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a99C4tip last won the day on February 21

a99C4tip had the most liked content!

About a99C4tip

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  • From
    Wilmette, Illinois
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    2000 Boxster Base; 2000 Boxster S
  • Former cars
    944s, 911, 964s, 993, 996

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  1. I was able to retrofit a spare wheel with jack and took kit from an older Boxster (986) into my 2007 Cayman (987.1). Clears front lid without touching. Takes up some of the space but I prefer spare and regular tires as opposed to run flat tires.
  2. Isn’t there a vacuum line with valve on it Boxster driver’s (US) that ticks now and then and sounds exactly like a lifter? I have picture of it somewhere. Drove me nuts.
  3. Try these guys ErikssonIndustries.com in CT 800-388-4418 I've used them and was happy with prices and service.
  4. Hey Bronco: I've used ErikssonIndustries.com in CT 800-388-4418 and was happy with prices and service. I have no affiliation, etc so all disclaimers apply. Good luck with your project. JC
  5. I've replaced the antenna booster with no luck. Same bad reception with a bunch of static and hardly any stations. My suspicion is that the wire from the windshield connects to female plug. As speculation goes, the windshield was replaced and the installed probably pulled on the old wire but never bothered to look where where the new wire connects in the A pillar. So...does anyone know which panels to take off to access the bottom of the windshield on the passenger side in hope of finding the antenna wire? Defrost cover? Glove box? BTW I tried using a digital inspection camera without any luck.
  6. I have a 2007 Cayman Base with CDR 24 radio which has very poor reception. The suspected culprit is the antenna booster located on the passenger side A pillar under the plastic trim piece. The female plug (see image) does not have a wire running to it. The male plug has a constant supply of 12 volts. I suspect that the booster burned out but the empty plug has me wondering. Anyone familiar with this booster wiring to know one way or the other? Thanks, JC
  7. lkchris I had a Boxster hardtop painted as the one I purchased was scratched and damaged leaving no choice but to paint. Here is what I did - 1) remove the headliner and all of the seals that are on the interior of the hardtop inside the car, including large rubber seal you described; 2) remove the two top exterior strips running front to back. The retaining clips are plastic and will crack so order new ones; 3) I did not remove rear window or seal. Instead, I purchased roughly 5 feet of 3/16 diameter stranded (flexible) electrical wire and tucked it all the way around and under the lip of the rear window seal. This lifted the rubber seal and created enough room for the body shop sprayer to reach under the seal so that when I removed the electrical wire there was no visible paint line and it looks factory paint; 4) I put top on car without any seals and took it to the shop to paint. With no seals in place, the shop had plenty of gaps to completely paint the top and the result is fantastic. BTW I had them bondo and paint the "ears" as my top was the older style roof rack system setup, which I will never use. Hope this gives you some ideas. John
  8. mikesz upon closer look, you might be referring to number 5, see diagram. There are different part numbers for the 03-04 cars. My bumper did not come with these supports. Now you got me going. John
  9. I recently upgraded my 2000 Boxster rear bumper to the 2003-2004 look. Here is a picture of the bumper I bought with the diffuser The parts catalog does not show the 2003-2004 bumper but does differentiate the parts by the model year. The only part that I am aware of that attaches to the bumper is the heat protection above the muffler tip. It is part number 38 in this diagram and part number 986 505 811 02 for the 2003-2004 bumpers
  10. Yes, you are right Jeff. Something about fuel vapors being burned off. When bad causes a nerve wrecking tick. BTW Thanks for always being there and helping out! John
  11. This may have been covered elsewhere but I could not easily find the answer with the search function. The replacement motor, when warm, would develop what I would call a lifter tick for lack of a better word. The tick was on bank 2, cylinders 4-6 and most pronounced on 2. It was fairly loud and could be heard inside and outside of the car. Noise was most prevalent at idle and up to 2000 rpm. It would go away above 2,000 rpm with throttle. The car also had a very, very slight misfire. After much research and reading, I located the culprit. It is basically a vacuum leak. The noise was coming from some sort of a purge valve located under the manifold. Some have even removed valve cover and replaced lifters only to have the ticking there on re-assembly. Here is a picture. It is a PITA to get to and remove. Part number 996-110-129-05 Sometimes this purge valve goes bad with another purge valve, part number 996-605-213-01. This one is located under the gas cap and will cause a sucking "moose call" sound.
  12. Update: Got the replacement engine in several weeks ago and have been chasing what I will call a lifter tick... more on the solution later. The original motor spun a bearing on rod 1 and the piston was coming in contact with the head. Here are some photos Milkshake from intermix Sludge in oil pan from intermix Piston Contact Head Contact Spun Bearing Rod 1 Crank - Not too bad. Off to machine shop to see if it can be saved
  13. Probably gasket material, which was liberally applied and ended up inside motor. If there is a lot, some of it may be blocking your oil pick up. The only way to find out is to remove the oil pan, check and remove.
  14. Pulled motor and trans as a unit since its a tiptronic. Felt more comfortable removing rear suspension. The car did not have to be raised as high to remove motor. Pulled IMS bearing and it was intact. The bearing was original and seals were in place. Removed one seal and there was no lube and no oil in bearing. Just some moisture of oil or vapors. These bearings must have the ability to run on a lick of oil. No oil in shaft. Feel better about the product having handled the IMS bearing. Found milkshake like substance in the intake so Im looking at a crack in one of the heads.
  15. As I contemplate the engine drop/swap, I believe I figured out what doomed my motor. After buying the car, I changed the oil and filter at my earliest opportunity. I read online that we should change oil every 5,000 miles and filters every 2,500. When I pulled the filter, I noticed that the filter canister was missing the metallic bypass at the bottom so I purchased one off eBay. My understanding is that the bypass is there so that if the filter gets clogged the engine still gets lubrication. I do not know how long or why it was missing. Without it, the oil essentially was not filtered pumping all of the junk from the bottom of the sump to the IMSB and journals. To make matters worse, as I replaced the spark plugs and the spark plug tube seals, as I typically do, I noticed that the tubes had traces of what appeared to be a sludgy substance stuck them. I have had several of these cars and this is the first one where the tubes had the sludge on them. Here is a picture of the bypass, hard to see but its there.
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