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    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
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    Porsche Cayenne S

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  1. can you post a DIY mine also stopped working if I tap on the middle light switch the light comes on but then it goes off like if a contact is loose
  2. Any DIY for replacing the roll up shades on a 2004 Porsche cayenne S my daughter finally got the best of it and ripped it. The tear is at the top part where the shade hangs on the door hooks. I don't know if it can be fixed the tear is at he very top next to a metal rod that is housed in the plastic casing that hangs on the door hooks. Also where can I get a replacement part I checked sun coast's website and didn't see them I found one on ebay $140.00. Thank you guys for the great posts.
  3. Frequency is constant, between 50 and 55 mph. faster it goes away I'm having another drive sent to me, so I'll replace it and see.
  4. Replaced the drive shaft, took it to a mechanic as I couldn't get to it without a lift, but now I get a vibration at 50 mph and a humming noise. could it be the new drive shaft is bad?... the vibration goes away at higher speed but it's most noticeable at 50mph if you put a bunch of coins in the little tray by the arm rest you can hear the coins vibrating.
  5. My drive shaft went out. I'm comparing the two vendors for the drive shaft. Coloradodriveshafts.com and VertexAuto.com VertexAuto: Rebuilt drive shaft they do not balance them Price is $389.00 + tax + $500 (core they say they can reduce it to $200) + shipping (around $30.00). You have to pay for shipping the core back to them to get your $200 back (another $30.00) so total: $449.00 plus any applicable taxes. Coloradodriveshafts: Rebuilt drive shaft they do a high speed balance Price is $450.00 + tax + $50.00 (core), Shipping is included (no tax in my case I'm in CA) so total: $450.00 I'm going with the coloradodriveshafts one, the guy I spoke with answered all my questions and other members have used their drive shafts as well.
  6. Another annoying problem with this cayenne is I have my radio stations set to each radio button. so I click on a button on the radio console it takes me to the station ok no big deal. If I use the steering wheel +/- buttons to switch stations instead of moving to the next station in memory it actually starts turning up the station frequency. for example I'm listening to 104.3 instead of moving to the next station 105.9 it moves to 104.4 if I keep pressing the + it will keep moving up 104.5 .... very annoying so I have to click the buttons on the radio console making the ones on the steering wheel useless. I looked at the manual, didn't find anything that deals with the steering wheel buttons. are you having the same issue and did you guys find a work around?
  7. A couple of issues with my Cayenne, the range of the remote control is very short if I walk about 3 cars away pressing the remote doesn't do anything. I have to get about 6 feet from the car before it works. The other thing is synching the two remotes. I have a remote and my wife has hers, I have all my confort settings such as horn beep on lock, all doors unlock, seat and mirror position. So after I set all of this up, I try to do the same with her remote. I set exactly the same settings. The problem occurs when I go back to my remote everything is back to factory now. then if I set again everything using my remote when I use hers everything is back to factory. It's hella annoying. Any thoughts?..
  8. You posted in a 4 year old thread which is likely why you are getting no response. I don't recall anyone posting about a "screw on the oil filter housing" - not on V8 engines. There never has been one on the V8 engines (this thread is about the Cayenne Turbo (V8). Only the V6 Cayenne has the screw on the oil filter housing. thanks for clarifying about the oil filter I was confused because some models had it and others didn't so I wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something. I probably should have created a new thread I posted in this one because it was the first one that came up when I did a seach for oil change. and I figured the V8 and Turbo were the same procedure.
