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RatboneRanch

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About RatboneRanch

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    Contributing Member

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  • From
    Delaware, Ohio
  • Porsche Club
    No
  • Present cars
    914, 911SC, 944, 996
  1. I would not count on a 996 as a daily driver (or really any other high-mileage German car from the last ~20 years). Always have something else to drive just in case. Just this year alone I had two potentially stranding failures (ignition switch and voltage regulator) within a couple hundred miles of each other, and my car only has 37K. Also, being able to DIY is great but that won't save you from high priced replacement parts. And I don't think any non-front engined Porsche is inconspicuous. Mine is silver and someone is always trying to either race or keep me from passing them.
  2. I’m looking at buying a used hard top for my 2002 cabriolet. Other than cosmetics, what should I look for when buying a used hard top? Do I need to make any preparations to the car before installing it? I gather that they came with 2 different generations of connecting hardware and I know there’s supposed to be hardware on the car already (assuming it didn’t come with the hard top delete option). But I’m not sure how to tell if I already have the hardware I need. Also, will I have to adjust the hard top after installing it, and if so, where can I find instructions to do that?
  3. I was trying to remove my taillamp cluster and one of the reverse torx bolts snapped off for some reason. Looks like the other one will, too. I guess I'm now stuck with trying to drill them out. Anyone else ever have this problem?
  4. This afternoon I got the "Warning battery/generator" light on my cluster. I put a meter on the battery and it's 13.5 V at idle but if I rev the engine the dome lights flare, the engine compartment fan flares, the voltmeter on the cluster varies and the climate control shuts down. Somewhere in the dusty recesses of my memory I seem to recall these are symptoms of a bad voltage regulator? The battery is only a year old and is kept on a tender over the winter. The drive belt is only 2 years old. The car has under 37,000 miles.
  5. Thanks for posting that diagram. There are nuts on there I didn't know about so I'll give it another try tonight.
  6. Well, I've been trying as suggested but no matter what I try, there's significant off-centeredness between the eye in the bracket and the threads on the engine. Maybe 3 mm? And my best efforts can only reduce that to maybe 2 mm, not close enough to insert the bolt without it threatening to cross-thread the casting. The pic is blurry due to the close range but it shows the situation accurately.
  7. I just wrapped up a water pump replacement and even though I supported the engine throughout, the small bolt (10 mm head) in the center of the engine mount bracket won't go back in its hole because the hole won't quite line up with the threads on the engine. I spent about 15 minutes fiddling with a jack and tightening the larger 15 mm head nuts in various sequences, which would make the engine shift around a little bit, but the small hole never did line up right. I was wary of jacking on the bottom of the engine too much so I quit. The hole is now covered with tape to keep dirt out. Is this something I can let go for awhile or should I sort this out before I drive again?
  8. Do you read Sports Car Market? They have an attorney on their editorial staff who writes about these things fairly often. Here's on article he did on diminished value. You can search for others. https://www.auctiona...nishing-returns
  9. If the tires are that worn, I wouldn't try to nurse any more miles out of them in a climate like NJ's. Even a summer-only car can get caught in a sudden rain shower, and fast cars on worn tires are dangerous in the wet.
  10. Since 1991, I've had exactly 2 speeding tickets. We won't go into how many tickets I've deserved, but suffice to say that most of my miles have been driven blissfully free of any radar detector. In my experience, a radar detector just gives a false sense of security. You're better off using your wits and common sense (i.e., if you feel like you're driving too **** fast, you probably are.) But if it makes you feel better, use one.
  11. For as long as I've had my 996 cabrio I've had a noise coming from behind my left ear while driving. Kind of a dry, scratchy squeak, like a SKKCH sound, when traveling over bumps. It was there top or up down, windows open or closed. I even searched this forum for ideas, but no luck. I learned to live with it, figuring my chances of actually tracking it down and fixing it were slim. The other day, when the car was parked with the top down, I leaned into it to get something from the center console. As my body weight pressed on the driver's door, I heard the familiar squeak. I pressed against the door a couple of times and was able to reproduce it. Suddenly, it dawned on me. My BMW 3-series makes an annoying noise on bumpy roads, and I've kept it at bay by rubbing silicone grease on the driver's door striker every other month or so. Would that work here? I rubbed some silicone grease on the 996's door striker and tried to reproduce the sound. Silence. To make sure, I took it for a test drive (always looking for an excuse to drive the 996). Sure enough, no noise. It's been a few days now, and it's still quiet. I guess that over the miles, the driver's weight stresses that side of the car and leads to excess flex, creating noise where the door shuts. This explains why both my 996 and my E30 make the sound in the same place. Of course, my 996 has 1/6th the miles my BMW has, but it is a cabrio, so it's naturally less rigid. Anyway, this may help somebody, so I thought I'd post it.
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