Baconaire

As you were writting I was test driving after going through the plugs and coils. All is well the blasted tick is gone! Now onto the body work.

Let me add a final follow up. It started with a squeak and after replacing the AOS and going nuts with continued secondary air CELs, and ticking from the engine-Today I retightened all 6 plugs and YAHOO the tick is gone. It all makes sense now. I had replaced the plugs before the winter. One worked loose and loose plug= secondary air leak and noise. So to all that have a squeak, chirp, sqeal, or tick, check your plugs first! Its free. I still advocate frequent cleaning of the throttle bottle and other intake airways and controls but that'a another issue. The one thing I don't get is why a loos plug did not seem to harm performance much if at all. I would think compression would be lost. Anyway thanks to all here who helped. I could not do all my own work w/out Renntech (and a patient wife).

Well its still good that you replaced the AOS anyway and cleaned it up nice. Must be running good.

I replaced my AOS for lack of another solution. The old one looked fine as did the belows. But there was a good amount of oil in the S tube and throttle body. While your at it I would clean the throttle body well, and may as well clean the idle control. I also cleaned the intake plenum but be careful not to lose a rag in the there. Make sure your serpentine belt is not squeaking. Having that break would stink. Also check your pullies and altenator as they could also squeal. My squeak is gone but I can't say for sure if it was the AOS. I now have a mysterious tick that is much like the sqeak. And I have Secondary Air CEL codes. So I'm not sure what's going on. But having been in your position I would definetly replace the AOS. I let my chirp go for a while and I may have fouled the secondary air system (I don't know). Take your time and clean the hose and the whole intake track while your at it. The car will run better when clean.

Going in to valve train , would that require pulling the engine and thus big bucks? Thanks.

I took the stetescope to it again today and I have new info. I recently heard a tick only on the drivers side (left) head area, but now notice I hear it on both fuel rails as well. When I blip the trottle and the engine comes back to idle the ticking stops for a second (very subtle stuff). But that leads me to beleive it may not be a valve train issue. The sound is not so prominent in the tailpipe. I inspected the exhaust thoroghly and found no leaks. The tick is consistent regardless of any variables. I recently replaced the AOS and was having secondary vacum CELS after, which have since stayed away after reset. I bet I contaminated a vacum system parts with oil from the AOS failure. I have been driving for a more the month in this state and the cars runs normally. A mechanic says not to worry but Monday I will visit my mechanic who has a magic ear. I am hoping is it a bad vacum valve or pump. Any ideas are appreciated. Does a 98 Box have an EGR valve?

I have a ticking noise that is absoluetly consistent. It begins with engine startupup and continues in harmony with the speed of the engine constantly regardless of engine temp (usually 180). I just ticks away anoyyingly with the speed of the engine whether in gear or not. Sounds like a small snare drum. I used a stethescope and it is loudest at the left(drivers) engine head. I thought it might be an exhaust leak, but after inspection, I am more concerned it is actually within the top end(cam,lifter,valve). Performance seems ok though maybe not quite as peppy as usual. I drive the car normally. I have to get to work. Before I had the ticking I had a similar squeaking. Replaced the AOS, and cleaned the trottle body, idle control,intake plenum etc. Then I had a consistent CEL and trouble codes for 1-3 and 4-6 secondary air injection not plausible (injection motor is making noise, the good kind). I dbl checked all the connections and the CEL has not come back. So I have this tick that never goes away eminating from the left side of the engine. Doesn't matter if engine is cold or hot, driven recently or not. No current CEL. tick tick tick ahhhhh. Ideas? 98 Box 5Spd 75k miles 0-40 Mobile Syth

You know that little plastic jug that hangs off the air intake tube just as it turns into the throttle body; the muffler aka resonator? Would it not help performance to get rid of it and plug the hole? This way the air would make a smooth run up to the throttle. No?

1998 986 2.5 5 spd 75k miles I've had some squeaking at low RPM and the car seemed a bit sluggish. After checking the throttle body it seems exessive oil was indeed coming from the J tube delivered by the Air Oil Separator. I got an ocassional P0410 and P1411. I also noticed the whine at startup seemed more prominent. I thought that might be the Idle Speed Adjuster which was quite dirty with soot. Since I had all the air plumbing off I decided to vacum and degrease the engine (covering any open holes with tape) and power washing carefully. Then vacum up the water, dry with rags and finally blow awat any last bits of water. I put the throttle body back on but left the AOS disconected and the Idle Ajuster to see if it would spit out any guck. When I tried to start the engine it made a bad sound, clunking, so I put everything back together with the new AOS. I think I made two mistakes-trying to start the engine with the air intake off and the Idle Adjuster plugged in but not bolted on. And pressure washing the engine eventhough I did try to avoid electrical connections. Water bad for electical parts, I know. Car runs fine. After a few minutes it found idle at around 780 RPM. Still a prominent whine on startup (its cold in New England). No CEL but the Durametric shows: "P0341 - Porsche fault code 112 - Camshaft sensor Short to B+ " Long story but what's with the Cam Sensor B+?? Thanks

Did you ever replace the AOS? I have a squealing and in the engine comparment have oil right where your arrow points. I can not see an obvoius culprit from the topside. Haven't taken the wheel off and gone down under. Car runs fine. Thoughts?