  9. bump come on folks I posted the pictures someone finish answering the questions about the oil filter and the drain plugs
  10. nobody posted pictures for these so called DIY's, I'll upload some pictures 2004 cayenne S, I just took off the bottom covers and my filter is in the front it doesn't have any screws or bolt on it. The casing is black plastic. All the previous posts referred to having to loosen up a screw to remove the filter. could it be that on the old models the oil filter casing doesn't have a screw?.. I'll post a picture in a minute I'm hoping for a quick reply to whether I can go ahead and remove the plastic casing just by hand instead (no bolts / screws are there to remove) I have not completed the oil change yet I just took the underbody plastic covers below are pictures of the car. I want to confirm how to remove the oil filter and the correct drain plugs to use better safe than sorry. Steps 1. Lift car or put on Ramps (in either case make sure to use STANDS as well!!! do not trust your jack or ramps alone), put foot brake on, and put stoppers on the rear wheels (pieces of a 2x4 would do) 2. Remove underbody plastic covers you will need (TORX 25 / 30 / Phillips screwdriver) 3. Remove filter casing / Remove oil filter / drain filter oil (as someone posted it's a good idea to put a plastic ziplock bag on the filter before removing it) 4. Put new filter back on / put O ring and lube with some oil / Tighten filter casing (Got filter from pelicanparts.com I think $13.00) 5. Remove drain plug #1 6. Remove drain plug #2 7. put back drain plugs #1, #2 8. Fill car with 0w-40 Mobil1 Synthetic Oil (Got mine from walmart at $6.25 / Qt, please post sources as this is the cheapest I was able to find) 9. Remove stops from rear wheels, remove foot brake, remove ramps / unjack the car 10. park car in a leveled surface and let sit for a minute. Check the oil level on the dipstick add oil if necessary. 11. Run the car for 3 minutes let sit for a minute, check the oil level again and check the car for leaks 12. Put car back on ramps and put underbody plastic covers You're done :)
  11. To answer my own question, the answer is kind of silly. The reason the handle (tab) would not slide down because I had the glove box on the locked position so what was sticking out is the locking prong for the locking mechanism. The solution was to put the key in there turn it to unlock position and I was able to slide the whole handle for the glove box. The problem was cause by a little piece of plastic that acts as the pivot point as the previous poser mentioned, this is a weak design and will fail in most cases. I ended up doing the same fix I drilled a smooth hole to fit a screw in there. I put a washer to allow for movement and an extra nut so the screw won't come loose. I'm posting some picture DIY: You need a T20 torx bit 1. Remove the Trim (in my case it's titanium silver trim) start from the end near the door and pull on it gently it will pop off. continue popping the rest of the tabs in the trim. I used a credit card to help it come off easily. 1.5 if your glove box is not open look for a hole in the middle of where the trim used to be. I think it's the biggest hole available. To open the compartment sit in the passenger seat facing the glove box, put in a screw driver in the big hole at a 45 degree angle pointing downward and to the left. press gently toward the console (like if you were checking if a steak was done don't press too hard as there are other plastic parts that might break) 2. To remove the box there are 3 screws behind the trim that you have to remove. it's Torx 20, there is an additional screw next to the lock of the glove box, and two more screws that are now visible on each side the open glove box, they are inside rubber guards. 3. Look at the bottom of the glove box, there is a screw in the middle that's holding a black plastic cover. Remove that screw and pull the black cover from each end it will snap loose 4. After you remove the black cover there are two more screws that are now visible you can take those off 5. Now slide the glove box off gently rock it side to side while pulling it will come off. be careful not to pull it all the way out there are some wires and the ac tubing attached to the glove box. You can leave those there and rest it on something or you can remove the wires and the tube and put them back on later (that's what I did) 6. Make sure your glove box is on the unloked position !!!! slide out the tab that has the lock where the key is used to lock / unlock. 7. If you are lucky you will have the plastic tab that would have fallen down when the plastic pivot broke. The plastic tab hooks into the wiring that goes to the locking mechanism that holds the latch. 8. All you got to do now is position it back in the middle and put in a screw where the plastic pivot used to be. add a washer and tighten with a nut You're ready to go. go inside brag to the wife a bit and have a cold one. Sorry if this is too long but I rather post as much info than have you curse me when you have the thing open and can't figure out a step. Good luck!
  12. I was able to open the glove box and took it off, then took off the prong mechanism that is used to keep the glove box closed. I'm not able to get the part where the key goes in the glove bock locking mechanism. There seems to be a piece sticking out upward from behind it's not letting me slide the whole thing out. My problem is with the plastic mechanism behind the little tab where the key to unlock the glove box goes. I have to slide that part out to inspect it and see how to fix it. I've been at it for 40 minutes in 90 degree heat (in the shade) and the stupid thing wont come off. I don't want to break it. can someone post a diagram or instructions how to pull that button (tab) that is used to open the glove box. THanks
  13. I was pulled over today because I don't have the front license plate (just an excuse I thought). When asked for my registration I reached for the glove box and the thing wouldn't open. The button presses in and nothing happens. There is no resistance and all I hear is a little click. The cop looked at me like I was faking it, I asked him to try it himself which he did and it didn't open. so after talking back and forth he checked my registration from his computer and everything came out ok. but talk about an annoyance first the bs pull over and next the stupid glove compartment not opening. I got home and tried it few times I even tried using a credit card to help opening it by pressing the button and wedging the card near the lock mechanism nothing. I'm having some coffe at starbucks and thought about checking renntech and sure enough other people are having the same problem. why would they make a mechanism this cheap on a 60k car????? I'll try the fix when I get home. Anybody knows the cause for this breaking as I'm still perplexed at what caused it. I'm very careful with the buttons and the plastic stuff in the car as I used to own a land rover and everything would break apart if pressed too hard. So if you have any ideas what might cause this please post it. I will try to fix mine and post my findings. Thanks guys!
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