CA_Boxster

If you mix the wrong two non-compatible coolants you can create a "jello" like substance. That's one I haven't heard before. How likely is that to happen? I just use the Prestone 50/50 "all vehicle" (i.e., non-corrosive to aluminum). http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...ost&p=18105 Good thing to know. Thanks.

If you mix the wrong two non-compatible coolants you can create a "jello" like substance. That's one I haven't heard before. How likely is that to happen? I just use the Prestone 50/50 "all vehicle" (i.e., non-corrosive to aluminum).

My bad. You're correct. I was actually picturing the right thing in my head but wasn't thinking enough to realize that they were bigger than 2". They are not tweeters. That much I do know. The ones I have in mine are aftermarket though I don't recall what model. You don't get too much out of them, but I do think they help a little.

I looked into relocating the HVAC controls to the bottom at one point but I asked a couple shops about it and both told me that it required a bunch of re-wiring because the factory wiring was too short to reach. All I wanted to do with that slot was drop in cup holders and I didn't need them that badly so I stopped there. Can't offer any more info on that one. There is a pair of 2" speakers on each side of the rear deck kit. There is only a hair more than that for clearance so it's tough to go bigger. If you want to be creative then figure out how to put a single bigger (long but not tall) speaker on each side and you'll probably like it better. I didn't come up with anything that was short enough to fit vertically but you seem to be more informed than I am so you may know where to look. Make sure you measure the depth for the dash speakers. The metal crossbar in the dash limits your options. That set of MB-Quart speakers may be one of the ones that fits (the model looks familiar to me) but I don't recall as it's been a while. Sub: There is a company that makes a decent-looking molded enclosure for the passenger footwell that accomodates a 8" sub. Other than that you'e stuck with the storage compartment approach. None of the slim powered subs (as of a year ago) were thin enough to fit under the seats. Unless something new has been released... You can remove the head unit without the Porsche keys. Just use a screw driver to pry it out carefully, but protect the dash with a towel or something. You may also be interested in one of these for the double DIN: http://www.911pcar.com/Images_old/00%20996...tion%202%20.JPG

When you disconnect the battery this happens. The windows switches don't work at all. I don't recall if the automatic window drop when operating the top is affected, but it might be. If this is the cause then after a couple engine off/on cycles the windows will work again.

Thanks for the lead. I'll give him a call. I'm also going to need a 4 wheel brake job and rotorsbefore long. The expense of that one has me thinking about starting to go somewhere other than the dealer. I was going to try RMG in Sunnyvale. Do you think Marvin would be a good one to do that as well?

Reviving an old thread after finding what I could with search... I have a 2000 regular Boxster thad has has the slow coolant leak for a while now. It was VERY slow for a while but I eventually found myself topping it off regularly. Somewhere along the way I smelled the hot coolant in the trunk and pulled the carpeting back to see the puddle of coolant in the trunk. It's definitely getting worse over time so I'm going to replace the tank. I don't like the idea of paying a shop $700 for this so I'm thinking about doing it myself. I've read all the posts I could find, tomorrow I'll get n the engine compartment and determine how difficult it will be to reach the clamps and I'll decide if I want to do it. My question: Any last advise or new wisdom from the guys who have tried it (or who have tried to follow the early examples here?). Has anyone written up the steps for doing this going in from the top of the engine? I.e., not just how to reach the clamp, but how oto avoid spilling coolant everywhere, replacement clamp size, etc.?

The connections you get with the rings are fine. I drive my Boxster year-round so I don't use a maintainer in it, but the Tender Jr. is a popular choice for motorcycles and I have the quick-disconnect on my bike. It works well.

I looked into replacing a cracked rear window a couple years ago and the couple shops I asked said they could get it pretty solid but that sewing in a new window always has that risk. See if you can tell where it's dripping in (through a seam, through the thead holes, etc.) and ask your shop if they have anything that seal it with. On the plus side you don't see a lot of rain down there. we get a lot more in the Bay Area so that among other things made me decide to just replace the top.

