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Harness

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Everything posted by Harness

  1. Thanks, it was indeed there, but it needed a larger alan wrench than a standard set comes with... I went to a local auto parts store and they didn't carry such a thing, so I did the same as you... drilled some holes and used a $4 siphon pump to get most of it. I figured everything was soaked in coolant anyway so what harm would a little more do : )
  2. I'm mid-coolant pipe upgrade, and after getting all the way down to the coolant pipes I can't find the coolant drain plug under the car. I have an 04 Cayenne S. Anyone know where it is at specifically?
  3. Just throwing my two cents in... My Brake Workshop light came on about four weeks ago, and I replaced the pads myself with the Hawk CPS pads after about a week and a half. This was the first time I had ever attempted replacing brake pads and it was WAY easier than I expected it to be (with the exception of removing that pin, I wailed on that thing forever before it finally budged). I absolutely hated the Porsche OEM pads throwing hard to remove black dust all over my gorgeous 20's, so I went with Hawk this time. My wheels have stayed nice and clean for two weeks now and I really have no complaints at all about them. They brake just as well, I haven't noticed any increase in noise, and everything fit great. They were a lot cheaper than the OEM ones, and doing the job myself it only cost about $25 for the sensors and $125 for the pads... much, much better than what I paid last time.
  4. I have an 04 S, where exactly would I get a durametric and is there anything else I need to use one?
  5. This happened to me just two months ago and I was able to order just the trim. It's actually very easy to replace. To get the old trim off, I used a metal paint scraper with a small blade, and then used the same scraper to get off as much residual tape as a could. Removing the old trim ruins it. Be very careful so that the blade doesn't slip and scratch your door. I then got some 3M double sided automotive tape (part number 06384) at O'Reaily auto pats and applied two strips of it (side by side) to the back of the new trim and placed it on the car. The way the black plastic on the door is molded, it's easy to play it right, in fact it would be pretty hard to screw it up... it fits like a glove (do a dry run without tape first and you'll see what I mean). The trim piece was just about $50 at Parktown Porsche in St. Louis. NOTE: I did not realize mine was coming loose, and the clearance against the front door is really, really narrow. When the piece came loose enough, it caught on the front door scratching it's trim piece too. So, if you notice it loose at the end of it, it's best to just go ahead and replace it.
  6. Just thought I'd repost and see if anyone had any thoughts now that we're a year later... i know, obscure problem to have! : )
  7. That's an amazing setup. You don't by chance have the model #'s of what you installed do you? I've wanted to do something like this but thought I would lose the steering controls (which would bug me).
  8. The lights underneath my side mirrors are not lighting up at all. I changed the light bulbs and that didn't help. I asked the dealer to look at it and they confirmed that no power is getting to those lights (although the power mirror adjustment still works fine). They said they could trace the power cables and find where the brake is, but that would take a lot of time and it's not worth the money to have them do it. Does anyone by chance know the approximate location of where those powerlines go, or where the fuse is for those? I looked in the manual and didn't find a clear indicator of which fuse controls those little lights. Any help would be much appreciated.
