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viper501

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Everything posted by viper501

  1. viper501
    As a follow-up to my earlier post, I have learned that the alternator is kaput. I'm not terribly disappointed considering the mileage. I also sort of suspect that the timing of the alternator's failure was remarkably close to when I cleaned the engine with a spray on, rinse off engine cleaner .... hmmm? Not to worry. Indie says 625 to install new aftermarket alternator, including parts and labor. Gonna have them put on my new stainless steel headers while they've got the car. :D
  2. viper501
    It is really an easy thing to do yourself. It is nice to have a lift for access but as you've shown, you don't have to have one. Another nice tool to have is an air ratchet so you can tighten the clamps down with minimal effort in the confined space. What is scary is that I've read some dealers have said that the engine has to be dropped to do the bellows! Sadly, I'm sure that the mechanic tells them that then just uses a special plier designed for those clamps and has it done in 20 minutes.
  3. viper501
    might want to download the parts list from Porsche's technical web site. At the very end it has the option codes. Might be tedious though. I can email it to you if you can't find it online.
  4. viper501
    Where are you shifting at RPM wise and under what load? Might want to make sure that you're shifting high enough in the RPM range and not actually lugging the engine by shifting into 3d too soon.
  5. viper501
    121,000 miles so far. No major problems. Had to replace a water pump (something that is very common in the BMW community) and have it in the shop right now for what is likely a problem with the A/C compressor or clutch. Given the miles and the rather spirited driving, I'm fairly pleased. Most of these cars aren't over 100k miles because more of them are garage queens than ///M3's.
  6. viper501
    Please let the paranoia begin ... :D I hate how I seem to notice *all* of the noises and wish that I could go back to being blissfully ignorant. I've got 120k+ miles on mine and don't notice that sound or any lugging. Are you sure that you aren't lugging the engine by not giving her enough gas and clutch slip at start? Is this problem occuring in all gears or just in First? I think we need more information to offer more potential causes.
  7. viper501
    Pop the rear hatch. On the side of the engine bay by the light itself there are one or two 10mm bolts that are on the sheetmetal lip around the light housing. Pull the bolts and it should slide right out, IIRC.
  8. viper501
    I'm actually on the Right coast but I do have the X74. I installed it to replace my US M030 suspension. I have been very very happy with it. In my opinion, it is substantially similar to a GT3 ride, or at least my neighbors '04. It has made a world of difference in handling without being too incredibly jarring. Be aware that it is very firm and does not really like rough roads but on a decent piece of asphalt, it really makes my '99 C2 handle fantastically. You'll also have to be careful going into and out of steep driveways. The X74 drops the car about 40mm from the stock US ride height (IIRC). Depending on your bumper and driving, you could have some 'issues'. I have scraped my Aero I bumper more than a few times but because it is flexible urethane I've just got some scratches underneath and not really visible, except to the roadkill. :D
  9. viper501
    You bring up a good point. The LED output is far superior to the stock incadescent bulbs.
  10. viper501
    Be sure you also get the friction modifier in the little tube. Cannot for the life of me remember what is was specifically called but I believe it was for LSD apps. Let us know what you get with it.
  11. viper501
    Ouch! A grand for the water pump? I think for that kind of money I'd be doing it myself. It is not that difficult an operation. I only had it done 'cause I didn't have time to due to my workload at that time.
  12. viper501
    Had to have mine replaced under similar circumstances. I think mine, installed, was about 450. Might want to look at the hoses while they are in there.
  13. viper501
    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Porsche-996...1QQcmdZViewItem Might be worth buying ...
  14. viper501
    John, Thanks again for the updates. Will be keeping an eye on this as it develops.
  15. viper501
    Loren, I'd like to have that part number, assuming it is sold separate from the kit.
  16. viper501
    I bought my 996 used so I don't know if it was supposed to come with some sort of grill on the rear spoiler but mine does not have it. I agree that it looks a bit unfinished but haven't noticed any debris getting into the engine bay from that direction.
  17. viper501
    I doubt that you need a cleaning agent. With mine I just drained the transaxle thoroughly and refilled with the BG stuff.
  18. viper501
    I've got a smoked one from Carnewal on my black coupe. I'll try and post a picture of it in a bit. O.K. here is a crappy camera phone picture on my filthy car. :censored:
  19. viper501
    I'll 2d that.
  20. viper501
    Even patched and plugged properly, I'd still be a tad nervous about 150 for sustained periods of time. The risk/utility equation just doesn't work when you're talking about a 300 dollar tire or a $x0,000 car.
  21. viper501
    I second and third that. I just knew that I was going to have to have the tranny or the syncros replaced until I did the BG fluid swap. It is an easy diy with a set of jackstands and a pump or some long tubing, a funnel, and a friend. I know we stuck one of the BG additives/friction modifiers in too, just in case. I think it was their product for LSD's but can't totally remember. What I do know is that two years later, I don't have the 2d gear pop problem anymore. :)
  22. viper501
    my 99 c2's a pillar trim is just clipped in. IIRC, you have to pop out 3 or 4 clips then flex the rearmost part from under the b-pillar trip. Then the whole thing should come out. I'm going by memory though and it has been a few months since I've messed with it.
  23. viper501
    Remove the idle control valve from the left side of the throttlebody and clean it real well with carb cleaner. Make sure window pivots smoothly. Just did this with my 99 996C2 and it worked well in stabilizing the idle. As explanation the IAC valve is on the left side of the throttle body as you are facing the rear of the car. On my car, and probably on all of the non E-gas cars, it is held on my two bolts. Disconnect the plug and unbolt it. Be sure to hose out the ports that flow air from one side of the throttle plate into the valve and then out to the other side of the throttle plate. Also rinse the IAC valve thoroughly with MAF cleaner. Let everything dry and reassemble. Be careful when removing the IAC to keep the small gasket between the IAC and the throttle body. I reused mine with no apparent problems. I would also check and make sure that there are no unmeasured air leaks, i.e. that the oil/air separator bellows is not cracked, that the oil fill cap is on tightly, that there aren't any other vacuum leaks that could be throwing the MAF off. Also, are you pulling any codes? I know you don't have OBDII requirements but the ECU should still be storing codes. Might try having those pulled and see if they show anything.
  24. viper501
    If that is the case, I'll continue to use Mercedes' anti sieze on my plug threads. I've never before seen anyone suggest not using anti-seize and considering the dissimilar metals and potential corrosion point I'm reluctant to start now. I would agree that any lubricant will reduce the torque required, as one would expect.
  25. viper501
    So what is up with no anti-sieze?
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