality door subwoofers. You can just use head unit power to run the rear speakers, even leaving the stock ones in initially. Eventually, changing out the factory head unit will be wise to maximize the money you've spent on other, better quality components. For an oem look I really like the Nakamichi, it looks factory but trounces the performance of the Becker unit. If you just want to upgrade dash and rear side speakers, no sweat, I'd recommend a set of 4" Focals for the dash, $379.95/set, and 4" coaxials for the rear at $179.95. We can mount up the speakers to your grills for $95 for the dash mount and $65 for the rear speaker mount. You can ship your grills to me and I mount them up and ship them back, they're kind of tricky, the speakers mount to the grills, and a good speaker mount requires a rigid, airtight mount. A 4 channel amp to run the dash and door speakers is $479.95, vs. a 5 channel amp to run all speakers at $649.95. The door subs I like are the Focal 5" at $249.95 each. let me know your thoughts. Congrats again, I hope to have my own 996 in the next few years! -Rod

It is probably that plastic "flag" that broke off. It cancels the turn signal when you center the wheel. BTW, try not to hold down the turn signal when it's trying to cancel. It clicks "hard" and just feels like it might lead to premature breakage if done too much.

'99 C2, Tiptronic, daily driver 71,000 miles, 3rd owner (bought at 42Kmi) Normal wear and tear and all recalls done The following are actual failures that needed to be done: -Front Cowl leak (clogged drain) at 48K -Airbag light on-twice (seatbelt connectors replaced), mileage unknown -Replaced front control arms (Idler Arms? Drop Links?) at 52K (rattling) -Replaced door speakers at 52K (blown) -Valve cover gasket leak repaired at 52K -Turn signal replaced at 60k -Sun roof makes noise but I'm living with it for now (rattling) -RMS and intermediate shaft seal (upgrade part) at 71K -Vent breather (?) leak repaired At 71K -Trans pan gasket seeping, replaced at 71k -Valve cover (same one) leak repaired at 71K Luckily all but the intermediate shaft upgrade part were covered by my extended warranty. This last round was a bit of a surprise but we still love the car and intend to keep it as long as practical, possibly replace with another. (As long as I can get an extended warranty!) jp

The Bridgestone S02's don't have the best noise rating. Not the worst either. I've heard some tires change noise characteristics as they age. With the low tread wear rating these have, it won't be long before you'll have the opportunity to try a quieter tire. For an OE, the Michelin Pilot Sport Ribs are pretty quiet. I only got 12K out of the rears but the fronts are fine.

I agree there's some comfort with the certified used cars. Since my wife just HAD to have this 996 she found online from a private owner, I absolutely insisted on getting a third party warranty. $2400 from Western General...5 years, 75K miles (above the 40K it had when bought), bumper to bumper with no deductable...best insurance I ever bought. It has paid for itself in claims too...Like others say, it's more reliable than other super cars/exotics and even cheaper to repair. For the cost though, you would be surprised at what can go wrong and how much repairs are. Definitely not a Nissan, Toyota or Honda here. Still, the driving experience seems well worth it. Blasting over the Dumbarton Bridge at sunrise is a great start to the workday and coming home via Half-Moon Bay is the best ending.

OK Mr Wizard...what do you mean by "retrain" them?

Demon, I'd love to get one from you. $$?

20-21 mpg combined, daily commute 23.5 on long trip, all freeway, above 95-110 mph range 25.6 mpg, same trip, 75-85 mph. Long trip readings were for an entire tank full at speed noted. MY99 C2 coupe, tiptronic with 60Kmi

Sean, my 99 c2 manual calls for 30Kmi between plug changes. Definitely improves idle at that frequency. I don't notice a performance impact. I too am leery about 15Kmi on the oil. Being synthetic, I go 10K. So far, I haven't had to add oil between changes and I'm at 60Kmi on the odo.

Below isa reply to a query I sent to Rod Birch at Car Audio Innovations in So-Cal. I asked about reasonable upgrades that can be done in stages. I hope Rod doesn't mind the use of his response publically... Hi John, thanks for the email. That's cool that you got a car with the hifi package already, the guys without the door speaker location are at a serious disadvantage, and it's costly to convert the door panels and add that location. The drawback to having the 996 is trying to make economical upgrades. There are no strengths in the factory setup, 'simply replacing speakers isn't sufficient because the factory amp is underpowered and can damage the new speakers by overheating them with distortion. Keeping the factory headunit initially can save you some money, and I have a Becker Din/RCA adapter plug that'll allow it to interface with an aftermarket amplifier. Maybe instead of doing a 3 way component set in the dash and doors, separate subs and amplifier, maybe do the economical version of just a small 4 channel quality amplifier to run a dash component set by Focal and better quality door subwoofers. You can just use head unit power to run the rear speakers, even leaving the stock ones in initially. Eventually, changing out the factory head unit will be wise to maximize the money you've spent on other, better quality components. For an oem look I really like the Nakamichi, it looks factory but trounces the performance of the Becker unit. If you just want to upgrade dash and rear side speakers, no sweat, I'd recommend a set of 4" Focals for the dash, $379.95/set, and 4" coaxials for the rear at $179.95. We can mount up the speakers to your grills for $95 for the dash mount and $65 for the rear speaker mount. You can ship your grills to me and I mount them up and ship them back, they're kind of tricky, the speakers mount to the grills, and a good speaker mount requires a rigid, airtight mount. A 4 channel amp to run the dash and door speakers is $479.95, vs. a 5 channel amp to run all speakers at $649.95. The door subs I like are the Focal 5" at $249.95 each. let me know your thoughts. Congrats again, I hope to have my own 996 in the next few years! -Rod from the desk of Rod Birch www.caraudioinnovations.com specializing in audio upgrades for the Porsche 911 "time spent with a customer is time invested in a friendship" 1-800-892-6430

