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Izzy

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Everything posted by Izzy

  1. Izzy
    Very cool. Thanks
  2. Izzy
    I do this for all my Track events, blows some people's mind out since they go to the dealer and are told "it is impossible". Then they watch me get a screw driver and pop them up in about 2 minutes. You first have to lower the rear seat backs, and remove the carpeted panel behind the rear seats - 2 phillips screws and done. You can also push down on the latch from the top with a screw driver, same result. But I would first follow the instructions above until you understand how the mechanism work and how else you could position the screwdriver. Also, don't have ANYONE looking down "to see how you do it" when you are releasing them, they will get hit on the nose when the bars pop up. Do it only with the top down, and don't operate the top with the bars up (ask me how I know...). One plus, with the bars up most organizations will recognize them as factory roll bars and allow you to run hillclimb events. Izzy
  3. Izzy
    I agree with Viper, upgrading pads for track days makes a good difference. On a brake happy track like CMP in Kershaw, SC, some intensive driving (25 mins on-25 mins off) and no fade with pagid oranges and superblue fluid. You really added 600 rwhp to a x1/9? Sorry to sound doubtful, but I recall them from High School being no more larger than my size 12 sandals. I imagine a jet engine with a lot of duct tape....... How you get there?
  4. Izzy
    Sent you a PM with attachment. See if that is what you are looking for?
  5. Izzy
    Not sure, I am off this weekend also, to CMP with NASA to drive-it-like-I-stole-it on the track. I sent Harvey an email to let me know when the next one is and there will be others. Let him know to add you to the DL. Strength in numbers....
  6. Izzy
    Skipp, since you are in Charlotte, you may want to check this out this weekend, there may be someone there who can help. It could be ABS, or something else. C4 or C2? Mileage? Wheel bearing change?: From: Harvey Yancey [mailto:Harvey.Yancey@microsoft.com] Sent: Thursday, July 13, 2006 2:59 PM To: Harvey Yancey Subject: Charlotte Area - Saturday Morning 'Gear Head' Get Together Hi All, It has been brought to my attention that there is interest in starting an 'informal' Saturday morning get together for us like-minded gear-heads. So ... if you want to join in we will be gathering this Saturday morning (15 July) starting approx. 7:00AM at: Caribou Coffee at Governor’s Square on Fairview Rd (near SouthPark Mall) 7804 Fairview Road Charlotte, NC 28226 (704) 367-0050 http://local.live.com/default.aspx?v=2&amp...2044893!119 Feel free to invite others with the same affliction ... Porsches are not required to join in ... all are welcome ... even those folks driving Italian cars ... ;) *** Disclaimer - this is NOT a PCA sanctioned Event *** Regards, Harvey
  7. Izzy
    There can be multiple root causes for the codes. The cleaning of the MAF will help clear the codes only if that was the root cause, "dirty wire". If the MAF is toasted, cleaning won't help at all. When you remove the MAF, look at it from the air flow perspective and you will see the wire, spray that with MAF or electronic cleaner. Let air dry and replace. For me, the codes where caused by the K&N filter. 9 months after I replaced the paper filter I got the code (potentially too much oil in KN), tried the MAF cleaning and it cleared the situation. Has been fine ever since. Cleaning it will cost you about $3.50 for the spray cleaner, so Iwould always do the cheap stuff first. The new MAF can run you $250 (for returned core) or more. But MAF's do go bad. My old Volvo 240 wouldn't go past 60K miles without a replacement. And that was easy driving, not Porsche driving.
  8. Izzy
    I could venture that since it has been getting worse over a few days, you might have lost a few quarts while driving to the point you got now. Only way to know is to refill it and see if works. Then find the leak. You can use a pressure filling device (pressure tank) or fluid transfer type of pump. At least remove that variable from the equation.
  9. Izzy
    David, silly question, but how much ATF you have? Just wonderin if you have lost fluid and got no pressure. Have you check fluid? May have a leak, and to check fluid you got to get the car up on jacks, get the engine running and remove the fill plug on the bottom of the car. Check out the DIY for ATF fluid change for some pics
  10. Izzy
    Only if you live in NJ you can do that. Nah, just kidding, lovely state, I lived once in Flemington. No, it is very corrosive, take it to a recycling center for your county on the Island. As I remember in NJ, the town had a recycling center with large safe containers labeled for homeowners to dispose of motor oils and " other" corrosive liquids. Not sure what county you are in, but thougth Massapequa had one last time I was there.....
  11. Izzy
    Oggie, I would recommend investing in a Motive power bleeder and waste bottle. Should run you about $45-$50. Then you can flush the brake fluid. There a few posts here on how to do it. I also switch colors between blue and gold, as a pokayoke on the flush. The Motive container is simply filled with the brake fluid, then screwed onto the expansion tank, and pressurized. Then you can go through the fluid flushing one wheel at a time and be certain no air in the system and a good flush too.
  12. Izzy
    William, do a search by "convertible", there are a few checks that are simple like fuses, etc. Also, the handbrake ligth on when the brake is pulled? There is a small swith there that can get rusty and not make contact. Finally, the DIY has instructions for adding hydraulic fluid. Common issue, also for a 99 (like mine).
  13. Izzy
    Do a search for "convertible", you will find a lot of information. To me it sounds like you are short on hydraulic fluid. Look at the DIY, pretty easy to do if you like to do a car work.
