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Baconaire

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Everything posted by Baconaire

  1. Just to update. I ground off that 12pt bolt, and wouldn't you know it, there was a bolt on the BACK of the bell housing. luckily I noticed it before going completely nuts. I don't know if its normal but on my 98 986, holding the bell housing to the engine are: 5 12M bolt of differing lengths .50 pitch 1 10M triple squal satanic bolt 1 stud facing the front of the car, with a nut on the other side of the bell, on the bottom My crank side was nice an clean. RMS was recessed but clean. No aparaent leak. But the bell side was caked with greasy, dusty gunk. I used a lot of break cleaner and elbow grease to clean it up. My clutch was indeed down to the rivets so I replaced the Flywheel,clutch disc, throwout plate, throw out bearing, release level and little parts. All of that was very easy. Replaced the tranny lube since it was easy with the trans out. Now my only problem is that when removing and torquing the flywheel, I turned the crank. So getting the bell housing back on is hard and I ran out of time. So I have bought some long M12 bolts, cutoff the heads and will use them as studs to hopefully quide the bell back on. Fingers crossed. I assume turning the crank should have no adverse effects?????
  2. I decided to take a break until spring since I don't have a garage. I did start cutting down the triplesquare bolt and it seems like that would work. Heat didn't work. Hopefully I will be able to remove the bell and show that bolt who's boss. Welding a nut to the shank of the bolt worked great for several header bolts I broke. At the time I wished I did not removed the headers, but once I got in there, there was a lot of carbon in header gasket in what looks like emissions channels. They were all clogged. So at least I was able to clean that up nice and reinstall some new header bolts. I'll keep you all posted. Thanks for the help.
  3. Haven't gotten into the bell housing yet. I don't have a garage and at the end of November called it quits until spring. I do think the PVC parts will work. I'm glad I stopped becuase not being patient and sending the old RMS into the crankcase would be even more trouble. I should be back at it in a few weeks and will report back.
  4. I was assuming as many factory bolts have, they had a blue loctitish coating. I suppose it doesn't matter. The bolt is in there tight and I cannot get a good bite and good leverage on it. I tried the butyl heat to the bolt to no avail. I think my next step is cut the head off. I am assuming that the part of the shank near the head, that passes through the bell housing hole, is not threaded. If I get the bit I ordered fast I'll try once more to get a good bite and heat the block. But I expect my last recourse will be to kill the bolt head without damaging the bell housing, but then I wonder what tool I'll be able to get in those close quarters. 4 1/2 grinder, dremel, and patience. There is just no room there. I'll report back. Thank for the suggestions.
  5. I do have a battery powered impact driver. I recommend this tool as a must for any DIY mechanic. It's just torqey enough to keep me out of trouble. But it is true that there is no room in there for much of any tool. The best I've been able to manage is a 1/2 box wrench and a 12pt bit I had to cut down to fit and welded it to the wrench. But the bit breaks before the bolt breaks loose. I ordered what looks like a better stubby bit and will try the lil torch. It's just hard to get a good bite. If that doesn't work, I'll just break out the cutoff wheel and butcher that bolt to the death. Once I get the bell housing off I'll weld a nut to the nub and use a nice long breaker bar. **** bolt.
  6. I got a 4inch PVC connector and endcap for a couple of bucks. I'll smoot it a little and I can even drill holes in it to use the flywheel bolts to slowly and evenly bring it down. Along with the sleeve that came with seal, it looks like it will work. I will report back if I ever get that triple square bolt loose.
  7. Thanks a lot. I was going to ask if it after heating and cooling the bolt itself, if when I try to break to bolt loose, should I not heat the block. But I think you answerd that. Let me see if I understand what you are saying: Heat the bolt to kill the loctite. Heat the block to expand the sorounding metal while cooling the bolt, then break it loose. Got it. I have one of those little torches and will give it a try. I was concerned that heating a cooling the bolt would weaken it, but now that I think of it that's stupid, becuase that's what it does everytime I drive the car. Thanks a million.
