martialmedia

Right now, it really seems to be connected to cold start. It happens the first time I start the car for the day. Today for example, after starting the car this morning, after about 30 seconds, the stereo turns off and back on. The bass and treble reset to 0 and it plays the radio station that is set to the #1 setting. It actually reset twice today, once about 20-30 seconds after starting the car and then again about 20-30 secs after that. The car is just sitting in the garage, not moving. It didn't do it again for the rest of the day. It will do it with or without the AC running. I think the next step is to time it to see if it happens at about the same time frame every day. If it does, I think it will be somewhat safe to assume that the problem is with the stereo. What do you think? Thanks again for your input.

Well I'm not really sure if it did it before. I replaced the switch just a few days after I bought the car. It wouldn't return to center once the car started, so I knew it was shot before I bought it. I haven't removed the radio. I will try checking the wires and the connection to the switch. Maybe something isn't seated well. I may just buy another switch and see if this was just a bad one. It only took about 30 minutes to replace anyway and you can buy the switch online for about $15.00. One thing to add, I did notice that I hit a big pothole the other day and it reset then as well. I think its time to do some wire jiggling in there. :) Thanks for your input.

Anyone? Class? Buuuueeeeller?

Well, I did the oil change a couple of weeks ago and I think it is safe to say that the issue was resolved. Imagine that! I wish they were all that easy. I used Castrol 5w-40.

I have a 2003 Boxster S 44,000 mi. I have the CDR23 stereo. On cold starts in the morning, the stereo will "reset" after about 1 minute. The stereo will go off then on to FM and the bass and treble setting will all go back to 0. The radio stations keep their settings. It usually happens after the first time you start it although it has happened at other times just occasionally. I recently changed the ignition switch so it shouldn't be that. Any ideas? I'm at a loss. Ground maybe??

So I guess it was bad that I was smoking while I did it?? :) I'm kidding. I took it outside. It was the only thing that seemed to work. My CV's have never been cleaner.

If there isn't a dealer nearby, try NAPA. I found it at a local NAPA Auto parts store. I wouldn't risk it either.

I have a 2003 S and I just removed, repacked, rebooted and re-installed my two half axles. It took me much longer than 3 hrs. More like 2 days, but I took my time and really cleaned the CVs out. Make sure you mark the Cams and clean the bolts that go into the transmission well so the lock-tite will stick.

Sounds easy enough to me. I'll give it a shot. Nothing to lose right. I'll post how it turns out.

Really? A valve lifter would be that loud? I am using 0W-40. Come to think of it, it did start after an oil change. Does 5W make that much difference? I guess it's just a little thicker so they don't bleed down as much?

Memo.mp3 Aaaahhaaaa!!! I finally caught the sound. Drum roll please..........

Just to give an update, I tried carb cleaner but it didn't dissolve the grease. I ended up just using gas. It dissolved the grease and left a nice layer of sand in the pan. Better in the pan I was cleaning with than the joint. It worked like a charm.

I had to replace 4 CV boots on my 2003 Boxster S. Wow! What a job it's turned into. The wheel end of one has a lot of dirt in it. I can hear it crunching around. I have cleaned out as much of the old grease as I can, but It needs to be really cleaned. This end is press fitted together, so I can't really take it apart to clean it. I was thinking of using spray carb cleaner. Will this work? Does anyone have any better ideas on how to get this baby cleaned out. Dipping it in and out of a can of gas maybe?? If I don't clean it, it will be toast. For now it seems to still be in good shape. I caught it early enough.

Ha ha. Yeah setting off the airbag might be a violent surprise. I am about to rebuild it with just 2 resistors. I think I will add one of these key switches somewhere rather than just having a box under the seat. http://parts.digikey.com/1/parts/977524-sw...ckm12atw01.html This way it can't get accidentally turned on or off. Now if I can just figure out the best place to put the switch. I will post an update when it is done.

Very clever. I like it. What was the resistance of the two resistors you used. I just used what Radio Shack had and had to chain them together to get the right resistance. I would like to shrink it if I run it to the dash or console.

Tell me more about this switch. How did you hook a switch to the compartment lock? That's an interesting idea.

