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Found 7 results

  1. Hello, I'm looking for a Diagram or Info on routing the throttle cable? Recently had the engine out and upon reinstalling I'm finding the tab where the rear cable section (to engine) connects to the front cable section (to cockpit) doesn't have quite enough slack. If I reassemble correctly it keeps the throttle plate cracked open resulting in a 3000 RPM Idle! LOL I have the Porsche factory PDFs that are floating around but have yet to see the cable routing & adjusting info. Currently I have the cable routed up over the manifolds and down the back next to the trans. Technically its laying on top of both resonance pipes and then drops down the back. Thanks in advance if you can help. - Bill
  2. Okay this is REALLY specific. The adjustable tension cable on the drivers side of my cabriolet disconnected at the top where it threads (8mm) into the top frame, not at the bottom where it snaps onto the ball. The is a larger diameter (10mm?) clean smooth painted hole where the cable needs to thread in, which leads to the presumption that there was a nut on the back side? Searched all over including removing driver's side rear 'door' panel and fishing around with a magnet but no loose nut found. Looks like getting to back side of this frame casting would entail a major disassembly of the cabriolet top frame? Also, what does this clip that goes over hydraulic cylinder do? Right side clips is in place about halfway down length of cylinder. Left side clip was down around the base of the shaft. Replacing it where there appears to be a shiny spot looks like it would interfere with the cabriolet top potentiometer arm. Right cable threaded into frame at top Right cable threaded into frame at top Missing cable location Smooth clean painted hole in top frame where 8mm cable end is supposed to thread in Left cable Left upper cable end with 8mm thread Clip question
  3. Hi all, After 18yrs my convertible top has finally encountered its first issue. After using this forum (thank you!!) to figure out how to access all of the components (top was stuck in closed position), I found the root of my issue, a bad cable. However, as I was very carefully removing the cable from the transmission, the "clip" which is molded into the plastic cover cracked and is no longer functional (see image). Not really surprising on an 18yr old piece of plastic. The transmission works perfectly and I do not want to replace it, so I am looking for advice on any other ways that I can keep the cable properly engaged to the transmission. Please let me know if anyone else has encountered this and if there are any viable solutions. Thank you!
  4. I would like to do the tests on alternator and cables described in a post of Ahsai on June 25, 2013. Some of the tests involve connecting into the alternator output called ‘A’ in the post. I have trouble in locating ‘A’ on the back side of the alternator using an inspection mirror and I am not sure about how to make a reliable connection into it with the test cable. The post mentions the use of a J shaped hook attached to an insulated wire, but I don't know what the connection point looks like and where it is. I am also concerned about the risk of causing a short. Any suggestions on how I should proceed? Thanks
  5. Hello everyone. It's been a while. Found threads on replacing the shifter cable. Thanks to all for that. The cable is new, but now I see that the point where the female end of the cable attaches to, the male end that is on the lever that is on the transmission, is shot to pieces as well. Anyone know how to replace this male end, and the part and number needed? BTW, this is a 2002 996 C4S Coupe. Thanks in advance!
  6. Anyone experienced this scenario? Upon turning ignition key, heard a click, and had no electrical power to anything on car. After opening hood and looking around I grasped the positive battery cable and pulled / jiggled slightly to check connection from where it disappears into the firewall (if you will) area, and all electrical power was restored... car started and everything fine? Next time I went to start car experienced the same scenario. My question is...where, what does positive battery cable connect to that would exhibit these symptoms. Thanks
  7. First of all thanks to Ahsai for the post on the wire and inspection mirror in order to access the rear of the alternator. Same story as many others here, 14v at start up and as the car warms, drops to 13v (with nothing running). Dash volt meter drops to 12v with lights, a/c on, but actually measures 12.7v at jump start post and battery. I replaced the voltage regulator 9 months ago, appeared OK for 3-4 months. During the summer the problem re-occurred. I read many posts on other's problems. When the engine is warm, the voltage drop from the back of the alternator to the +ve post in the engine bay (jump start post ?) is 0.8 volts, obviously way too high. Car is a MY 2000 911 C2. There appears to be 2 different harness images posted from the various discussions, so I'm trying to figure out am do I need to replace the Y cable #28 or #21 from the respective images. Also how difficult is this after the alternator is back out? Hoping not as bad as Equinox 997 post. Is it the same as Ahasi's description in this link? http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/44682-how-do-i-replace-the-cable-from-the-alternator-to-the-starter/ Thanks Mark
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