  9. It's a nearly $20,000 option and raises power to 540 HP, which is just hellaciously insane for an SUV. Not knowing anything else about the car, I would say it's a rare option and you'll have a ton of fun ; )
  10. I have a 2004 Cayenne S with 99,000 miles on it. I bought it about three years ago with 28,000 miles on it. While I've put a lot of miles on it in three years, I don't drive nearly as much as I used to as I'm at a new job that doesn't require as much driving. I'm anticipating putting 18,000 miles per year on my Cayenne going forward. I love my Cayenne a lot. I've got a laundry list of upgrades I've done to it and it has a great color combination (Blue Metalic over duo-tone gray leather interior). However, I have some concern about logevity. I am close to a point where I could sell it for just a little less than I owe on it. If I did that, I would just turn around and buy another Cayenne... probably a 2006 S which of course will require that I pay sales tax and other costs will increase with a newer, more valuable model. That woud also just stretch out the time until I own my car outright. So, I would like to know if there are any high-mileage Cayenne owners out there that think a Cayenne like mine would be worth owning for another 3-4 years... like all the way up 175,000 miles. As far as I know, the engine and transmission are in good shape (no leaks either)... and I have already replaced the drive shaft and water pump which seem to affect everyone. Any other problems it has are minor and related to the electrical system (oddities with the PCM and such). I do a lot of my own maintenance/repair so my ownership costs aren't too bad. So, I'm pretty confident in the car overall, but I really have no idea if the engine/transmission in a Cayenne S can be trusted up to 175,000 miles... those are the two things that I worry about. Anything else can be fixed rather inexpensively by myself or my neighborhood mechanic. I live in Missouri if that affects anyones opinion... we have all four seasons in all their glory and a pretty high humidity environment durning the summer months. Any advice/thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
  11. I took mine to the dealer today, $100 later I have a broken latch. The technician said that is the only way to get in to them. I'm assuming he put some thin piece of metal into the release mechanism and then hit it with a hammer (the button you push to open it has just enough space above it to fit a putty knife or a credit card). That basically punched out the part that holds it in place, leave the part on the lid itself intact. I'm going to purchase some suitable magnets from the hardware store so that the lid stays closed when it's down. They told me you can't just buy that mechanism, you have to replace the whole thing and it would be $600+.
  12. I installed the Cat Bypass tubes about a month or two ago on my 04 CS. I definitely get better gas milage and I love the new sound. For me, it was worth it. The factory bolts holding on the original cats were so rusted they were impossible to remove by converntional means. After several aborted self attempts at install, I asked a local tuning shop to do it.... best $150 I ever spent. I really don't know if they make the car faster, but they sure sound a lot better and I'm getting about .8/mpg better than I was before... the sound alone was worth it to me. I did a lot of research on the air filters, and I'm inclined to agree with the argument that a "performance" air filter will likely do more harm than good as they allow more particulate matter into your engine than a stock filter. As mine already has 98,000 miles, I really don't want to risk anything. At best, a performance air filter will give a very moderate gain that would be imperceptible on day to day driving. As to race cars that use them, they have their engine rebuilt after almost every race and in that arena every 1/100th of a second is important... not so much running the kids around.
  13. Same thing happened to me. You want a 12 Point Metric Internal Wrench Set, it can be purchased from any good auto parts store. After you unscrew the bolt, you can put the seat back normally. At that point, throw the belt over the back seat into the cargo area, and then pull it forward again to bolt it back in. For some reason, this frees up the mechanism and the belt will work normally (until you decide to put the seat down again). Just make sure you screw the belt in tighltly again if the belt will be in use. Mine is almost never used so I left it as is. I was told by an import mechanic that the only way to repair permanantly is to replace the belt unit which requires disassembling the rear seat. So, in leiu of that, I keep a ratchet and that metric set in the storage compartment under the passenger seat in case I ever need them.
  14. I'm having the same issue with the top compartment of the center console. Can anyone provide any detail on how to get it open? Pressing on the release button doesn't work anymore.
  15. I just had my Cat Bypass pipes installed on my 2004 Cayenne S, and I have to say it was very worthwhile. It sounds like a Porsche now (wish I had done this three years ago when I got it). I can confirm that the throttle response is much improved as a result. Tonight, I plan on doiing some decent performance tests... I did them before the upgrade and it'll be interesting to compare. Personally, I love them and think it was worth the expense based on sound/throttle response alone. For those Do-it-Yourselfers, the original bolts on my cats (next to the engine, the ones on the sleve were fine) had to broken. Basically, we just tighted the nuts until they broke. That was the only way to get them off after 94,000 miles of rust.
  16. I agree, I would love a set but $600+ for a couple of tubes seemed a bit excessive.
  17. Nope, they sure didn't. Once it went out of CPO warranty I started looking at it. I probably could have argued with them to still cover it, but the dealership is WAY out of my way and dealing with a loaner car kind of sucks as well. I just got tired of them so I decided to troubleshoot it myself. I'd get frustrated and just leave it alone for a month and then come back to it when I had another idea of what to do. I should point out that each time I took it in to the dealership it wasn't just for the cornering light... I was always getting 3-5 little things fixed as well or an oil change. So I'm sure they were just changing the bulb, testing it without driving it and calling it good. I did see the same behavior as well when hitting a bump, that would kind of kick it into erroring out even if I thought I had everything seated properly.
