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viper501

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Everything posted by viper501

  1. viper501
    Stoichiometric is about 14.5. So your A/F is 'safe' even if it isn't the best power output.
  2. viper501
    Crossovers are in the front trunk. The rear speakers do not have crossovers as they are really just there for fill effect. The head unit is only sending about 70% of the signal that is going to the front speakers so that they don't overpower the front and create an imaging issue. The amp, and the crossovers, are plugged into the factory wiring harness so there are no speaker wires to run. The fun part was figuring out which wires go where. There are a set for the doors, a set for the dash speakers, and a set for the rear speakers. Oh, and the colors of the wires change from the trunk to the speaker sites. Wiring from the head unit to the trunk is a one-way route. Plug into the back of the head unit and run forward through one of the factory grommets (which I had to enlarge. There are RCA cables that are probably small enough to limit the enlargement substantially).
  3. viper501
    Keep us posted on how this works out. I think I might be able to scrounge one out of an '02 if its doable.
  4. viper501
    +1
  5. viper501
    I'd bet that you could pilfer that whole assembly from an '01 and tap into the power to run the LED. Should be relatively uncomplicated. (I know, famous last words). Probably need to look at the parts diagrams and numbers to see what changes.
  6. viper501
    Sounds like the headlight switch, which have been known to fail over time.
  7. viper501
    rock, looks nice. Any close ups of the mesh? I like the headlight covers too. Where'd those come from? How have you liked 'em?
  8. viper501
    When it's all done, I'll recap here with the Porsche specific details. Here's a link to my worklog with all the Geeky computer info as well: http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=92248 Joe its looking great! It looks like I'm going to have another project ... :renntech:
  9. viper501
    I think its a great idea. They seem to be independent and have credentials that are satisfactory to Porsche. I'm more than happy to contribute toward an independent scientific report on the problem. A metallurgical problem is a manufacturing defect that is sure to be more than an isolated incident, a la porous block problems. Maybe this will spur Porsche into doing what BMW did with their Nikasil fiasco.
  10. viper501
    I think I'd be willing to kick in ten bucks to have that report done with the results available to the community at large. It would probably help substantially in pushing Porsche to back up the product, especially given the news that they supposedly have a $28k profit per car ...
  11. viper501
    DiscobayJoe - *PLEASE* take a lot of pics and do a d.i.y. Very interesting project!
  12. viper501
    The problem is in air pressure. That is what the ducts are in place to accomlish. Without proper sealing, the airflow is not adequately pressurized. I'd also strongly suggest, assuming it wasn't done when fitting the new bumper, that the radiators be separated from the A/C condensors and both cleaned with an air hose. You'll be shocked at what gets embedded in there, even between the two. As a solution, have you tried ordering the ducts from a turbo car and installing them?
  13. viper501
    alfic, glad we could help. Better than a battery tender, get it out and drive it! :)
  14. viper501
    My 99 C2 is a bare wire loop. Mine is underneath of the passenger side headlight toward the front bumper. Its also accessible on my aerokit by pushing the rubber portion of the radiator air guide up and squeezing a small hand up toward the light. I think the easiest thing to do though would be to use one of the charger things that plugs into the lighter socket, assuming you've got an electrical release and not a manual lever.
  15. viper501
    Reborn996, I'm not sure. I've never looked at that problem, yet. :) It is definitely worth looking at. It could also need the striker adjusted a little.
  16. viper501
    Any local electronics store should have the keys, or a similar one that will work. I borrowed a set from Tweeter but I think some stores sell them.
  17. viper501
    Be wary of disabling X band. Many newer police radar units are utilizing X band. It apparently allows the manufacturers to produce a much smaller antenna that is more easily mounted in front and rear facing configurations.
  18. viper501
    I love the V1 but have an old remote mount Escort SR1 in my 996. Its been very good, although finding a place to mount the receiver was a pain in the rear. The newer Escort remote mounts seem to have smaller receivers and probably a lot easier to install. Also, note that the remote mount Escorts are supposedly only sold through authorized installers as an installed unit. Mine was purchased from someone I know post lease return so I installed it myself in my 996. Its pretty good about low falses in town but you really need to know what you are listening for, and where.
  19. viper501
    No problem. Just let me know if you need some more 'professional' assistance.
  20. viper501
    Have you been able to remove the original light? There is a small "plug" that must be removed from one end of the old light. It slides out like a key, revealing a small slot in the old light. Use a small flat head screwdriver to turn the slot ( don't remember if left or right but don't force it. Should go easy) This unlocks the old light and allows it to be pivoted out. Unplug the old light and plug the new one in. It is installed in the opposite manner ( i.e. slip new light in and turn the slotted piece to lock it in place. Then insert the plug. If you have done this and the light still doesn't work, you need to reverse the wires in the plug. IIRC, Gert has instructions for that procedure. Very easy to do with a small screwdriver.
  21. viper501
    I'd strongly suggest a consumer law attorney. The statement that Porsche doesn't goodwill cars that are out of warranty is ridiculous on its face. Why would they have to good will a car that was in warranty? Its in warranty for God's sake. If you have a problem finding one, shoot me a P.M. and I'll touch base with a colleague of mine in Jackson.
  22. viper501
    If it came from Gert at Carnewal.com it should just plug right in. If it is off of ebay, no telling. A picture of the connector might help. (Of course, I'm assuming that you know how to physically remove the old one ...)
  23. viper501
    Looks like this is going to be on my list of projects now. I've had an oil leak from the top of the engine for a while now, and its gotten worse. Now I've been throwing p1126, 1124, and 0150 codes with increasing frequency. Looking at the freeze data, it appears that its occuring during idle only. Anyone got access tips for a 99 C2? I'm thinking about going in through the left rear wheel well, after removing the wheel. Thoughts?
  24. viper501
    Not sure how much room you do or don't have up there with the engine in place. If you can get the wrench (spanner) on but can't move it laterally to loosen it you might be able to do it with a gearless ratchet like the one MAC tools sells. I also assume that you've got a proper shorty style open end / box end wrench rather than a full size?
  25. viper501
    Someone is doing an install where they port through the wall from the trunk into the cabin, mounting the sub in the trunk. Don't remember which company it was. There is also someone ( Aidesign? ) doing one that mounts on the front passenger floorboard. Nice looking piece and not terribly intrusive looking.
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