Similar situation here too Paul (99 C2 996 cpe, tiptronic). . I just did my 60K service and went on a 1300 mile trip. Car runs flawless, always maintained. I notice I run around 1.5 bar at idle (in drive) until the car gets really warm (185+ degrees), then it drops into the 1.0-1.2 range. Never burn any oil between changes at 10Kmiles. Off idle, it matches the pressures listed in another recent post for a 2004 C4. Never asked the dealer since the car runs great. Before the warranty runs out I will probably ask tho. I do commute a couple days per week in this car. Stoplight traffic and some bumper to bumper on the freeway but it's mostly moving above 25 mph. Being rather large, I was happy to feel like I could go another 1300 miles after last week's trip. As good if not more comfortable than my 'toyo highlander! Cross country definitely possible. jp

My remote quit working. It's because the plastic dimple that presses against the electronic switch is worn down. I just need a new cover, not the $200 key itself. Anyone got one or know where I can get a used one? It's a one button remote. jp

Would you happen to know what normal pressure is, when sitting at idle, engine warm and in drive (tip), A/C on or off?

With a mismatch of Kumho's and Bridgestones on my car when purchased used, I was dying for a reason to replace them. I wanted low noise first and foremost. Wet traction and decent tread life second. I didn't mind sacrificing some performance since the car is faster than I can drive it anyway. I wanted the PS2's but the PS Sport Ribs had the N rating and similar specs/cost. So, I went with the N rating. Still wonder about that one. I did consider the F1's but more than one shop told me they get noisier with age. Anyway, I love the Sport Ribs. Great traction wet or dry. 8K miles later, the rears seem to have lots of tread left. Granted, they don't have that cool arrowhead tread shape. I'm not sure if they are getting noiser with age. It's possible but hard to tell. One last thought-A friend of mine believes in going cheap on tires, drive the heck out of them, and replace often. Others (like me) tend to sway towards quality parts for a quality car. Choice is yours.

Glad my situation didn't get this bad. My buddy at the car wash noticed a trail of water behind the brake pedal one day. A small tube attached to a wetvac and 45 minutes later, the front tubes were clean as a whistle. All the leaves and junk were gone too. BTW, Kim's notes earlier this year helped me get right to the problem. Now I think I'll try to track down those rear drain lines before they give me problems. I guess an annual PM should be noted as a pre-winter prep item for this.

My 996 came with mismatched sets when I bought it used. Ecksta's on the back (look like MX's but not sure), Bridgestone S02's on the front. Anyway, I couldn't wait to replace them all. The Kumho's were so noisy. I went with michelin pilot sport ribs at replacement time. Noise was the main reason but performance is totally awesome too. Performance for me was a secondary consideration since the car's limits are higher than my abilities anyway.

I too bought an extended warranty from Western General for my 99-996. Tried warrantydirect.com right when the law changed last July...refused due to the new liability requirements in CA. Anyway, because the car was under 50Kmi (42K) and 5 years (by 5 months), I was able to get a 5yr-75,000mi extension on the new car warranty for $2500, ZERO deductable! I did check with St Creek Porsche service people as a reference. They work with WG all the time. I've used the warranty twice. Worn sway bar parts and a door speaker. Ron at St Creek is amazed they covered both without question. He said he's never seen a better warranty. I'm tempted to see if they will cover the sunroof noises. Ron said he doubts it since nothing is malfunctioning. Then again...Ron didn't think they'd cover the sway bar either. Cheers! :cheers: jp

All of your symptoms sound like mine except I haven't tried the steering wheel "push-pull" thing. Mine is a clear thump or knock under the passenger's left foot. Took it to the dealer and he said it's a couple of warn mechanical arms on the (I think) stabilizer bar. No matter, they're $50 each (x2) and an hour of labor to replace. Cheap enough for a very annoying problem. Seems odd a metal part, not the bushings, will wear out in 48K miles. Granted, it's a MY99.

I know this is an old post but I've been researching this same situation on my 996 and want to get that fog light working. I've seen a DIY post where the person ran a jumper external to the harness, between the left and right rear fog lights. I'm more interested in something more "factory". I've found the wiring diagram at ALLDATADIY.com and noticed it shows the connection being complete back to the light switch in the dash. Now, if I can find where the disconnect is physically located, it should be simple to make the connection...assuming it's simple to get to! BTW, I've downloaded the sections of the lighting schematic and patched them all together as a .bmp file. It's about 11"h x 23"w if printed (at kinko's). I've also highlighted the specific wires for the fog lights in green. It's attached to this post. jp

Sorry, the .bmp was too large (6+ Megs!) to post. If you want this wiring schematic, in .jpg format (368K), drop me a line. jp