Here is a little tutorial that shows the construction and installation of a passenger side airbag deactivation switch that I built for my 2003 Bosxter S. Keep in mind that I am simply documenting a modification that I chose to make to my Boxster. I in no way encourage anyone to do the same. This mod has not been tested in an actual collision and is not approved by Porsche. If you choose to do this mod you do it at your own risk. Now that all being said, I will start by directing you to this post which covers some aspects of this and shows a schematic that I used to create this box. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...pic=9658&hl The problem I had was that I don't have an infant, I have a 7 yr old. I don't need a child seat and I think the bar method is just sloppy. I don't know why Porsche didn't install a switch, so I did it for them. :) This switch basically mimicks the output of the Porsche buckle system into a convenient switch. Essentially, when the switch is on, it puts 2.280K resistance which is the same as the bar being in the car without the buckle inserted. This tells the system that it has a device installed, but it is not in use. In this case, the computer keeps the airbag activated. When the switch is off, it reduces the resistance to approx 255 ohms, which is the same as the bar being in the car with the buckle inserted. This tells the system that it has a device installed and that it is in use. In this case the computer deactivates the airbag. Using the schematic, I built this box. There are 2 strings of resistance: One which totals 255 ohms and one that totals 2025 ohms. The switch bypasses the 2025ohm section. Here is an image showing the electrical path when the switch is closed. When it's closed it allows the current to pass through and bypass the 2025ohm path. Here is an image showing the electrical path when the switch is open. When the switch is open the current has to go through the 2025ohm section to exit, making the total resistance approx 2280ohms. Here are the reading you should be getting out of the unit. This image shows the reading when the switch is in the "off" position which tells the system to turn off the airbag. This image shows the reading when the switch is in the "on" position which tells the system to turn on the airbag. I spliced a simple connector into the wire and behind the connector for the Porsche deactivation bar which is located under the passenger seat. This makes it tidy and easy to remove later if you choose. Here it is installed. A couple of notes: 1) The switch I chose allows you to connect it so that either "On" or "Off" can open or close the switch. This is important to watch and decide how you want to set it up. I choose to view it as an airbag de-activator, so I set it so that the switch in the "On" position actually sends the resistance to tell the computer to keep the airbag on which is the full 2280ohms. You could set it to the opposite if you wanted to view the switch as activating the de-activator. I hope that didn't get confusing. 2) Once installed, the switch will not turn off the airbag and the airbag warning light will come on until a dealer plugs into the computer with a PST2 to tell the system that a device exists. Once this is done, you should be able to flip the switch and the airbag warning light will flash for 60 secs to let you know that the airbag is deactivated. This switch will not work until it is enabled in the computer with a PST2. This is the same as the Porsche child restraint bar. 3) I plan to modify this so that I can run it to an actual Porsche switch in place of one of the blanks in the dash. I would like one with a red light to show that the airbag is off. This is my first contribution, hopefully you will find it interesting at least. It only costs about $20.00 total and is very convenient. My dealer didn't charge me for the programming.

Interesting, My car has the same issue... I havent checked the power steering fluid yet but ill do it tonight. Does anyone have any insight as to what adding power steering fluid would change to correct this issue? Respectfully, Ben Actually, it's back so it didn't actually fix it. Dang! It just happens occasionally and every time I try to record it, it doesn't happen. I am guessing it is the starter sticking occasionally and not pulling back quickly enough.

Yep. Sounds like the alternator.

Is there someone in Dallas/Plano Tx that has a PST2? I need to tell a 2003 Boxster S that there is a child restraint system in the car. I can't really seem to find a mechanic that seems interested. Times must be good for them. One guy wants $100.00, but I need to bring it today, and pick it up Monday. Geeesh.

Well..... I think I figured this out, so I thought I'd update the post just in case someone else has this issue. I checked my power steering fluid a few days ago and found that it was very low. I added fluid and the sound on start up hasn't come back since. Imagine that.

If you have fire, it sounds like you need fuel. Do you know that the fuel pump is working and that the injectors are spraying fuel?

Yes it was. I had to lift it on the back driver side to run a bleeder hose through the round end of the wrench and attach it to the clutch valve. Then go up top and lay across the back of the car so i could reach back there and turn the wrench. It took me an hour of staring at it to figure out a plan. It was a REAL pain, but it's done. A good feeling. How would you damage the master cylinder seals, pumping to hard?

Ha. I don't actually work for the company or anything. I guess it probably looks like a spam posting or something. I just thought some might be interested. Here is where I got them. http://www.speedbleeder.com/ You just unscrew the old ones and screw these in. It's very easy. They only cost like $7.00 ea. Makes bleeding brakes very fast and easy.

Here is a photo of the exhaust for anyone interested. There is another hole about 2 inches from that one. You cant see it in the photo. I will probably add a third. I don't want it to sound like a Honda for goodness sakes. ha. This appears to be an interesting mod (good result, costs nothing). Has anyone learned if it has any neg effect on the exhaust flow etc that can goof up power, etc?? My 2.7 is kinda quiet, but I don't want to take the chance of sounding "honda" or toooo loud either. There must be some write up on this mod somewhere, but I've been reading this forum (and others) for 2 yrs and this is the first time I've heard of the mod. Thanks, Bob I had found this mod on another forum, I don't remember where and there were quite a few people that had done it. From what everyone else had said, it doesn't adversely effect the engine. I haven't noticed any issues. When I did it, I was like you, I wanted some sound, but I didn't want it to sound like it had a fart can on it. Ha. I thought that if I didn't like it, I could always seal the holes with some JB Weld. I'd say it sounds great. It gives it a little more low end rumble, but doesn't really make it much louder. It's not as loud as a high performance exhaust. Desnorkeling it added more sound I think than the exhaust.