  8. 1998 5spd 986 85k miles I am endeavoring to replace my clutch (and posibbly flywheel and RMS). I broke the car down as instructed to the point of breaking the five bell housing bolts loose. For weeks there has been one bolt between me and progress: that dang 12 pt bolt (triple quare) nestled under the bell housing. (I know whey they used that bolt, there's no room for a regular hex bolt, or any tools for that matter). In any event, I have broken 3 M10 triple square bits from Autozone (they come long and have a 1/2inch shaft, had to cut them short). Lots of PB blaster and carb cleaner in hopes of disolving the locktite. I am now prepared to bust the head of that thing off and once I get the bell housing off, weld a hex nut to it (I used this techinque on two broken header bolts with success). My question is this- does anyone have a better technique? And I am assuming there are no threads in the bell housing, just in the crank case. So if I bust the head off with a chisel, will I have joy and finally be able to remove the bell? If I can get a cutoff whell in there, I'll do that, but I doubt there is room. HELP!
  9. Beautiful. But obviously $. I have the Porshe hardtop and I say go for it! That top is gorgeous. And you can justify that its safer because of better visibilty.
  10. Go for it but be realistic. It's not a good first or 2nd DIY job. I am in the middle of a clutch replacement. Getting to the trans is the hardsest part, so far. You have to drop the exhaust, underbody bracing, cv joints....Expect to take your time. If your car is newer and not rusty, it will be a lot easier. My exhaust was rusty and all the bolts had fused together. So it has been slow going. But you'll learn a lot. If you do this most other jobs are easy. That said $1100 for a clutch is not bad at all. I didn't read the whole post but if you only have a noise, check for a loose spark plug.
  11. I got an RMS from Pelican. Its non-porsche but I trust Pelican. It came with a plastic ring which should help with the instalation. I think I should be able to get it on with patience and I will leave it a little proud of level, I think. If I have to I'll try to find something at home depot, like a pvc pipe of the proper diameter to help. But I haven't cracked the trans yet. Nothing is as easy as it seems. Broke one header bolt on each side. Luckily I have about 3/8 protruding. Once I get those out its back to the clutch.
  12. My clutch is starting to slip so I have assembled the part to replace the clutch, pressure plate etc, Luk FLywheel in case. I also expect to find a leaking RMS as I have a little oil in the right place. I have the RMS seal. I have seen the special tool, but could a DIYer replace the RMS without it? Or am I best just leaving it in place if its not leaking badly? Thanks. I'm studying up for this.
  13. I'm getting ready to replace my clutch on my 98 this weekend. I have an RMS in case. To what do you attribute all the gunk around the intermediate shaft? I would have assumed that was a drip from the RMS. Thanks for the great pics and suggestions.
  14. I don't think its totalled. You need a fender, a bumper cover, a headlight, a radiator and all the brakets clamps and stuff. those parts need painting. Make sure the adjuster looks well beyond the surface and catches every little piece. The hood looks ok, the wheel looks good. You could use salvaged or reconditioned part and save a lot. But if the insurance is paying make sure they use OE and make sure they check the frame, alignment,everything. You don't want the car to look good and drive crooked. But again I think 90% of the car is fine, and the cost of repairs should not exceed the value of the car, unless its a 97 with 300k miles. As far as I can see its not as bad as it looks.
  15. I ordered the Automotion pad backings ($12 for 8) and will report back.
  16. I have, but since I was diggin in, I made it simple and replaced all the components, essentially addressing every eventuality the chart mentions. So the only option I have left within the sec air system iteself is operator error. I suppose my bottom line question is what in the car decides I have secordary air problem in both banks? Is it the precat O2s. And if yes, would I not have other errors as well?
  17. Is there any way to test the O2 sensors? I'm know there's one on each side, pre cat, so its suprising that they would both fail. I see on the Durametric that the two sensors don't always agree, but I'm guessing that's a product of engine pulsing as the Durametric seems to sample every couple of seconds. They do sometimes agree and are within the operating range. Thanks.
