mikebonn

Well, I removed the engine and disassembled it piece-by-piece to find the classic d-chunk crack in the #2 cylinder wall. I have been closely following logray's engine rebuild and I plan to follow a similar route as him with LN Engineering's Nickies. I'll also be upgrading the IMS bearing along with most of the other wear parts in the engine. I'm almost glad I had this failure, because if this rebuild goes as well as logray's, I'll wind up with a much-improved, more powerful, more reliable engine for a fraction of what it would have cost to scrap the car and try to find anything equivalent. It has been a great project thus far and I am looking forward to the finished product.

I got a great deal on a set of Hancooks from Tirerack.com a few years ago ($85 fronts, $140 rears) for my 2000 C2. I have had similar issues - they were VERY noisy from day one, especially compared to the Continentals they replaced, and after about 12K miles, I have belts visible on the inner part of the rear tires. Depends on you you look at it. A new set of Continentals were 3x the cost and I don't think would have lasted 3x the miles. I hate the road noise, so I am biting the bullet and switching back to the Continentals...other suggestions welcomed.

Well, after going through the stages of grief, I have finally accepted that I likely have a cracked cylinder head. Thanks for the great links, this provided me with the inspiration to try this repair this myself as a winter project, and I am actually pretty excited about it. Since I am going to be pulling the engine from the car, what else makes sense to replace on a 91k mile car? I was thinking that replacing the clutch and water pump are no brainers, but what other things make sense to replace while I have the engine out?

xmac - thanks for the help! The coil packs on that bank were fine, so I removed all three plugs as you suggested. The plugs from cylinders #1 and #3 were also wet and smelled of gasoline. However, when I removed the new plug from cylinder #2, several ounces of coolant poured out of the cylinder, and it continues to slowly drip out with the plug removed. I haven't had to add coolant recently. It is a tad low now, but not by much. The oil on the dipstick looks fine too, but I never ran the engine after the misfire began. Sounds like cracked head or head gasket...bummer. Any way to determine one versus the other without taking the engine apart? I've got a spare car until my son returns from college in June, so replacing the head gasket could be a winter project. However, a replacement engine does not make much sense for this car.

Long time lurker, first time poster. I can usually find everything I need here by searching, but I'm stumped by this problem I'm having... Car is a 2000 C2 with 91k miles, and has run strong with the normal maintenance for the three years that I have owned it. I should also note that in the last year I have replaced plugs, coil packs, MAF sensor, and cleaned the throttle body. Not sure if this is related to my problem, but I was blowing leaves from my driveway last week and also blew them from of the spoiler fins of the car. Anyway, the next morning the car started, but the engine was running very rough with a loud knocking sound. I quickly shut it off and let it sit for a few days until I could take a closer look. The CEL was on and returned the P0302 code. After inspecting the air box and throttle body, I didn't see anything unusual beyond the air filter, so I ruled out any foreign object being blown into the engine from my stupid leaf blowing episode. I fired it up and it was still idling very rough with white smoke coming from the driver's side exhaust. Next, I replaced the coil pack and plug from cylinder #2 (assuming P0302 was denoting a misfire in cylinder 2), but I still had the same issue. Of note, the plug that was removed from cylinder #2 was wet and smelled of gasoline. From this, I assume that it was getting fuel, but not getting a spark. Now, the car won't start at all - it turns over and sputters, but won't idle. Based on my research on this forum, I feel like I've eliminated some of the easy/cheap fixes. Any other suggestions before I have it towed to the dealer? This car is my hobby - I have time, some tools, and a little aptitude. I'd prefer to sort this out myself, but I have a bad feeling about this one. Mike

Try 7281 or 7279 If you have not already read this FAQ - please do so... Lost Radio Code - FAQ, PLEASE READ THIS FIRST It was 7282. Thanks for the help!

Need help with the radio code on my newly purchased 2000 996: CR-220 Type: 4362 24/99 Serial #: 15004912 Thanks in advance, Mike