You're right. It's in the shop today for other things and in looking over the car they said there is still room left. I probably have another 6 months to go on the fronts. Thanks for the reply. On the other hand they came up with a cam cover oil leak so I'm getting a bill today regardless...

Hi. I have a 2000 Boxster with what I thnk are the original brakes (I bought it used). It has 48k miles and the last 28k are mine. I know my brakes were down to 6mm front and 8mm rear about 8 months ago so it's about that time, but I have a question. Tonight I started to hear a squeak when backing up and it seemed like it was on just 1 spot on the wheel (I don't know if it's front or back). I rode around a bit and braked hard a few times to see if it was just dust but that made it worse. I'm pretty sure there's a bit of rubbing going on. When the brakes finally go, is it normal for it to seem like they're almost too tight? Meaning, would I be hearing and feeling contact on the rotors now? Like I said, it's about time to change the pads and rotors anyway, but I want to make sure that's all I'm hearing. The sensor never indicated that they need to be changed, but I don't know if I trust the sensor anyway. Thanks.

Let me know if #4 dies so I can put a jumpstart battery in my car :)

I just took my doors apart this weekend. Had to replace the storage compartment lid in the driver's door and fix a rattle in the passenger door. I think my rattle was due to the aftermarket speaker box that was built when I upgraded to 6.5" woofers so that isn't your issue, but I did notice that the cables that are in the door have potential to swing around a little and can hit parts that will cause a rattle. The door latch cable is a possible culprit. It hangs in the area you mentioned and has enough slack that it can bounce around. It's also a heavy enough cablethat you would hear it. The door is pretty hollow inside so there's little to hold it in place. I also noticed (on my passenger door) that the light bulb in the interior door light was not set correctly and could also have been causing a rattle. I'm not sure of that one because this is the door with the speaker enclosure I had to fix, but either way my rattle is now gone. You can find instructions for taking the door apart on here somewhere. I had a set that someone had posted in a write-up about replacing all the speakers during a stereo upgrade. It's easy. The 2nd door took me no more than 10 miutes to take apart. There are little plastic hooks on a couple pieces that are dificult to get out without breaking. I did break one, but it turned out that the same hook was already broken on the other doo and it never caused a problem that I noticed so I'm not concerned about it. Once you get the trim pieces off the interior there are 9 plastic pins that attach the interior panel to the door. These are standard cheap parts so if you want to be safe you can probably buy a pack of them at some parts store and have them onhand just in case.

Long, old thread but through the power of "search" it helped me pick my replacement battery this week so I'll add my info: Autozone Duralast 48-DL group size 48 was $85 today. Exact fit replacement with the vent tube included and the little plastic coupler that came with the tube fits the tube in the car fine. Autozone also had one of those memory things to keep all your settings while the battery is disconnected for $5. You just attach a 9v battery to it and plug the other end into your cigarette lighter. That way you don't have to reprogram the radio, clock and whatever else you may have. I don't know if these things prevent the radio from needing the radio code when you're done (I don't have the stock radio) but I bet it works for that as well.

That was my first thought, but the worn section is so narrow and I'm only a little high on the pressure I thought there might be more to it. I have 205/50-17 on the front and 255/40-17 on the rear.

I have a 2000 Bosxter with 4 Pirelli P-Zeros. The fronts are 2 years old and the rears are 1 year (2yrs front and 1yr rear seems like it's going to be the standard life of my tires). My question is this: All 4 tires have a wear pattern that I haven't seen before. One of the tread channels in the middle on each tire, about 1"-2" of width, is worn almost flat on all 4 of the tires. The other 80% of the total tread on each tire is fine. I inflate them to 36 PSI which is a little higher than recommended, but shouldn't be enough to prematurely wear the tires. Is this a normal wear pattern for aBoxster?