So if I had a RMS problem I would see oil there? I am dying to spray some WD40 in there! I don't know why.

I was searching out a squeak and I removed the air intake and noticed these holes. I beleive there are there intentionally. And I'm guessing this is the flywheel or other trans thing. My question is, what is the purpose of the hole? It looks like its inviting some lube. I have a squeak/chrip related to RPM, but could not find it in the engine bay. And now I beleive I hear ticking, but I may be imagining that. No CELs, oil level is fine, changed trans fluid and checked level in the fall. No smoke. Car runs fine though maybe a little sluggish (may be imagination again). Also my clutch squeaks which I've assumed is the throwout bearing. That hole is begging for some LUBE! 98 986 5 spd 77k miles

Hi, I am going to do a full brake job once the weather warms up (rotors and pad). And I'm thinking I may as well freshen up the calipers by poweder coating them (I have a home setup for powder coating). The process ends with baking your parts in an oven at about 400 degrees for 10 minutes. I'm thinking its ok since brakes are made to deal with heat. I would obvously just powder the visible areas .Thoughts?

I just got home and did notice one final resolute chirp at shutdown. So am I right now with out actually getting into the engine compartment, I'm leaning toward the oil separator. It's defintly left rear chirp, loud whether in gear or not. This weekend if the weather cooperates I'll take the car apart and I think I will get the oil separator if I can tomorrow. Now the question becomes, what's a DIY for the Box. I read some 996 posts but no Box. The 996 post sound like its a big pain. Should I just bite the bullet and ship her off to my trustworthy independant mechanic and have him do this and the clutch (which works fine but squeaks also). I plan on doing all my brakes as soon as weather allows. I got the zimmermans drilled rotors and pads ready to go. I'm confident I can handle that though I've never done a break job before. And I need a hood. Like I tell everyone who says 'oooh a porsche', like I'm rich or a snob. I say I can either afford to own the car or pay someone to fix it, not both. I paid less for my box than you did for your new Civic or minivan. So I try to learn to do most of the work myself. So far I've done well but nothing major yet. So of its fun, some frustrating. Sorry to cover so many topics. just haven't been here in while. Thoughts appreciated. Looking to go cheap. See about post for specs.

1998 986 5 speed 77k Miles, Hardtop in Boston area: Recently began hearing a chirp upon startup. At first I figured the starter. But I can also get it to chirp at about 1000RPM to 2000RPM whether in gear or in neutral. It definetly seems tied to engine RPM. Seems like left engine compartment but I could be worng. Car runs fine. I replaced the polyrib belt this past fall. Also replace the coolant trank and was tuggin on the oil fill. But it does sound like a squeaky pulley or something. I have the hardtop on as its winter in NE and I run the car year round. So a little salty rust would not be a suprise. It's not the roof but I have not had the will or time to crack the engine compartment or crawl under the car to investigate. I also have the squeaky clutch noise from the throwout bearing. So far I have done all my own work. But I am thinking I'll let a local mechanic do the clutch and throwout bearing soon since it involves droping the tranny. Eventhough my clutch is fine. I beleive its original. Should I just ball that squeak in with this new one and get it all fixed? Did I mention I'm cheap and a working stiff. I just love my Box. I did read other posts and heard about the oil sperator and the starter. Any thoughts?

IF you're just topping off, water is fine (distilled is best just to be safe). This summer I replaced a rad, flushed the system, and used the yellow jug Prestone. So far its been fine but I haven't been through a winter yet. It said it was compatible with ALL cars. And I figure they'd get in heap of lawsuits by claiming that if it wansn't true. Also its what Autozone has on their system. Again big company, big touble for wrong claims, I figure. Not that I'm naive enough to rely on Prestone, Autozone or Porsche. I'm more apt to trust consensus here. Now to the gents who were discussing phospates and nitrates. I am totally of the mind that buying porshe brand coolant is a scam. But did I pick the wrong Prestone stuff?

That's exactly my thinking-the release lever. The TSB is still missing. The clutch works fine. I just sounds horrific. So I suppose I'll have to live with it until its time for a clutch job. I lubed up the pedal spring real nice with lithium grease. And all I got was a face and sleeve full of grease. And sore ribs. Oh well. At least I can't hear it when the engine is purring.