  14. Izzy
    For a 99 to be in store 6 years, it was in store prettymuch since new with missing parts? I would want to understand how it got to that point of repair so quickly, accident, theft, Customs recovery, etc. Sometimes if something sounds too good to be true, it is. If you are very good at working on cars and can deal with surprises, can make a good project car. But for another $7-9K should find a good condition car without issues. The low miles engine is good, assuming it is not damaged. Keep in mind that not all damage is reported......Only a small percentage of Katrina flooded cars got into the DOT system as flood damaged, for example.
  15. Izzy
    Richard, that is pretty good, wonder what the record is for highest miles in a 996 engine. I am planning on running mine until its last breath. Skipp, just noticed you are in Charlotte, me too. I use 0-40 Mobil 1 in winter, but change to Syntec 5-50 for summer (Walmart carries it). I asked the mechanics at Hendricks and they agreed, use heavier for summer. I changed in late April, will run the same until October. Heavier oil in our 90 degree days may reduce seepage. Just a thought.
  16. Izzy
    There is a tip somewhere in the PSE install DIY about soaking the bolts with Liquid Wrench or WD40 before applying the mechanical wrench. About 30 mins of this application and the clamp bolts came off pretty easy. It would help if you had an 11 mm box end wrench (ratchet even better) to remove the bolts, then the tips come off fairly easily. You may need a large flat screw driver to open the clamp some. Otherwise that is all you need. It also helps to raise the rear of the car, for me about 6 inches is enough to get in there. If all you want to do is polish the tips, though, I would leave them in place and use a #0000 steel wool, with a good automotive steel or chrome polish. Pour the polish onto the wool and start rubbing it into the tips. The wool will remove the crap and work in the polish. I also do this 3-4 times a year. It makes a world of difference, they look like new. Izzy
  17. Izzy
    I would have it checked for leaks, IMO. But use the dipstick before adding any oil, and make sure the car is in a level spot. A small incline can throw it off. I have a 99 with 57K miles, track it about 12 times a year, and had never added more than 1/2 quart in the entire year. Always bring an extra bottle for track days, but I never have had to use it.
  18. Izzy
    Congrats, sounds like a great machine, I am biased to cabrios, living in the Southern US. The oil level, if the car is not on a level surface, the dash will show the wrong level. Do not add oil, measure only on a level surface, and use the dipstick as the real measurement. The dash I would consider secondary.
  19. Izzy
    How about here? http://www.renntech.org/forums/files/category/6-porsche-owners-manuals/
  20. Izzy
    Yeah, a lot of extra work, totally exhausting sweat breaking work to open engine lid, remove the dipstick, and insert the flex tube in and draw. But then again with the syringe, I don't have to get the ramps under the wheels, drive the rear of the car up, get on the garage floor under the car, get the torque wrench out and the filter wrench out, remove the canister, remove oil, retorque the canister, drive off the ramps, replace the ramps.
  21. Izzy
    Lee, sent you a PM with some help. Let me know if that is it. Izzy
  22. Izzy
    The 60 cc I got is from an industrial supply store, about $9. You can also get them in a vet supply store. The plastic soft tube from Home Depot. Take the plastic tube and insert it in the dipstick tube until it bottoms out. Suck the oil, dump it into a safe container, repeat. Measure the oil lever with the dipstick every 2 pulls or so. The syringe comes in very handy when removing brake fluid from the reservoir, or removing the crankcase oil for a Tiptronic. Don't borrow your wife's turkey baster, can be dangerous....
  23. Izzy
    I would NEVER put too much oil in, but my evil twin has when I wasn't looking. My evil twin was able to remove oil with a 60cc plastic syringe and a long (about 3 ft) 1/8" clear tube attached to it. It goes down into the dipstick tube. A couple of pulls and voila', oil level back between the two marks. In case you ever need to do it......
  24. Izzy
    Basically, yeah, mostly grin-effect, car-sound-boy-thing IMO. Cheap thrills. The only thread you could hang on to is, K&N's claim of capturing better the dirt particles. On the airbox, same thing, by itself mostly sound. If you want to get more air faster in the engine, mufflers are more important as the backpressure will restrict anything anyway. The only other consideration is, with airbox less restricted and more open, the pressure in the airbox for the same volume of air would be lower. The throttle body will restrict it, but the reduction of area for a given pressure and volume result in increase velocity. With that comes the potential for a bit more air getting in to the chamber, and lower temp as air will pass through faster, leaving less heat transfer time from the engine to the air mass. I won't even try to describe that nightmare of a second order differential equation. Very small gains in HP (K&N may claim some crazy number) if at all. But pretty much useless without higher flow mufflers. One point of interest for us engineering geeks, what is the size of the intake throat before the airbox (area) compared with the throttle body diameter (area)? I will have to measure and calculate when I get home. Being a compressible fluid, air will behave different than liquid, so we have to adjust the flow equations (Darcy's) for other factors, and a "smoother" aftermarket hose will have a lower loss coefficient than the stock.
  25. Izzy
    Can you take a picture of the leak? Leaks can travel from many locations, and you may be seeing where it travelled to, not always where it started from. Can you describe the oil, color, smell, taste (just kidding). ATF tends to be red and has a "sweet" kind of strong smell. Izzy
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