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Philip54
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Everything posted by Philip54
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I confirmed that the level of coolant was correct by removing the cap and checking. I occasionally get to 215F in slow traffic, because of the South Texas heat in the summer. The thermostat has never been replaced, the water pump has (the car has about 125,000 miles). Next week we will be looking for a freon leak in the A/C system and that will be an opportunity to check radiators and radiators fans. I am told that I have the correct coolant.
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Thanks. We'll give it a try.
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Thanks for your reply. Is there any way to test the level sensor or the only option is to replace it and see if the problem goes away?
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The red light on the coolant temperature gauge of my car occasionally (but in recent times more frequently) flashes slowly (0.5 Hz). In a post dated 7/30/2018 Loren listed four conditions for the light to come on. The two conditions for which the light flashes slowly (0.5 Hz) are the following: Engine coolant too low Engine compartment temperature too high None of these conditions applies to my car. The light comes on after about 20 minutes of driving and it seems to be triggered (but not always) by running the engine above 4,500-5,000 RPM (with coolant temperature at normal values and, I assume, engine compartment temperature also at normal values. This is not driving in heavy traffic, this is normal out of town driving ). Using the Porsche tester it was possible to establish that the engine compartment fan works. However, it does not come on when I drive the car in traffic and the coolant temperature gets to 215F. This, I would assume, should cause the engine compartment temperature to become elevated and the fan to run. The engine compartment sensor, located on the passenger side intake manifold, is installed properly and seems to read the temperature of the engine compartment correctly. Any thoughts on what is going on? Thanks
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The refrigerant was low. We put more refrigerant in the system and now the A/C is working again. Next week we'll try to find the leak. Thanks
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When I turn on the air conditioning, everything seems normal, the compressor appears to be working and the fan goes on, but only warm air comes out of the vents. Where should I start to figure out what is wrong? I have Durametric , if that can help. Thanks
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Thanks, Loren.
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I posted again one of the 2 photos attached to my previous post, but unfortunately it is also not readable. In any case none of the photos covers the yellow coolant that makes the vast majority of the coolant that is in the car now. After so many years I cannot tell for sure who provided that yellow coolant, but I am completely sure that the coolant bottles had Porsche labels on them, perhaps counterfeit Porsche labels, but Porsche labels. Per your advice I will get the coolant replaced. Thanks.
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000-043-301-05-M100.pdf I upload the files attached to my previous post one at the time hoping that they will be downloadable.
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Thanks. I got the water pump replaced. That was many years (but not miles!) ago, so the pump should still be ok. It is good to know that all the Porsche coolants are compatible with each other.
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DBJoe996, JFP in PA, Thanks for your replies. The attached photos show the labels on the coolant bottles with the part numbers that I mentioned in my original message. I need to make a correction to what I stated in my original message. Yes, I bought coolant 000-043-301-05-M100 from Pelican, but that was only 1 gallon that I used for topping off the reservoir when needed. I did not buy the coolant that was used for completely replacing the coolant in my car many years ago from Pelican. I bought that likely from Sunset. Unfortunately Sunset told me this morning that their records don’t go back that far, so I don't have a part number, but definitely it was not Pelican, because that purchase is not on Pelican’s records. That coolant was yellow in color. Now most of the coolant in my car is yellow with an unknown Porsche part number and approximately 1 quart of a 50% mixture of water and correct Porsche red coolant. I wonder if the car can be driven or I should replace the coolant immediately. Thanks 000-043-301-05-M100.pdf 000-043-305-15.pdf
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When we replaced the coolant in my car in 2013, we used coolant Porsche part number ‘000-043 -301-05-M100’(pre-mixed). The color, based on a little quantity left in one of the 2013 bottles, was red. The coolant in the car seems yellow now. I have just topped off the coolant today, using Porsche coolant part number ‘000-043 -305 15’, red color (I mixed it with water, 50%). Could somebody please confirm that the 2 coolants are compatible? Thanks
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It was recently brought to my attention that the heads of the wheel lugs in my car are 17 mm instead of 19 mm (factory lugs). Is there any problem with that? Is it possible that also the length of the lugs is not standard? I am going to get rid of the lock keys. Therefore I will need to buy 4 new lugs, if I keep the other 17 mm lugs. Any chances that lugs with same diameter and length, but made by different manufacturers, may have different weights , which would affect the wheel balance? Thanks
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Thanks to All. My door lock has also failed. So the information from toddmac12 is also appreciated!
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I need to replace the driver side window regulator. I have seen that many aftermarket window regulators are available at prices that vary significantly. I was also told that re-built original units can be purchased, but I could not find any online. I would consider both options. Any recommendations? Thanks
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Thanks. I will remove the door panel and have a look at that pin shaft.
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I cannot lock the door any more. The key rotates freely with no resistance. Any suggestions on how to fix the lock? Thanks
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Creekman, thanks for the update. I have not yet had the A/C doors replaced. I have been travelling on business and I have not used the car much. I have gone so far as re-covering the frames of my spare doors with new foam.
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The battery of my car has been disconnected for about 2 weeks. Are there any issues to be expected when I reconnect the battery and start the car again? Also, on one of the electrodes I cannot get the specified torque. The 2 lugs on the wire don't stay parallel. Anything that I can do besides replacing the wire? Thanks
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Thanks, Ahsai. For some reason I had missed Fig.5. I have figured it out now.
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Thanks, Ahsai. But I am not familiar with this alternator and what is on the back side of it. Where is the connection point and what are its shape and approximate dimensions so that I can finalize the geometry of the hook? Thanks
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I would like to do the tests on alternator and cables described in a post of Ahsai on June 25, 2013. Some of the tests involve connecting into the alternator output called ‘A’ in the post. I have trouble in locating ‘A’ on the back side of the alternator using an inspection mirror and I am not sure about how to make a reliable connection into it with the test cable. The post mentions the use of a J shaped hook attached to an insulated wire, but I don't know what the connection point looks like and where it is. I am also concerned about the risk of causing a short. Any suggestions on how I should proceed? Thanks
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Thanks, Ahsai. I guess the back-up battery could still be used to travel a little further, if necessary, if its use does not cause any issues.
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Thanks for your reply. The vendor I was referring to sells jumper cables that include a fuse that are used to charge the car battery for 10 minutes. According to the vendor the car can then be started using the car battery. The vendor does not recommend to start the car directly from the back-up battery. In any case, my question was more related to being able to drive back home, if the alternator fails and the car battery is low, using a back-up battery connected through the cigarette lighter (with minimal electrical load, just the lights, if it is night). Does that seem possible? What would be a fuse size that would ensure sufficient protection? I assume that the car has its own fuse to protect the cigarette lighter cable. Is that correct? Thanks
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I am considering keeping a jump starter portable external battery in the car. I am wondering if this battery could be used, when connected to the car electrical system through the cigarette lighter socket, to power the car electrical system to allow me to drive back home in case the alternator fails and the car battery is low. Vendors claim that the car could even be started using the external battery connected through the cigarette lighter socket. Is there any risk of damaging any car electrical system components doing this? Thanks