Interesting theory. I actually have more of them than I thought. The original ones are not on the cross-bracing, but are right on the back-most edge of that flat section on the rear trunk lid (where it curves back into the rest of the lid). I've noticed some more dimpled spots all over the flat section, too. I was wondering if air is dlowing over the top differently after this most recent install and that was flexing the trunk lid. This cross-bracing suggestion could be part of that scenario.

I have a 2000 2.7L Boxster. I noticed last night that it looks like I have 4 small dents in the flat area of the back trunk lid (where the 3rd brake light is). They're right on the horizontal crease and they are indentations as if something pushed them in from above. They aren't from anything inside the trunk pushing up from what I can see (and I rarely have much in there, anyway). The odd thing is that they're shallow, there aren't any marks on the surface and they actually look pretty evenly spaced. Either there's something going on with airflow stressing the trunk lid or something else happened to it without my knowledge. Has anyone heard of anything like this? I did have my GAHH top replaced recently by the same shop that initially put it on, so it's possible this happened at the shop, but they do all the top work for the local Porsche dealer and I can't believe they'd do something like this to the car. This is also the 2nd ime they've replaced the top for me and nothing happened the 1st time. Any ideas will be appreciated. If anyone knows about replacing tops, can you tell me if any kind of tools are used that they might have put on the trunk an used as levers to stretch the fabric or something? Thanks.

If you're doing 90mph and you find yourself suddenly sideways, the spoiler's not working... (and neither is the light) :D

The MB Quart coax may just be a better speaker thant the Bostons I had in there. Glad it worked.

Interesting approach on the sub. You could probably even make some king of bracket to lift it up 6" and fit it behind the middle of the seat and still have it mounted to the board on the floor. I might look into that for myself. I have some Kenwood components in the dash, MB Quart in the doors, Harvey kit in the back and a basic Alpine HU. Never had any problems with the sound cutting out or with the amp powering the whole thing. you may just hav a loose connection. If it's the whole dash that's cutting out on you then check your connections at the amp.

Don't use those speakers in the door. I originally put the S55 in my doors and itwas a stupid mistake. Since the doors only get low frequencies you have to put a dedicated mid-bass speaker in there. The Bostons are 2-way speakers and gave me a constant buzzing sound because they couldn't handle getting just low frequency at any kind of volume. I ended up putting some older MB Quart 6.5" in and they're great. Mine were a little deep so a new box had to be built, but I know the shop does install 6.5" MB Quart in the standard boxes. I expect that the Discus series listed in an earlier post are the ones. I know the new MB Quart are advertised as being a shallower mount.

Can you post a picture of how well that sub fits behind the seat?

Would have to see it. Might be a tweeter that fell through.

I had stuff installed so I can't speak to difficulty, but it wasn't overly expensive. I have a 2000 with the door speakers. MB Quart RWE-160 6.5" mid-bass in the doors cost $130 online recently (they're a 2004 model) and the installation required the enclosures inside the door to be pulled out and replaced with one the shop built, but the total cost for the install was $160. You can get 6.5" mid-bass speakers that fit in the stock enclosures from what I hear, but I wasn't that informed about it at the time. The shop said they put MB Quart Discuss series 6.5" in these cars all the time and I don't think those require the new box to be built because they're mounting depth is smaller. There's no modification to the car and it's stock from the outside. I had some Kenwood KFC-P403 components put in the dash about a year ago. The trick with the dash (at least on the 2000) is that you only have about 1.9" of clearance over the crossbar in the dash so a lot of speakers don't fit. The Kenwoods were shallow enough and had a low frequency range, which is what I wanted (I didn't like the tin sound of the stock speakers). The sound is improved overall and the door speakers are a HUGE improvement. I also have an Alpine HU (CDA-9865 or something like that). It's the basic HU that plays MP3s and has the color change option to make the buttons amber (which they aren't really amber so don't get your hopes set on the stock look there). All the speaker locations look stock and use the stock grills with no mods.