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carlosvquezada

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Everything posted by carlosvquezada

  1. carlosvquezada
    Massive blue smoke at start up and intermittently while driving. Funny thing is though that the smoking seems to go away after I've driven the car long enough to let the ECU adapt. The car seems to drive okay after that point but not great. So thinking that the issue was fixed, I tried to clear the check engine light by disconnecting the battery and then the check engine light comes back on and smoking starts happening again. The car was intermittently squealing yesterday. The squeal would come and go at different speeds. The car is also idling rough. It seems to be dipping down below 8000 rpm. I can smell a faint smell of burnt plastic/rubber. I am getting the 1124 O2 adaptation CEL codes. Thanks for the help. Any advice is greatly appreciated.
  2. carlosvquezada
    I just replaced my AOS also and the new unit seems to be shot already as well. Does anyone know what could cause an AOS to break so suddenly? What else is going on?
  3. carlosvquezada

    80's this weekend, score SoCal weather again finally.

  4. carlosvquezada

    whatever, whatever, Maury, shut up I do what I want!

  5. carlosvquezada

    Had to be there to hold her hand cause she was crying after she broke her nail.

  6. carlosvquezada

    Above all, love each other deeply, because love covers over a multitude of sins. 1 Peter 4:8

  7. carlosvquezada

    Merry Christmas to all and to all a goodnight!

