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Izzy

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Everything posted by Izzy

  1. Izzy
    Same question was posed in previous post about a month ago, I think the imaginative answer was "congratulations, you have a baby boy porsche!"
  2. Izzy
    Here is the owners manual to download and look at all you are missing. The answers are there, have fun. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?a...mp;showfile=601
  3. Izzy
    Scott, the way you describe the lip reads to me like you need new rotors. They are easy to replace too. I replaced mine at around 55K miles, they are on the verge of being out of spec. And the lip was not that big. Mintex redbox should drop in like a replacement exactly. for replacing http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...;hl=rotor++spec for thickness spec http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...;hl=rotor++wear
  4. Izzy
    For what is worth, I have had no problems swaping GHL mufflers between my 99 and my 03 C2's. Same brackets, same pipes, just bolt off and bolt on. Got it down to a 30 min job. Izzy
  5. Izzy
    You may also find them in Ebay sometimes, all done and ready for mounting. From memory, I thought they listed for about $200 with a return of yours. Not sure how they performed, but therewas someone in the Forum who got them if you do a search. The one benefit from most of the aftermarket mufflers is the lower weight (10-15 lbs) and lower back pressure (IMO). To some people the lower weight is important as they try to lighten the cars for running a quicker course. At 240 lbs I don't care that much, that is just a few meals. I tried Fabspeeds and GHL. Settled for GHL and bought them pre-enjoyed from a renntech member. Much better price than new! check this out, used, that come with tips too: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GHL-PORSCHE...1QQcmdZViewItem
  6. Izzy
    Try this http://www.whiteson.org/boxster/mods/drl/
  7. Izzy
    You guys in Charlotte, good to know. I am in Matthews, about 2 miles from Euroworks actually. I am going this weekend to Kershaw for the PCA weekend, driving number 40. Let me know if either of you are going, we can meet down there. Izzy
  8. Izzy
    19 mm socket size, is what I thought you where asking.
  9. Izzy
    You can install a harness bar, that attaches on the current seatbelt mounting points. The Brey-Krause Harness Mount is one I know works. There is one other mfg, can't remember the name now. The bar will make getting into the rear seat impossible if you have kids back there. Or at least hard for them to sit there.
  10. Izzy
    Found it, I think: http://www.pca.org/tech/tech_qa_question.a...0-EFC6B4339FFE} and this one: http://www.pca.org/tech/tech_qa_question.a...0-F7A7600E29DD} short version picked from the Porsche Club of America site, dated a year ago: "Ask your dealer to tell you what PCNA's latest official position on E85 is. It could be anything from "it is not approved" (very likely), or "if you use it you void your warranty" (possible), or it could be "it works fine" (extremely unlikely, and if they said so I would not necessarily believe them). Even if I knew their answer, a) it is important that you know where you stand with your warranty at your dealership, and B) Porsche's position on this issue is likely evolving over time. I doubt that E85 would wreck the fuel system, but it would probably slowly start to gum it up. Ethanol used to attack certain materials in the fuel systems, but E10 blending has been going on for years, and the changes needed to go that far have been made long ago. But the first thing you will notice with more ethanol in the blend is that you will be down on power and down on fuel mileage. There is less energy content per gallon in ethanol than in our familiar blends of gasoline. The ECU in your car will change the ignition timing and the fuel injection duration to retune for it, but if the percentage adjustment is too high, you will get a check engine light coming on, and the car won't run right, if at all. "
  11. Izzy
    yes, I think there was a write up last month on the Panorama magazine about it, depends on the % blend, but it is not good.
  12. Izzy
    For a 1999, you may have over 60K miles? You may be due for O2 sensors and MAF. I had the same exact codes on the same year, 62k miles. MAF and O2 sensors cleared it
  13. Izzy
    Stefan, What is your experience removing the bolts with the impact wrench? Compressor size, hose size, impact wrench info. Thanks Izzy
  14. Izzy
    Here is what I have so far. The Max Torque is what is claimed by the manufacturer: "Maximum torque is the number most often given by manufacturers, which is the instantaneous peak torque delivered if the anvil is locked into a perfectly solid object. Working torque is a more realistic number for continually driving a very stiff fastener" Most manufacturers do not tell you the working torque. So in order to remove a bolt from a 996 wheel torqued to 94 ftlbs, you need a minimum 550 ftlbs torque pneumatic. Ingersoll Rand may show the working torque on some of their product boxes, for example the 231G I got has 50-200 ftlbs. I think 100 is about right, as it will take the bolts off, but needed a 15 gallon compressor and a 3/8" air line. Forget the electric impact wrenches, I did not find any that would work, so selling my DeWalt "300 ftlbs" to anyone who wants it. One person in a PepBoys shop showed me how the Ingersoll Rand 231 remove the wheel bolts off a truck, after torquing past 100 ftlbs. His opinion was the compressor had enough capacity to keep the air flow and pressure high enough, and long enough, to create the torque needed. New compressor $149, Impact wrench $107, ability to take the wheels off like a pro - priceless. Of course, you can do it for nothing if you do it by hand...... said my wife.