I shotgunned some silicone up there to no effect. It really sounds like its coming from the belly of the beast. But it could just be so loud it vibrates though the car. I'll try some lithium grease a little more carefully applied and see what happens. Thanks.

Reporting back. I wired the rear speakers to the head and they sound great. I had two options: -4x6 pioneer speakers 4ohm -KLH indoor 3 way speakers-8ohm The pioneers sounded crummy so I'm bringing them back. I got the pair of KLH's for $20 (yes I said $20) at the BestBuy clearance table! They tucked perfectly under the rollbar and really wake the system up. I highly recommend them as a cheap alternative($50 retail @ BB). Wired directly to my new head. Keep in mind I got rid of my soft pizza box long ago. http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?sk...d=1140393393470

I've read all the posts here and I know I'm not the only one with theis problem. My clutch pedeal squeaks, grinds pretty loudy when depressed; like a crunchy spring. I am pretty certain it is predominantly from the tranmissions area. I looked for some kind of accutating linkage expecting to find something to lube but have been unable. 1998, 986, 65k miles, 5 speed. Clutch and shifter work fine. Lubed the shift linkages and that helped smooth shifting a bit. Changed the gear/trans lube this summer. Not much of a change. So the question is what do I do to alleviate the squeak/grind that comes each time I press the clutch pedal? I am certain the sound comes from the rear of the car. Not the pedal. I will check that the gear lube I changed this summer is upto the correct level (11mm from the fill rim). A pic would help a lot. Unfortuanately all of my exploration so far leads me to believe the problem is inside the tranny. Not outside linkages as with the shifter. I know the system is hydraulic. I'm worried that this will not be an easy/cheap fix and may cause premature wear. Thanks.

Thanks. It started to sink in the more I thought about it. I'll try wiring the rears from the head and see how that sounds. Thanks for the clarification. It helped a lot.

Thanks. That makes sense given what I'm experienceing. The only thing I don't get is that when I fade rear I get nothing, zero,nada. It was that way with the Becker and that way with the new head. I'll confirm it on the way home this eve. I do have door speakers. The PNP kit instruction say that if you have the 490 to wire the rears to the new pins on the amp instead of the head. But I'll try running them from the head. Its a 50wx4 plus subs. I don't know if Mosfet means anything. I think it will be fine . Was not expensive, but probably plenty powerful to give me good sound on small speakers. Not looking for audiophile quality. Just want to fill out the sound a bit.

I have a 98 Box with the stock 'premium' 490 Nokia amp. I just replaced the Becker 210 head with a nice but cheap Pioneer unit and the sound is immediately better having the Ipod and Xm direct wired. Now I'd like to add rear speakers to fill out the good sound a bit. On the stock system the fader 'front' would drive the dash and door speakers; all the stock speakers. 'Rear' gave nothing. Same is true with the new head which I sent to the stock amp. Wiring the new head I was able to see the 4 channel/common ground system. And my assumption is that all the stock speakers run on only two of the 4 channels(front left and right). All I want to do is add some rear cheap pioner 4x6inch 4ohm speakers(which should tuck nicely under the roll bar) off the Nokia amp. I've read a lot here and the best I can gather is I should be able to connect to the amp's harness at terminals 4/13(ground) and 12/3(ground) to power the rear speakers. I tried a little test, admittedly the molex connectors I got were not the right size but I though they'd be good enough to test my assumptions before running all the speaker wire for real. No joy. Nothing. I did fiddle with the fader but not a peep. My next step is to pull the head and check my wiring and that the stock rear out was wired, as I think it was. And if that fails just run the rears off the head. But I'd rather run them from the amp, if that's possible. So i guess the question I have is-can the 'premium' stock system 1998 Nokia amp, which seems like its 4 channels, power rear speakers from the amp? If I recall it R/L rear signal from head to amp was wired to the amp, but never left the amp. So what am I missing? As you can tell I'm looking to go cheap and not looking for top notch sound. Thanks for your help.

There's a bunch of tiny bulbs back there. So first you have to get the bulbs. They are like 1.2, 1.5v. I ordered a bunch from pelican. Once you get the bulbs you remove the gauge cluster. There are directions somewhere. You do it by removing the hazard switch, and on the left the little grill round grill thing. It's not too bad. Search for directions.

To lose that much coolant you must have problem real problem. Look for condsation on the trunk hood. That will be a sign of a lose cap. I just replaced a smashed radiator. Drained the system and used Prestone and water. So far so good. It took about a week of driving, checking the overflow(in the trunk), and topping off to get it up to level. So far so good. The label on Prestone say it will work with ANY car. Others here have said they used it with no probs. The red light just means the coolant level is low. It could be just a spash low and blink. The temp guage is the one to watch. If that goes into the red zone, don't drive. In emegency you can turn on the heat to try to flow some hottness away from the engine. But if you run hot you run the risk of killing the engine.