  8. carlosvquezada
    Thank you very much for the response. I would imagine that Porsche would not recommend such a practice but what would the mechanical implications be of running at such a reduced temp? Also how would such a measurement be taken? Would there be such a considerable effect on the hydraulic forces at work within the transmission given that cooling fluid that cools the ATF is the same fluid cooling the engine and as such gets heated up rather quickly? I.e. there seems to be a small window of time where the valve would be closed (I didn't buy a boxster to drive around the north pole. :P) Also 15 degrees C is a rather large difference (60 degrees F.) I find that number hard to believe. Did you mean 15 degrees F? That would make a little more sense if speaking in terms of the range of temperatures (i.e. the mode in statistical terms of temperature readings.) Like I was saying the average operating temperatures would not seem to be hardly impacted at all.) I am going to replace the part since the local dealer happened to have one in on hand and I'm $60 too impatient to wait for the same part from the OEM supplier off Pelican. It's $80 at the dealer $20 online.
  9. carlosvquezada
    Would there be any reason why it would be a bad idea to bypass this valve altogether, letting coolant run constantly through the heat exchanger? I can get the part from Pelican for less than $20 but its a nightmare to try to get to it.
  10. carlosvquezada
    I don't see any way you could get to this part from the top engine access. Am I missing something or can you offer any advice from your experience? Thank you.
  11. carlosvquezada
    Here's some pics and video of the problem. Any advice?
  12. carlosvquezada
    I can clearly see water leaking from what I believe is the coolant shutoff valve, i.e. the valve on the driver's side of the tiptronic transmission that has a lever that i believe controls coolant flow to the transmission. Does anyone know the best way to go about removing and replacing this part? also if anyone has the part number that would be greatly appreciated. 1998 Tiptronic, recently replaced 2.5L with 2.7L after IMS fail, recently rebuilt transmission (damaged torque converter)
  13. carlosvquezada
    I hope you don't mind me jumping onto this thread, but I have a related issue and need a little help. I have noticed a steadily rising running temperature for about a month and finally last night I got a nice steam bath from the back of the car and all my coolant dissipated. I can see water leaking near where I am guessing the cooling system enters the tranny. (tiptronic btw) Any ideas what may have caused this or if it might be symptomatic of other issues besides just age and the car being driven like a Porsche? About 14,000 miles ago I had the tranny rebuilt (heavily damaged torque converter) and replaced a 2.5L with 2.7L after IMS failure. Pedro Hi-Flow intake, and Crios exhaust mod. I attached a picture of where it looks like the water is coming from. Any advice as to getting to that hose would be appreciated as well. (i.e. how difficult is it too remove that lever that's sitting in front of it? looks like a B) I'm recently unemployed so I have the time to diy and not the money to take it to a shop. As such your comments are very much appreciated. Thanks
  14. carlosvquezada
    Engine is toast. :( Any advice for where to get a new one?
  15. carlosvquezada
    There is 8.8liters of capacity under normal conditions, but if there is an access to a location that should not have oil in it -- than you could be filling it as well. Check your coolant -- is there oil in there? It could be the IMS as folks have mentioned -- and it might not be completely gone yet. so you might be able to save it. It could also be a timing chain loose slapping against something as it looses tention -- think of a loose bicycle chain slapping against its housing. Unfortunately there are many possibilities. The two interesting points is that the engine shut down and you were able to re-start it and drive it. I would find a good indie and have them check on it . where r u located? mike The car broke down in Costa Mesa, CA. I am having it towed over to Der Vagenmeister on 16th street at the moment. One thing I did not mention in my original post was that at no point did the Thermometer ever indicate the car was overheating. Will it be necessary to drop and disassemble the motor in order to determine if there is in deed a problem with the IMS or timing chain? If so would it be prudent to go ahead and have these parts replaced while the engine is out? Thanks for the reply.
  16. carlosvquezada
    I took my 1998 986 2.5L Tiptronic (approx. 135k miles) to have the oil changed Friday night. The mechanic poured in the the two 5 liter bottles of Mobil 1 5w40, I had to brought in myself and told me it looked like I needed to add a little more oil to the car. I added a quart the next day and the dip stick showed that the oil level was within range. Two questions for everyone: 1.) Why would the engine be low on oil after pouring in ten liters, shouldn't the car only require 8.8L when changing oil? ***2.) Why does my CAR NOW SOUND LIKE IT HAS ROCKS IN THE ENGINE? The noise did not start happening until Saturday night. The car had been driving perfectly, I was in park with the engine idling waiting for my gf to get her things together when all of a sudden the car began making this horrible noise and then shut off. I was able to start the car on Sunday morning, drive to the parts store to put in another quart of oil but then the noise was became so bad, I decided it was better not to drive any further. When I last checked the dipstick the oil level was even with the the top indicator marker. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what in the heck happened? I just had my transmission rebuilt for $3K, sounds like I am going to need a new engine now. :( Catalytic converter? Torn/Frayed belt?
  17. carlosvquezada
    Your lights are repairable and easy to fix but will take about an hour of labor. You can either take them to a reputable detailing shop that performs headlight restoration or you can go to Wal-Mart and buy a kit for about $20.00. I have used them repeatedly with great success. DO NOT use the machine pads for the very reasons you wrote this. It takes a skilled hand to prevent heat from building up on the disks causing the swirl marks you have. The kit from Wal-Mart will be done entirely by hand and will take you about 30 minutes a light if you follow the directions carefully. Heres the link Headlight Restoration Good luck, GW B) While you're at WalMart and before you invest $20 and an hour of your time, you should check their Auto Service center in the back. The WalMart in Westminster, CA I know they will do the headlight restoration for you for $38.00. I went DIY, spent longer than an hour working on it and the job still didn't come out perfect. For $18 extra, if I could do it again, I'd just have them do it. What I'd like to know is if anyone has tried baking their headlights to open them up. I know people have to do this to do aftermarket H.I.D. installations. My lenses (next to the bulb) are burned inside and I'd like to try to clean them up.
  18. carlosvquezada
    F.Y.I. - I wanted to let everyone know that two months since I first posted on this topic, I ended up blowing out the torque converter in my tranny I will now be having my transmission rebuilt. I don't know what to suggest, since looking inside a transmission is not cheap, but thought it might be helpful for others to know. I would be curious to hear any updates from others who were having similiar problems. Btw, KBL Transmissions in Midway City, CA quoted me a rebuild with a 1 year/12,000 miles warranty for $2,700.
  19. carlosvquezada
    Yesterday, my car smoked a little when I started it, then as I drove off I noticed the car did not want to shift manually (i.e. using the thumb shifters.) I parked the car in front of Autozone and noticed more smoke appear after the engine was shut off and reddish brown fluid begin to accumulate underneath the car. The engine did not overheat and given the problems with the transmission I would assume that the smoke and red liquid was transmission fluid leaking/burning. I've noticed a gradual decrease in the performance of the transmission since I bought the car used about four months ago. Does anyone have any ideas as to whether this is symptonmatic of a transmission needing to be replaced or maybe just the gasket blowing? Should I try a refill and gasket replacement first before I assume the transmission is shot? Or would that just be a waste of time/money? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. Anyone know any good indy Porsche shops that can rebuild a Transmission in Southern California? Thanks 1998 Boxster 2.1L Tiptronic 137k
  20. carlosvquezada
    I'd make the trip up to NorCal to join you guys. Let me know if you set a date. Thanks
  21. carlosvquezada
    As I've mentioned in other posts readapting the trasnmission ECU alone seems to help. How would one go about verifying the operation of the engine throttle position sensor? Also, I've seen instructions (from Pedro's Garage I believe) for cleaning the throttle body. Do you think doing this might help the ECU adapt better and thus alleviate these shifting problems?
  22. carlosvquezada
    My transmission does the same thing between 2nd & 3rd. I have noticed this does not seem to happen when I drive the car harder. I.e. when my foot is heavy and the shifting program takes my RPM's up higher before changing gears the problem seems to go away. Like someone said earlier it feels almost as if you were driving a manual transmission and shifted to too high a gear for your speed. Further, when I am finger shifting (and thus usually taking the car to higher RPM's) I don't notice the problem either. One thing I did notice (and was wondering if anyone had as well) was that when the transmission shifts from 2nd to 3rd gear the car seems to throttle up without me pressing down any harder on the pedal. As the transmission shifts from 2nd to 3rd, the RPM's will go up about 500-1000 RPM. 1998 Boxster 2.5 Tiptronic US 1978 Catalina 22
  23. carlosvquezada
    I just had to make some adjustments to my top. I bought the car used (98 986) and it looks like someone had messed with the top before, but the way they were when I saw them was in front of the rounded brass guides. From my understanding of the mechanics the cables themselves dont require any leverage that might be provided by wrapping them around the brass "guide". The motor simply rotates a square "gear" (that runs inside the length of the cable) that turns the motor in the transmission. I.e. the cables go in front.
  24. carlosvquezada
    Is there really no way to disassemble the headlight? I keep finding references to a process that involves baking the light assembly to unglue it, but I can not find a complete description of the process. 1998
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