  15. Izzy
    Another experiment, Had my 89 lb son stand on exactly 12 in on the breaker bar to lock the bolt. I meaured with a new torque wrench with an indicator and it was around 90 ft lbs. Neither impact wrench would remove the bolt. Used both wrenches to lock bolts, and used my son on the breaker bar to loosen the bolt, he didn't have to stand on the breaker bar completely to get the bolt loose. I am know confused :huh:
  16. Izzy
    Here is a dummy one. I think (or rather I know now) that my trusty Everlast torque wrench is off, by a lot. I guess Everlast don't quite, if you get my drift. Anyway, I got a Dewalt 18V impact driver rated max ouput of 300 ftlbs. Wanted to get the wheels off quicker for maintenance. But when I got it home, with a fresh battery, it would not budge any lug bolts. Went next for an pneumatic one, 350 ft lbs, same issue. Slowmo me then remembered taking off the bolts last time, using my 16 in breaker bar, I use most of my 240 lbs to get them off. Duh!! So my 94 ftlbs mark on my wrench HAS to be wrong. I replaced my bolts using the Dewalt impact wrench, then tested when I can get the wrench to click, and it was around 55 ftlbs. This is for the impact wrench rated to 300 ftlbs, brand new. Same for the pneumatic. So, my questions is, has anyone else have similar experience, and how bad have I been messing my wheel bolts? It just seems like with the impact wrenches, the bolts can be removed so much easier, I worry about them falling off. Thanks in advance. Izzy
  17. Izzy
    Hey Scott. If it is the one I am thinking about, I would not remove without having a replacement handy. I think it is a brass one that is closed with a special tool to make it tight and the shape you see is the slack taken off the ring. You can replace it a band clamp worse case. I have had mixed results of reusing those brass ones, and leaking. But to remove, a small srewdriver and pliers can do the trick.
  18. Izzy
    I would want to know the details of what the warranty covers. Maybe pretty comprehensive bumper to bumper. Is it Porsche dealer that is offering the warranty? If you plan on tracking the car, I would buy it. It is high, I think mine was closer to Loren's number for the Porsche certified extended warranty. But small things can add up in the car, a window motor here, a small leak there, radio acting up, $1000 can come pretty fast in these cars. Could make the warranty look like a good investment.
  19. Izzy
    Paul, All I do is get my car on 4 jack stands, about 14-15" high on the stands. That is all I need to manuever and get to the all the bits and pieces. You can see a partial picture in this link of the rear wheel off the ground, last pic on the set. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=6203 If you decide to do it, I found a new "easy" trick for the temperature sensor. I placed the sensor inside a 4" clear tygon hose, then inserted a standard 12 gauge home wire in the hose with the sensor. Bending the wire into a hook shape and insert into the fill hole. This way you can make sure the sensor is reading the temp from near the bottom of the pan, and it stays in position. Don't know why I didn't figure it out sooner..... I am thinking about a lift, a Bend Pak scissor lift, if I can convince my wife that I "need" it.......
  20. Izzy
    Tobias, Most people I have talked to have the same wear on their street tires, 1 front for every 2 rears. I think that is normal. My track tires wear more even on 1:1 ratio. But I do the same as you, rears replaced twice as often as fronts. I also mix brands front or back to test them out. But living in the US, I would never be going European speeds.
  21. Izzy
    Paul, Having a 996 Tiptronic, I think you are doing the right thing by changing the oil more frequently for track. If you keep a log of track miles and temperatures, would help too. I would change mine yearly (at least) with about 20 track days though the year, ranging from 100 mile days to 220 mile days. The fluid will turn black quickly with the heavy track use, cheap insurance IMO. Also keep in mind that when you drain and fill, you only get about 2/3's of the volume recycled every time. You can keep the filter for a few years, don't have to change it every time. Not an expensive part ($33), but adds a bit of labor to remove the pan and replace the gasket. clean the pan and magnets. With the right tools and fluid, you can do it yourself pretty easy too. It really is not hard, just have to pump the oil in the fill hole. I used a simple pump sprayer, dedicated to ATF, for $18 at Home Depot. Like the standard tranny, you know it is full when oil escapes from the fill hole. Izzy
  22. Izzy
    The sensors are not terribly expensive, but after replacing a few that cooked after a few track days I just "tiw-wrapped" them to the brake fluid line and out of the pads. I check the pads periodically, so no need to have the sensors go down to wire, so to speak. Just my opinion
  23. Izzy
    I have run different brands front and back with no problems, both on track and off. I may not be sensitive to the difference in handling or it really doesn't matter that much.
  24. Izzy
    Looks like they use the OEM mufflers and modify them. Probably remove some of the baffles. My first reaction is "ugly", but it is just a muffler. I would not be interested, rather would get Fabspeeds or Schnell or GHL or eve BillyBoats. They are made from scratch and not a rebuilt from original, and they weigh a good bit less, and are smaller. I would also be concerned with the welding process, without pickling and passivating the SS weld, you can end up with corrosion line and a hole later on. Again, just opinion.
  25. Izzy
    Sorry, have not heard about RSR. But the return policy is nice. And the HP gain, who knows? The sound and quicker throttle response is worth it to me. How much are they? Schnell run about 799, and Fabspeed 999. Ebay is a good place. If you end up going for fabspeed, shop around as some of the dealers can give you a better price than direct from Fabspeed. Do you have a website for RSR?
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