  18. I am getting the no uncommon Secondary Air errors (P0410 and P1411) for a while now. 98 2.5 Box 5spd 75k miles, US car, daily driver run year round . Use Durametric ODB to read codes and reset CEL. I have done the following: -Replaced AOS and cleaned the throttle body and air plenum. ! problem persisted -Did have a loose plug at one point but fixed that. (Changed all 6 plugs) ! problem persisted -Replaced ALL of the secondary air components except for the hoses, and the pump. The pump works fine and I did clean the built in filter. The metal check valve that goes to the cylinder heads was very carbony. The change over valve looked ok but I replaced it anyway. Replaced the electronic change over valve, the vacum resivior and the plastic check valve that goes back to the intake. The hoses looked ok but I must admit confusion when trying to put it all back together. But I think I got it back correctly and noticed no problems with the hoses( no clogs or leaks). The pump sounds better and seems to run less but... !problem persists! - Had replaced the MAF 2 years ago (not becase of this) and cleaned it recently. The CEL keeps coming back with the same 2 codes so it impacts both sides. Since the full replacement of eveything this past weekend I have reset the codes 3 times. The pump runs for a shorter time at startup. But it will occassionaly kick in 20 miles into a ride while at stop (engine at running temp of about 180ish) . (Note:taking off the air plenum to access the sec air is a project, not for the faint of heart.) Are there any other things I can look at? Could it be somehow related to the fuel tank and emission things there. I am never able to pump a full tank of gas. At all stations the nozzle clicks at about 7/8 of a tank. I admit I don't fully understand why a vacum acuated valve is used and how it works in the sec air system. I do understand why the system exists and what it does, except for the vacum resivior. On our motorcycles we just remove similar emission systems and its no problem. But they also don't have a computer. Do Boxster racers remove such emissions items? I recently passed emissions test after reseting CEL. Thoughts? Other things to check? Heeeeelp? This is killing me because the car runs fine. Thanks all.
  19. I recently DIY'ed 4 new Zimmerman drilled rotors and used Minitex pads. Bled the system with new Blue fluid. Works well but a get a dang blasted sqealing when applying light brake pressure. I can't target a specific wheel when I'm driving. After a week or two, I removed all 8 pads and greased the back we with copious amounts of high temp brake grease. Cleaned them well with Brake Cleaner. Still squealing. What next? I'm inclided to sand all the pads a mil and perhaps champher the leading and training edges( I don't know why, just a feeling). Any better ideas? It may be normal but I want to get rid of it. By the way I highly ecourage DIY brakes. Its easier and cheaper to replace all 4 with upgraded or OE part then it is to have a shop just replace pads. Porsche made it super easy.
  20. I lost my keyed socket so a dealer was kind enough to remove the 4 lugs and replace them with normal lugs. I just paid for the new plain lugs. The problem is there are many possible sockets, so they may not be thrilled to do it. If you are desperate you might try those damaged bolt sockets that bite into the head. I highly doubt that Gator thing would work because lugs are probably torqued to at least 75ft/lbs. Deal with it now becuase if you get a flat its going to be a pain and get expensive(towing, waiting, dealer...) I preffer to just get rid of them but I'm not in a high crime area.
  21. How old/large is your child? Mine is a 7 year old but is the size of a 10 year old. I use a simple booster(it fits in both trunks) and make sure the seat is all the way back and upright. She is a about three feet away from the dash, so I feel it is safer to have the airbag on then off. I did a lot of reading about disabling airbags a while ago. A rear facing seat with an infant is off course a different story. What I learned is that most of the situations where a child was harmed by an airbag they were not restrained properly or very young and rear facing. Or was simply too close to the airbag (less than a foot). Every parent must make their own call. I do feel that the Boxster is a pretty safe care in its breed. And we both share of love for it.
  22. I have a 98 Box Gray interior. The dash and door panels have the stock pimply synthetic stuff (I assume vinyl). It never looked great, but now it has a few stains and dings. Has anyone tried to DIY recover. I want something that looks like leather but is flexible(so it can be a DIY) and thin(so it can go over existing stuff and still fit). I've seen some new products that look promising. If I were to try it I would probably leave the existing stuff in place and just cover it over with something thin that looks more like leather. Thoughts?
  23. For easy wiring (you'll need a diagram of the existing and new radio's wiring), I put crimped U connectors on the end of new harness, then clipped one finger of the U off. These L-shaped tongs plugged one by one perfectly snug into the existing harness. Tape it all up and you are off. You may need an antenna adapter. You'll need the special tooks to pull the Becker head out. The way I have it wired has worked perfectly for a year and I can take the head out easy if I want to.
  24. 1998 986 5spd 75k miles driven year round in NE as daily driver- At some point soon I will be dropping the exhaust. I got a gently used muffler cheap. And after market headers. I assume the cats and the 02 sensors though fused together, will still have some life left. I have ordered all the bolts, clamps and harware since they are all solid rust. When I have the exhaust apart is there anything I can do to maintain the cats and prolong their life? I have taken to painting rust prone parts with high temp paint(500 degrees or 1200 depending on part), powder coat small ones, or anti rust paint for others. So I figure I will paint the outside of the exhaust parts. But with the cats, can you vacum or wash them out? I assume painting inside is a bad idea. I want to preserve those expensive babies. If anyone has gently used ones they want to get rid of, let me know. Thanks.
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