  18. I've posted several things on here regarding the perpetual "Check Left Cornering Light" error on my 2004 Cayenne S. I have now, after hours and hours of troubleshooting, figured it out... better yet, I think I know why it has been such a perpetual, intermitent issue even though the dealer had seen it three times (under warranty at the time). Each time, and the first two times I tried it, the light bulb was replaced, sometimes with success, sometimes not. It might work for a few trips, but then would start erroring again... back to the dealer (or my garage), replace the bulb, pray for success and so on. I want to note that I changed out the wiring harness for the headlight assembly (for both left and right) and that did not make the issue go away. The reason I did that was because one of the clips was broken on each side (presumably by the dealer when they were working on it, but hey, why tell the customer if you broke something they can't see). On the bright side it ruled out the wiring harness being the issue and satisfied my anal rententive nature to not have anything broken (seen or unseen). The second thing I noticed was that my side/parking/running lights (seems they have a lot of names, it's the W5W bulb directly under the headlight) were both burnt out on each side. The car wasn't yelping about that though, but since they share a wire with the cornering lights I thought that might very well be relevant. It sort of is in a way... the car determines if the there is a problem with a light bulb by measuring the OHMs (which I read elsewhere on this forum), it seems to be very sensitive to that and will declare the bulb dead at the touch of an issue. I replaced the bulbs, but the left cornering light issue was still present. Now, for the real solution... which, kind of stupidly, all has to do with putting the headlight assembly back in place. When replacing the assembly (and I know this seems obvious but the dealer was screwing this up too), you have to REALLY get it put back in place. On the bottom of the assembly, you'll see a little hook molded there right in the center where the metal bar is supposed to hook into. However, it is possible (and apparantly likely) to replace the assembly, turn the little lever and assume everything is back in place... I did at least a dozen times while screwing with this. You can even tug on the assembly a bit and it all feels snug... only it's not. It takes a lot of faith, but what you have to do is push down and in on the assembly with a little bit of force (mostly just to hold it in place... don't risk breaking the clear plastic). At the same time, you have to turn the tool towards "lock" with a strong degree of force... a lot more than you will probably be comfortable with. Once you do that, you'll hear a very disheartening "snap" and at that point everything is back in place as it should be. As an FYI, when removing the headlight you hear the same snap. If you get a reallly bright flashlight, you can actually peer underneath the headlight assembly and see all of this take place... there is about a 1/8" gap there if everything is aligned right. I know this may seem brilliantly obvious to a lot of people out there, but since I never ran across the solution anywhere on the 'net I figured I would post it. Now error code free, John
  19. Wow! You're not kidding... I used pretty much every ounce of strength I had (well, way more than I would have thought necessary) to get that thing out. I actually had to apply significant counterforce to the back of the headlight. It did come out ok though and went back just fine. Thanks for the tip!
  20. I'm trying to figure out how to remove the side lights (parking lights/running lights...the ones under the actual headlight beam) in a 955. I can remove the headlight assembly, pull the cover off, and find the black plastic tab for the light, but it just turns round and round and never pulls out. The manual is completely unhelpful, simply stating to pull it out... it just doesn't seem to want to come out. I've tried the right and left headlight with no luck. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks!
  21. Well, I replaced the wiring harness successfully (thanks for the tip!) but I still get the "Check Left Cornering Light" warning. I did a continuity test on all of the wiring involved with that bulb, and that all came back clean. Anyone have any other suggestions?
  22. Just tested them and it seems to be no at both locations on both continuity and power. So, I guess it's a trip to the dealer to enable them. : (
  23. Thanks guys! I was able to pop the mirrors off as you instructed (a lot easier than I imagined) and replace the bulbs (old ones didn't look burned out). However, they still don't light up. The mirrors move as they should, so I know power is going to them, but the lights never light up. I tested every fuse using a multimeter, so that's not it either. If anyone has any ideas, I'd love to hear them... in the meantime I'll be hunting around for a solution.
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