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jchapura

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About jchapura

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    DFW
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    2005 Carrera S

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  1. Thanks Loren. The grommet is holding the sensor ok in its natural position. I check it quite often since my fan being on really gets my attention. I was thinking of 1) reversing the sensor position or 2) insulating the sensor tip. All in the hope of delaying the fan start to its design value. Is it possible another temp sender (oil, coolant?) is broken that is part of the purge fan control logic?
  2. 2005 C2S about 80000 miles What are the possible causes for the engine compartment purge fan to come on early? The old sensor exhibited the same thing. The new sensor is about a month old. I was checking the cam deviations with my Durametric and I noticed the fan come on only after about 5-10 minutes after the engine had started up (from a true cold start). The ambient temperature was about 55 degF. The Durametric showed the engine compartment temperature about 41-44 degC (much cooler than I thought was supposed to kick on the fan).
  3. Thanks John. After warm-up: Camshaft deviation, bank 1 -0.9844 Camshaft deviation, bank 2 -0.4219 Rock steady, no jumping around at idle nor 2700 RPM. What do you think?
  4. If it is, is it more troubling if it seemingly cropped up over the span of a single oil change interval? Am I on a "deadline" now? Are the chain ramp replacements considered a DIY job without removing the engine? Special tools needed? Other considerations?
  5. I used a wash bottle with lacquer thinner and washed about 1/2 the medium's debris into a clean glass container. Decanted it once. Washed it again. Decanted it. Let the solvent evaporate a little bit and scooped a couple of screwdriver tip's worth onto a clean paper towel. It was still a little wet as you can see by the staining on the paper towel. Picture is attached. The clumps are easily pulverized. The color is brown-reddish-brown. PS: I think I'll get the Durametric out and measure the cam (angle) deviations...
  6. Changed my oil today. 2005 C2S with about 80000 miles. Been using DT40 for a few years. About 3300 miles (1.5 years; car was laid up about a year) on this oil change. Opened the oil filter case to inspect the oil filter medium. Saw a lot of fine black (oil soaked, of course) powder in the creases of the filter medium. Non-ferrous (wouldn't stick to magnet, other than due to oil acting as "adhesive"). More than I've seen in the past. I've attached two pics here. What do you think? Source? Cause for alarm? Needs immediate diagnosis/correction?
  7. Yes. I've replaced mine twice in the four years I've owned mine. Same symptoms as you. Easy R&R.
  8. Excessive crankcase vacuum is definitely a symptom of the AOS having failed. A couple of years ago, I made a homebrew manometer and captured the "inches of water" value. After the AOS failed, but I hadn't yet fully confirmed it was the AOS, I hooked up the manometer, and lickety-split, every inch of that water got sucked into the crankcase. I should have guessed that would happen but I stood there dumbfounded for a second then shut 'er down. Drained the oil. Replaced the AOS. Warmed up the car. Drained the oil again. A $120 for the extra oil change. Ugh.
  9. I'm not sure this will help... When I had the original side markers, I never had an issue with sporadic "check" messages. For a couple years I've had LED replacements and about once a quarter I get a check message (on the right side) after hitting a rough patch of road. It has always resolved itself (I never had to fiddle with the fixture).
  10. I'm surprised that the failed AOS caused the low pressure warning. I hadn't read that low oil pressure was a consequence and I've had a failure while driving and I had normal oil pressure for the balance of the short journey home.
  11. I think the oil "spread" is too wide for the photos to help us. I think you need to clean off the area (even with a degreaser like brake cleaner aerosol) and then begin your vigil to watch for the first signs of the smallest amounts of dripping or seepage, etc.
  12. They are not electrically controlled shocks. No wire. With the Ohlins, one can buy a black box that simulates the PASM part of the shock rather than having it coded out. It's just to fake-out the computer.
  13. Howdy Koenbro, I have a 2005 C2S. I noticed some drive-ability problems when there was ponding on the road (and maybe some dry weather "bouncy-ness"). I took it to a well known independent and he put it up in the air. Tire wear wasn't bad because I took most of the camber out about a year earlier but he said it probably had excessive toe-in and that should be eliminated and the camber put back. (You'll never get the same wear life out of the rears compared to the fronts). But...the most important thing was the rear shocks - he said he could lift the wheel assembly a few inches and if the setup was new/not worn, he should not be able to (by hand). I swear I had tried the four corner "bounce" test and the body settled in what I thought was a normal amount of rebounds. I guess the hand bounce test just doesn't cut it. So, I thought about Bilsteins to retain the PASM. I'm going with Ohlins R&Ts (Mostly because there was an availability problem with almost all Bilsteins for my car). I'll "code out" the PASM. I'm in the middle of the retrofit. Shocks do wear out. Some say they're either good or bad. And they are only bad when they are leaking. Good or bad (binary) - has just not been my experience with any car I've owned (and my C2S's were not leaking). Even Ohlins recommends a rebuild after 20-30k miles on the top notch shocks. These things wear out. Especially things sliding past one another. Some say 50k miles is at the upper end of the useful life for a shock. I think you could probably adjust/stiffen your existing PASM shocks with the DSC Sport Controller module. That's another option to consider. John
  14. Do what JFP says and... I think that if the oil pressure gauge is showing any non-zero value when the engine is not spinning and electrical system energized, it makes the oil pressure sender suspect. It should read zero. The sender is easy to change and not too expensive; it's on the passenger side of the engine, on the top side above the head, and about half way back; it looks like a typical oil pressure sender. Pretty sure you'll want to do it when the engine is cold.
  15. If you are referring to the black area near/below the shoulder - it is a marking from during my disassembly process.
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